Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1981 F100 Pulls To The Right After Alignment?
Jun 15, 2012
1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
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I and a friend are working on a 58 f100 and want to get a "new" or rebuilt steering box. Where do we find one and what is the part number for one?
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I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
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I have a 74 f100 4x4 with manual steering I would like to convert it over to power steering but every power gear box I have found the holes are in a different spot than the manual box is there anything out there that will match up or will I have to weld a plate on and drill new holes...
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I would like to add power steering to the truck. What I need to do and what parts are required. Could a 65F100 come from the factory with power steering?
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I have a '58 F-100 4x4 with the Spicer model 24 divorced transfercase. The front end is out of a '64/'65 F-100.
It looks to me like the front axle has shifted forward and is tilted down. The shock mount are not even close to lining up in a manner that would allow shocks to be attached. It also looks to me like someone removed a leaf from both sides.
I already know the steering box needs to be rebuilt. What else is wrong....and how do I fix it?
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I put a used AOD in my 1981 F 100. The throttle valve seems to be binding up even with the linkage disconnected. There is no pressure on the TV port. The truck will move in all gear positions, but it will not shift.
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
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It's an 08 Ford F-150. 4x4... Truck was pulling hard to the right. Took it in and got the alignment done, they told me front right was worn and would still pull slight right. When I drove it, still pulled just as hard. Took it back and had tires rotated, they test drove it multiple times and made small adjustments then told me it was good to go. Drove to work today and still pulling. Not quite as bad but definitely more than a slight pull. What's my next step? What else could cause this?
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I got my alignment done today and everyone went into factory specs but the front camber. Both the front left and right are at 1.0. But the thing is that the car pulls to the right and I have to turn the wheel a little to the left to compensate
I have a tanabe spring install with 20x9.0 in the front with nitto 555 245/35/20. And 10.5 with 275/30/20 in the rear.
Do your cars pull to the right? Will the tires wear wrong? The car was back into specs except the cAmber in front.
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I started noticing about a year ago that when I drive my car, it pull to the right. This occurs at any speed. Every time I've gone in for service, I've asked them about this and multiple customer service reps have basically said "that's how this type of car drives". I've had them actually check the alignment as well, and only a couple of times have they had to adjust it, but it still seems to pull towards the right.
Driving a 2014 Lexus IS F Sport.
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So I had a flat a couple weeks ago, finally got around to patching it (professionally) and decided to get a wheel alignment and tire rotation at the same time. No prior problems whatsoever (drove straight as an arrow) but roads in Hawaii suck so I decided to have it done while my car was in. Got my Camry back and it pulled to the right, with the steering wheel a little crooked to the right too. Talk about leaving something well enough alone, which is what I should have done!
Tried to take it back the next day, but they were super busy so I went to another location (same chain) and they said they suspect it could be my tires, but if not, they'll realign. They ended up doing the alignment again. My car pulls less but the steering wheel is crooked to the LEFT instead of right now when driving straight.
Question: Do you think it could be the patched tire? The nail was 1-.1.5" from the sidewall. This tire is on the right rear. Looks fine, and was fine up until I got a nail in it. Right front tire looks fine too.
I asked my mechanic, along with my cousin who worked with cars and did alignments himself in a past life, and they both told me they don't think it's my tire(s). They both told me to take it back and have the alignment redone.
Is it possible to just have two bad alignments at two different locations with two different techs?? The chain I'm going to is locally owned and has been around forever, and my last alignment was from them so I don't know what's going on this time.
* I have Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires all around, with about 20K miles on them.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited (2 wheel drive) that pulls to the left a little while driving.
Before taking it in for an alignment, need to know whether or not both the front toe and the camber are adjustable on this vehicle?
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My 09 lancer pulls to the left even after alignment what are some of the reason its still pulling and when i apply the brakes it also pulls to the left....
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04 Camry XLE, 63k miles. Since we bought this car, it has pulled to the left. I've taken it to two shops I trust and they showed me the report showing that the alignment is correct. This leads me to believe there is a worn joint somewhere that allows the front wheels to aim a bit left when driving. Where would be a good place to start troubleshooting?
Background: So far, I've called Toyota to verify that our car is up to speed on all TSB's and it is.
I've put my hand over the intermediate steering shaft upper joint while my wife moves the wheel side to side. There is some play there, but not much. I'm not sure how much there should be.
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So due to a puncture I got earlier this week, I had to buy a new front passenger side right tire. Now the car pulls very slightly to the right. Is this due to having about 6k miles on the left tire and a brand new right tire or do I need an alignment again?
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I have a 97 ford explorer sport with new tierods ball jonts control arms sway bar end links and bushings n I am having an issue with the steering its been in for alignment too n it pulls side to side....
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
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I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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