Truck shakes when in 3rd or final gear. When I shift it in second it won't shake at 45. If I press the gas and make the truck shift from 3rd to 4th it will stop shaking then start back up. Is it the torque converter or trans? Or u joints?
View 10 Replies2001 F-350 w/powerstroke. Tranny is the automatic w/overdrive. right at 170K miles and it has not been serviced since I've owned it (about 10 years).
Lately it is jerking when shifting, especially noticeable when I'm pulling my 5er (10K lbs). Almost a "clunk". No warning lights or OD flashing. I live at 6000 feet and play at over 9K so mountain driving is routine. Fluid is up to right spot on the dip-stick.
I have a 2001 F350 4x4. My transmission went out a while back. It would only go in reverse. I had it rebuilt and it is still having issues. When I take off with speed from a dead stop it shifts late...about 3000 RPMs. It shifts fine until it shifts into overdrive. It will go into to 4th then right into overdrive causing the truck to act sluggish.
I'm looking into my truck not starting well at any temp too! I didn't know if it could all be connected some how. My mechanic said that when he first started my truck it had a MAP sensor code. He also said that when he unplugged that sensor it didn't change the way the truck ran..Still like crap. I have changed all glow plugs relays and even did the mod to it.
my parents have a f350 which now has no reverse. it has a reman sticker on it, 230k on the truck but no idea on mileage on the tranny. shifts 1st through 4th fine, no slip. Tc lockup works just fine. No codes found with my solus scanner. When shifted in reverse it will move back about 2 ft if revved above 2k and then nothing. Am I looking a trans rebuild or is there something I can check and repair with in it the truck?
View 4 RepliesMy buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
View 4 RepliesMy truck is fairly new. Its a 2015 Ford F350 with 6000 Miles. I live on the east coast in a 4 seasons climate. Its summer the average temp. is in the lower 90's. Recently, I have noticed that my truck has been shuddering and shaking between 5th & 6th gear.
It started when I was changing lanes; I tried to accelerate going about 45mph, and shuddering real hard. It was difficult to maintain my speed on a level surface. It was almost a total loss of power with no trouble codes.
I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
View 6 RepliesHaving a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
I have owned my truck for 2 yrs now and put close to 100K on it. It has always had a slight vibration which I attributed to tires and/or one rim that requires a lot of weight to balance correctly.
In the past 4-5 months the vibration has become much worse, between 45-50 mph the truck would literally shake you out of the seat. I decided to pull the drive shaft out and have new u-joints installed and have it balanced. 2 hrs after dropping the drive shaft off at the repair shop, the owner calls me to say the tube is dented and he offers to re-tube the drive shaft for half his normal price. basically he cuts the flanges off the old shaft and welds old flanges on a new tube.
I have a new rear drive shaft that balanced out perfectly. Its so pretty, I don't want to install it in the truck.
Old drive shaft
New drive shaft
My 2011 F350 is shaking like a wet dog, all the time, loaded with a trailer and empty. It's the whole truck, not just the front end or rear end. It'll shake a Dr Pepper flat in 10 mins. No one can figure out why. Maybe y'all can think of something.
Here's what we've done
New tires, balanced
Alignment
Replaced ball joints and sway bar
Replaced carrier bearing
Replaced passenger front hub that got mysteriously locked and henceforth destroyed.
Replaced all 4 shocks
Where to look next?? Guess I should mention is 4x4 dually with 177,803 miles.
I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
I have a 1998 F250 XLT single cab 5.4L V8 Triton. Truck idles fine 1st and 2nd are fine, when it shifts into 3rd it starts shaking really bad until it gets higher into the gear then it smooths out. same with 4th gear. If i punch the gas it flies right through the gears with little shaking. Ive heard its the u joints, I've heard its the tranny. I don't know what to do or try to figure it out.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 5.4L excursion that intermittently shakes (feels like rumble strips/rough pavement) usually at 45-50 mph when the rpms are between 1500-2000. Increasing or decreasing rpms stopps the shaking. What could this be? I'm trying to figure out how much I might have to pay for repairs (pretty sure I'm not up to diying this one) without an expensive estimate.
View 9 Replies2001 Ford Escape or later and having problems with missing, low power and shaking when going up an incline. I have had problems with my escape for the last two years missing and missing and more missing. Have replaced Coil packs and spark plugs several of them. Well back in June I let the Mechanic have it for almost 3 months. All 6 coil packs were changed, spark plugs included, all vacuum hoses, belts, water pump, front CAT already had new radiator replaced last year. Had two broken wires leading from the PCM to the fuel injectors 1 and 5, he re did the wiring harness there and checked the fuel injectors.
After all done that could be done, I took my car back and it was purring like a kitten, on a flat surface that is............after driving it for several days, headed to another city and had several small inclines to go up, not bad ones, and between 45 and 50 mph, my escape started to shake, miss, and make noise, not a loud noise, but enough to get my attention, and the check engine light started going on and off. Today I took it back to my mechanic, he went on a test drive with me, (me driving) and it duplicated the problem. Went back to his shop, put the code machine on it, and no codes, I asked him if he had serviced my transmission like I asked, and he checked with his other mechanics and they said no, that the transmission fluid seemed okay, figured it didn't need it. Well guess what it did. So if ya'll are till having problems after you have replaced the coil packs, check for electrical issue around fuel injectors, and your front CAT, mine was full of fuel, then make sure you service the transmission, and you'll have the best little ride ever!!!
I have a 2001 f150 7700 edition. The truck has 118,000 miles and i've owned it for the past three years, the trucks great and really reliable. I drive the truck every day 50 miles to my college and about two weeks ago my truck started shaking . I had just got off the highway and made it to a stop sign. I then took off and when I hit about 30 miles an hour the truck started shaking but when I hit 40 it stopped.
I said whatever and ignored it. now it does it pretty much anytime I go past 30 miles in hour. My tranny shifts good. I checked the fluid and it was normal. smelt it and it didn't smell burnt or anything still pretty red. Some days its worse then others. Also, no engine lights, tranny lights, no obvious lose parts, tires are good. It only shakes when I give it gas. I let off the gas at 80mph and it doesn't shake at all. Which is why I'm confused.
Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 1997 f350 460 with 84,000 miles. When I put it in drive it wont shift out of first gear. If I shift manually I can get first and then second and they both work fine, if I go back to drive to hit third it goes into neutral and doesn't re-engage until the speed drops and then it goes back into first. atf looks fine and doesn't smell. Perhaps sight unseen internet auctions are not the right way to get a good deal...
View 2 RepliesI have 104k miles on car, had tune up back in 09, new die hard battery from sears spring '10, just today my car started to shake when in idling, check engine light flashing. It seems to shake itself even while driving, when in idle it will then kill or die. Had radiator flushed January 2nd, 2011 due to heat not pumping through, still doesn't work (I know heater core) like it should. Finally the other problem is when I start & turn the car on it won't turn over-it wants to but takes a few tries like turning key each click like as if it were alternator, does sound like it would if it did turnover but like I said it takes a while & maybe will fire/catch. What the heck is going on? 2001 flex fuel as well but I only once put it in.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesI have been hoping this problem would go away but it hasn't. I drive a 1991 350 diesel with Banks turbo and transmission module. When we first bought the truck it was only a few thousand miles before we had to have the tranny rebuilt. It was fine for about a year or two when we installed the Banks turbo and then after about five thousand miles the torque converter flew apart and ruined everything inside the tranny.
After this second rebuild it seems to be doing pretty good all except for it wanting to shift in and out of overdrive for no reason. I can have the cruise set on anywhere from 50-65 and when I start up a VERY slight hill it will downshift to third. I know that this engine has plenty of torque to maintain its speed up these small hills without downshifting so something isn't right. On this last rebuild our mechanic contacted Banks about the trans command and they told him to wrap the exhaust pipe with insulation to keep some of the heat off of the module under there and that seemed to work some.
(It shifts better than at first except for going in and out). Another thing that might be interesting is when it was first rebuilt this last time it had a problem with jerky shifts and the tranny light would come on. Our mechanic had to replace some sort of sensor in the tranny that kept breaking. He did this about three times and since he wrapped the exhaust it hasn't happened again. I hope I made everything clear for everyone to understand.