I put a used AOD in my 1981 F 100. The throttle valve seems to be binding up even with the linkage disconnected. There is no pressure on the TV port. The truck will move in all gear positions, but it will not shift.
View 3 Replies1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
View 1 RepliesMy truck has developed a bad habit when it is cold (as in outside air below freezing and engine cold): The accelerator pump arm rubs against the throttle arm hard enough to bind the throttle partially open (NEVER a good situation!). I've removed the carb and verified that everything "looks" right:
1) The throttle shaft is in the right location and doesn't have any side to side movement.
2) The accelerator pump arm pivot is straight
3) The accelerator pump arm is straight (It's design makes it a bit difficult to just "bend" the arm side to side and I shouldn't have to do that anyway...)
4) The throttle arm is straight
After taking the arm off and straightening it out (repairing my attempts at a "field" repair...), verifying the linkage and then reinstalling and adjusting the AP, everything was working perfectly on the bench (kitchen table...), so I went ahead and reinstalled the carb (always fun at 10:30pm when it is 7F outside and the freaking wind is blowing at 30mph!).
By the time I got everything bolted down and hooked back up, the carb had cooled off a LOT, and the linkage was once more binding. I have no doubt that if I bring it in and let it warm back up, it will work perfectly.
So, what could be the problem? Do I just need to say the heck with it and hit the side of that lever with a file to get the cold clearance it just doesn't have? I can't imagine that this is a common problem with Holley 4160 carbs...
I have a 1974 ford f100
302
fmx transmission 14 bolt pan
tag off of transmission (not sure if this tells you anything)
The problem: the selector shaft is leaking
What I need: a replacement seal - part number or where to buy
Also, when I remove the valve body to replace the seal will there be any hidden BB's, springs or any other things come flying out that i need to keep an eye on. Valve body torque specs would be fantastic.
Well it seems the transmissions POOCHED. It feels like its binding especially in reverse, and makes a whining sound in park/neutral. I guess, I will take it to the trans shop tomorrow and hope for the best....
View 7 RepliesI bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 Impreza 2.5i manual transmission makes a clunking binding when I turn. What the issue is it goes away and comes back.
View 1 RepliesI'm attempting to adjust the TV cable on my 92 gtz V6 3sp auto as it is shifting late...I have found the following instructions (which seem simple enough):
Step 1 Stop engine.
Step 2 TBI equipped models, Remove air cleaner assembly.
Step 3 Push and hold down the metal readjusting tab at the engine end of the cable.
Step 4 While holding the tab down, move the slider until it stops against the fitting.
Step 5 Release adjustment tab.
Step 6 Rotate the throttle lever to the wide-open position, cable will come back and automatically readjust itself.
However, I don't know what I'm doing or better yet, looking at when I am trying to do this..I see the throttle, the cable, can move the throttle to wide open but what I'm not seeing/recognizing on the throttle mechanism is:
1. The metal adjusting tab at the engine end of the cable
2. The slider
3. The fitting the slider is supposed to butt up against
how to properly adjust the cable and have come up blank.
About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
Car is 2000 Corolla with 60k miles that sometimes has a low idle (sometimes) when driven for the first 15 minutes early morning. Especially when accessories turn on, the RPM drop suddenly to 600 and recovers to 623 then back to 650rpm. After 15 minutes, everything works fine (normal 650 rpm)....my guess is the IAC Valve/throttle body needs cleaning.
What exactly do I need to tell me mechanic? That both the IAC Valve and throttle body needs to be clean? Also, after "cleaning it using a spray"....should he wait till the "spray dissipates"? What happens if it goes inside the engine?
Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
VW Jetta SE 2.5L... Took my car to the dealer for a check engine light, the code came back P0106 which states I need my throttle valve cleaned and the dealer also said I need my brake vacuum pump replaced.. Do these go hand in hand? How should I proceed with the dealer? I have only 60,000 miles on my vehicle was there a recall on this issue? The dealer already updated the software in the technical bulletin.
View 2 RepliesLooking for a pic or diagram or able to explain it well, of how the valve body engages the shift linkage/kickdown on a c6. I need a pic of the actual valve body itself and how it engages INSIDE the pan NOT externally.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 Expy 5.4 with AWD. The issue is when in Drive it is only in 1st. I can manually shift it to 2nd. If I get it up to 40 and shift it back to drive it just reeves if I am going 30 and do that it throws it back in 1st.
So I searched a lot of the forums, I asked the previous owner some questions. Been 80 to 90k since the last tranny fluid change. Said he tighten the shift cable when it first noticed it was not shifting right and then it started to shift hard (squeal the tires). I ordered a rebuilt valve body assembly, came with plate, solenoid, accumulator and valve body. The supplier indicated this was the fix for my symptoms.
I dropped the pan. A bolt from the solenoid was in the pan. No magnet. The oil smelled more like axle grease, but did not really see signs of metal sludge in the pan or filter. Dropped all the components, yeah that accumulator plate is not for the faint of heart, I found all the rubber fortunately.
I found a couple decent pictures showing where they go in the tranny, the plate pictures were missing to many of the 'other' holes to use that as a guide. I saw a comment to use petroleum jelly to hold in place, I used that trick and it seemed to work. Put everything back together, torqued all the valve body nuts and bolts to 8 ft lbs, figure that is approx. 96 inch lbs and in the 80 -100 recommendation, new filter. Added 8 qts of oil back into the pan.
With it still on the stands started it up and went thru the gears down and up stopping in each one. Set it down and went for a test drive. Same exact behavior. Drive is first, can manually upshift to 2nd, put back in Drive at a slow speed and it goes to first, at a high speed it acts like it is in neutral. What I missed, do I have a clutch problem, or ?????
So my 92 4.0 automatic has always been kind of a slug since we've bought it with 101,000 miles on it. It's been tuned properly and fuel pump, filter, and regulator been replaced. It runs pretty good but when you're going highway speed or even like 45-50 and stomp the gas it doesn't feel as if it's downshifting. The transmission looks like it may have been replaced or maintained, it shifts good, pulls good. Fluid is clear and clean, no leaks, no burning. I see that it has a vacuum modulator valve but don't know where it hooks up to. I can barely see it behind my catalytic converter. It will have to be removed to change it for sure. But I'm trying to see where the vacuum line goes from that modulator valve. I see the valve but I didn't really notice a vacuum hose coming off of it but again my view was obstructed by the catalytic converter. Would it cause hesitation problems if it was bad or not even hooked up?
View 1 RepliesThis car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
View 4 RepliesI got this 1981 ford fairmont wagon for free. From this elderly lady it was her husband.he bought used in 1983 it had 73,000 on it Iook like it been kept in garage real clean looking the mileage now on it is 34,154. I am guessing she has over 200,000 on her.The problem I am having is the fuel gauge won't move.is there a fuse for it or do you think the sender is bad. I can not find a sender any where...
View 2 RepliesWhy does my C6 shift at 4000 RPM when the throttle is open? My motor produces peak torque at 5000 RPM, and peak HP at 6500 RPM.
I would like to have the lower gear until I exceed the peak torque at least.
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 with 308657 miles on it. After changing the trans fluid, filter and checking the center support bolts for proper torque I'm still having the same problem as before. When put in drive it doesn't seem to want to pull itself much until I throttle up to 1500rpm or so, then it grabs and goes. It acts similar in reverse but the rpms aren't as high. There was a coating of something inside the pan and on most of the parts along with the magnet being covered. What to look at to narrow down my problem?
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