I have 2 1986 Ford F250 supercab I switched cabs to put the better cab on my truck power windows wipers heater blower motor all light signals work no fuel gauge power or fuel pump power no power to the inertia switch
View 12 RepliesOK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
I have a main tank and an Aux tank with a gauge selector switch. I believe I may have a bad fuse as the indicator has stopped working. Where it is on the fuse block??
1978 Ford F-250
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
View 14 RepliesMy fuel gauge indicates empty at all times. The first suggestion I received was to replace the sending unit in the gas tank. I did that but the gauge still indicates empty.
I tried the HEC Dealer test mode and I now know that FUEL reads 255. Which should be an 'open' state. The connector near the fuel tank does appear to be making good contact, so my suspicion is a broken wire somewhere between the rear of the truck and the front.
I tried following the wire on it's way towards the front of the truck, but I quickly loose sight of the wire as more branches enter into the wiring harness. Where does this wire end? Does it terminate in the engine compartment, at the instrument cluster, somewhere else?
I just can't figure out how to narrow down where the break in the wire might be. Or am I chasing down the wrong root cause?
I have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.
I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.
My vehicle would not turn over and we could tell it was fuel related. The fiel pump relay has burnt through the motherboard of the fusebox. It is my understanding that this cannot be fixedand another fusebox must be installed. I have been to many junkyards in my are looking for it to avoid the dealer prices..all of the expeditions that we have found locally have already had the fusebox pulled. Any other vehicles that this might be interchangable with? My friend has an 01 expedition..would this work?
View 1 RepliesMy 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
View 2 RepliesI am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
View 14 RepliesI'm about to dropkick my oil gauge but need to make sure that it is the problem. It WAS working but recently stopped. Here's what I have:
Dolphin electric oil gauge as part of their 6 gauge kit...fairly new oil sending unit (it's been on a year or so but the truck is not road worthy yet)....312 V8 and all of this is in a '53 F100.
I have verified, by hooking up a direct oil pressure gauge, that there is oil pressure. I have checked my wiring (it is all new from about a year ago) and it is all hooked up. My question is with the oil gauge removed, how can I hook up power to it and see if it works?
I could just go replace the sending unit but being that it is new I'm not going to throw parts at it just yet.
I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.
View 14 RepliesI'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the power windows in a 96 f150. I've got a set of these that i need to fab a harnes for to install in my 82.
View 12 RepliesSo I'm writing this for my friend but he has a 1978 F-150 with a 1969 390 in it. He recently had a problem where his starter got stuck and it lit the wires connected to the solenoid up in flames. Well anyways we replaced all the wires that were attached to the solenoid and replaced the solenoid and the starter also. But after wiring it up it has no power whatsoever. The battery is also brand new and the fuse links are fine. What is causing this?
View 2 RepliesStart out, drive about 20 minutes, get on the Interstate and the battery light comes on 2008 F 150 5.4L 4X4 - 57K miles..... get to my destination, went about 20 miles, turn around to come home, without turning the truck off because of the battery light being on and I notice the charging gauge drifting down to the left, get back on the Interstate and the wipers are slowing down and lights on the dash are dimming.....go around 15 more minutes I lose all lights on dash, wipers, defroster everything, charging gauge is now pegged all the way down to the left and the truck is starting to act up running like crap so I barely make it off the Interstate and call a flatbed, I guess I was about an hour into the trip ..... battery is only about a year old and it started fine that morning and the day before when it was about 12 degrees ...... dealership had the truck, just gave me a call and said they can't find anything ?? ..... never a days problem since I bought it new in late 07' ....
View 5 RepliesI swapped a 4.9l into a 1997 F-350 that had a 5.8L originally, my issue is the fuel injectors are not working. I did my homework and got the harness that was with the engine out of a 1995 F-150 and also got the correct PCM to go along with my E4OD tranny that is in the F-350. It has spark and 60 plus PSI fuel pressure in the rail and will run with starting fluid shot in the throttle body. Both vehicles came with OBD I so should be compatible there. I do not have 12v to the injectors and obviously the NOID light shows no pulse either. Could be a ground but not sure where to look or what else could cause this.
View 14 RepliesAfter changing my radiator support, my fuel and temperature gauges don't work. I looked to see if everything was plugged in and I don't see anything unplugged. I do know the older trucks used the V-R regulators, but I don't know about this model.
View 2 RepliesI have an 01' f150 that everything is going out on. I've replaced the GEM module thinking that's what it was to no avail. First thing to go was all four windows which have currently been stuck halfway down for 2 weeks. It's stalling out during idle like it isn't getting enough fuel to it. Brake and engine light on dash are staying on. Radio, interior lights won't come on. Will not come out of park once in. I have to do the old forward, back, middle key trick to get it out of park into neutral so I can start it and go. I've also checked all fuses and relays under dash and under Hood.
View 3 RepliesLooking for a link to the fuel pump wiring for a 2000 V10 Ex? I'm trying to pinpoint my no start issue and want to make sure I don't miss anything. I think it goes from 20 amp fuse under hood to inertia switch to relay under hood to pump? 20 amp fuse has power but at the inertia switch I have no voltage, just approx 35 ohms resistance to ground on both outside wires. Does the inertia switch close a ground or should it have voltage?
View 10 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
View 3 RepliesI changed a fuel pump that a service shop said was bad. It would start and run for a few minutes and then stop. If it started at all. I dropped the tank and put a new pump in. The car did not start at all, not once. Not even fire. I had to install a new electrical connector inside the tank on the pump. The connector was different than the one in there. I connected black wire to black and grey to grey, thinking that made sense. Took off inline fuel filter next to tank. Had someone turn on key to see if fuel would come out. Nothing. But I did hear fuel running loudly through the return line. Which confused me at the time.
Thinking of it over night, could it be not likely, very likely those lines are in reverse, causing the pump to pump backwards. Which is why I heard fuel going through the return line? If this is the case I am going to try tomorrow to reverse the lines going into the tank. Instead of the fun of removing tank again. Why would pumps have black and grey wires that hook up differently?