Ford Transmission :: CEL Came On And OD Light Flashing When Turn The Key And Engine Started
Sep 9, 2013
working on a 2000 F-150 (5.4L & 4R70W). the truck was towed to me with the complaint it would not go forward.
I found 6 transmission trouble codes set. I cleared the codes and was able to drive the truck for about 30 miles. It shifted perfectly and had all 4 forward gears, codes did not come back. I parked the truck to check the fluid level (it was full) waited about 15 mins and went to move the truck, As soon as I turned the key and started the engine the CEL came on and the OD light started flashing, the transmission would engage in forward gears but would just chatter when you tried to accelerate.
I checked the codes and found P0743, P0750, P0755, P1747 and P1760 set. I tried clearing the codes again several times and come back instantly when the key is turned on.
I doubt all the electrical solenoids in the transmission have failed at the same time. I suspect the internal connector and/or harness maybe faulty. what is the best course of diagnosis on this? where so I start?
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One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
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Had a front seal leak on my 2000 F250 V10 with 122000 miles. Since I've towed for years and the tranny had to be pulled I opted to just rebuild the whole tranny. I had problems from the beginning where it wouldn't shift into third and when I took my foot off the gas it would just go out of gear completely and just rev. After I stopped and started over, it would shift fine for the rest of the day.
Finally the O/D stem light started flashing and the mechanic did something to fix it. Since then it has shifted fine but when it went into overdrive the rpm would bump up and kind of slide into overdrive. Left the truck with the mechanic again for two weeks and it's better, sometimes revs and slides into overdrive not every time though.
My problem, besides the overdrive shifting, is it now takes forever to shift in to 4th gear. I have to take my foot off the gas to make it shift into 4th and overdrive won't kick in until 45 MPH. My gas mileage, while bad enough before all this, has now dropped another 2 mpg to around 7.5 to 8. I was thinking about taking it to a Ford dealer for some kind of analysis.
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2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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I've got a problem with a 2000 Impreza 2.5RS 5spd. It started with the check engine light coming on. A trip to Auto zone revealed that the O2 sensor was the problem. But on the way home, the light came on again and started flashing. All the while the car started acting like it had a misfire. It idles really rough and the exhaust smells like it's running really rich. I've replaced the plugs and wires, and all corners of the ignition coil check out properly as well. Can the O2 sensor cause a misfire in one or more of the cylinders? Or is something else that I should be interrogating as the cause?
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Two days ago my 2005 T went in to have a heated driver seat switch replaced. Since getting it back we now have an annoying red light flashing from just to the top right of the Nav screen. Light flashes until either the radio is switched on or engine is started. I've checked the owners manual and forum but can't find any info on it.
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A couple of weeks ago I was driving my 2008 Toyota Yaris and the check engine light came on. Soon after the check engine light came on every dash light started flashing. The Car down shift into second while I was going 55 miles an hour! We took the car into a service center where they said it was the speed sensor which they replaced. We got the car home. I drove it to work the next day and while going to lunch the check engine light came back on! The car seems to be shifting fine though! They mentioned that if the speed sensor didn't fix it, it could be the "cluster"! What the heck is that?
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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My girl has a 20004 Alero and she has the security problem at least one time almost everyday. When she tries to crank it, the sec light will be flashing. She turns the key to the on position for 10 mins. The light becomes solid. Then she can crank it.I have seen a video on YouTube of someone putting a toggle switch on the security wire on a Grand Am. Can I put this toggle bypass on her vehicle or is there a better fix?
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2003 SCrew, 5.4, auto, 4x4.... Yesterday my left turn signal started flashing fast; checked and the front was not flashing. Picked up a new bulb, changed it, didn't fix anything.
I've tried:
-tilt wheel up/down in all settings-no change
-checked the wiring at the top of the column; still good and solid.
-swapped the bulbs left to right and vice versa-no change.
-swapped the sockets left to right and vice versa-no change.
Other info:
-the left front is the only one not flashing with hazards on.
-all original equipment, except I removed the stock side mirrors (w/signal) and installed manual trailer towing mirrors, but that was 2 or 3 years ago.
-the dash indicator light for left turn (arrow) does not come on at all.
-last trailer tow was over a month ago and all was good.
I ran out of daylight last night and at work now so I would like know which Fuse, Flasher, Relay, etc., I should check/replace and where to find them on the truck; under the hood (1st or 2nd stack of the fuse blocks); under the dash above the pedals; steering column???
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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On the way home tonight, the O/D light started flashing. I happened to have the Bluetooth OBD adapter with me, so I plugged it in and opened Torque. It comes up with a "pending" code of P0743. After a little bit, the light quit flashing so we drove the last mile home. The O/D light began flashing again the last couple hundred feet before our driveway. There didn't seem to be any loss of power or anything like that the whole time.
After we got the kids to bed I went back out to check the fluid level. (It had cooled some, so I let it run a bit before I checked it - the light wasn't flashing this time.) The level is at the second dot, right below the crosshatch. It's almost transparent, but I don't know when it was last flushed (if ever). From what I've seen on here, I'm guessing this is an electrical short somewhere?
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So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
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I got a 99 f150 with a 4R70W and 311,000 miles on it and last year the od light started flashing while I was going down the interstate so I checked the fluid when i got home and it was beyond burnt so i changed fluid and filter. So a month or so ago it started doing this thing where on take off it will rev up like its in neutral for a couple seconds then reengage and drive normal till i stop and start to take off again. It don't do it every time and it drives/pulls just fine other than that.
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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The brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
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