Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1953 F100 - Oil Pressure Gauge Not Working
Jul 6, 2014
I'm about to dropkick my oil gauge but need to make sure that it is the problem. It WAS working but recently stopped. Here's what I have:
Dolphin electric oil gauge as part of their 6 gauge kit...fairly new oil sending unit (it's been on a year or so but the truck is not road worthy yet)....312 V8 and all of this is in a '53 F100.
I have verified, by hooking up a direct oil pressure gauge, that there is oil pressure. I have checked my wiring (it is all new from about a year ago) and it is all hooked up. My question is with the oil gauge removed, how can I hook up power to it and see if it works?
I could just go replace the sending unit but being that it is new I'm not going to throw parts at it just yet.
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I have a new 12 volt wiring harness in my 1953 f100. I had no problems with the truck running until recently. Here is what is happening. The engine will turn over just fine, but not crank. I am getting spark at the plugs. My ignition switch is new. Plugs are new. I have breakerless system in my distributor. I am wandering if it could be the voltage regulator causing this. Very frustrating.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Just got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
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I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
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I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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Need a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
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I have a main tank and an Aux tank with a gauge selector switch. I believe I may have a bad fuse as the indicator has stopped working. Where it is on the fuse block??
1978 Ford F-250
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I have 2 1986 Ford F250 supercab I switched cabs to put the better cab on my truck power windows wipers heater blower motor all light signals work no fuel gauge power or fuel pump power no power to the inertia switch
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My fuel gauge indicates empty at all times. The first suggestion I received was to replace the sending unit in the gas tank. I did that but the gauge still indicates empty.
I tried the HEC Dealer test mode and I now know that FUEL reads 255. Which should be an 'open' state. The connector near the fuel tank does appear to be making good contact, so my suspicion is a broken wire somewhere between the rear of the truck and the front.
I tried following the wire on it's way towards the front of the truck, but I quickly loose sight of the wire as more branches enter into the wiring harness. Where does this wire end? Does it terminate in the engine compartment, at the instrument cluster, somewhere else?
I just can't figure out how to narrow down where the break in the wire might be. Or am I chasing down the wrong root cause?
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Turn signals quit working on my 2006 E-150. Swapped out the relay under the dash and it did nothing. Also noticed the brake lights aren't working. The headlights and taillight a are working. I pulled the fuses under dash for the lights and they tested ok. I did notice the flasher relay was making clicking sounds intermittently even when not touching anything.
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Start out, drive about 20 minutes, get on the Interstate and the battery light comes on 2008 F 150 5.4L 4X4 - 57K miles..... get to my destination, went about 20 miles, turn around to come home, without turning the truck off because of the battery light being on and I notice the charging gauge drifting down to the left, get back on the Interstate and the wipers are slowing down and lights on the dash are dimming.....go around 15 more minutes I lose all lights on dash, wipers, defroster everything, charging gauge is now pegged all the way down to the left and the truck is starting to act up running like crap so I barely make it off the Interstate and call a flatbed, I guess I was about an hour into the trip ..... battery is only about a year old and it started fine that morning and the day before when it was about 12 degrees ...... dealership had the truck, just gave me a call and said they can't find anything ?? ..... never a days problem since I bought it new in late 07' ....
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Truck is in signature. All of a sudden my oem fogs don't work. I took a volt meter to the connection where the bulb plugs in and no juice. Checked the fuse and its good.I get 12 volts or so at fuse for fogs.. The fog light illuminator lights at the switch when I pull the switch. Is there a relay somewhere under the hood. All the relays in the fuse box checked out good and none of them in my truck guide were labeled for the fogs anyways. Looked for 3 hours and cant find a thing. If all else fails how do I cut the wires at the fog lights and run wire to cab with toggle switch? I know I need a relay right? I am not familiar with hooking up relays..
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My brake lights don't work. Turn signals, tail lights, hazard flashers work, but if I hit the brake, nothing happens. What could possibly be the problem? Could there be a wiring issue?
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I did lower the steering column, onto the seat. Also lowed the dash and the wiring. Does it sound like the Multifunction switch could be bad? I can put it in drive, so I don't think it's the brake light pedal switch, that's bad.
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i have an 85 f150. the brake lights are not working. i checked the bulbs, both filiments are working. i have running lights, turn signals, and hazards, just no brake lights. i am confused as to why i have everything else except brake lights. need to figure out what to do next to figure this out.
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I swapped a 4.9l into a 1997 F-350 that had a 5.8L originally, my issue is the fuel injectors are not working. I did my homework and got the harness that was with the engine out of a 1995 F-150 and also got the correct PCM to go along with my E4OD tranny that is in the F-350. It has spark and 60 plus PSI fuel pressure in the rail and will run with starting fluid shot in the throttle body. Both vehicles came with OBD I so should be compatible there. I do not have 12v to the injectors and obviously the NOID light shows no pulse either. Could be a ground but not sure where to look or what else could cause this.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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My radio, all gauges and windows aren't working. Fuse 17 did not seem blown but I changed it anyway and still no luck.
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