Am facing a dropping on voltage power. When my truck on the idle the voltage reading 12.2V , but when I turn the HIDs and the a/c plus the a/c fan, the voltage drop to almost 9.5V , Then the transmission starts to slamming the gears. Is it the alternator acting or the Battery Which is new. I don't have the battery light on the dash but I think the dash light is not working .
View 14 RepliesSo I've been having problems with my old duraspark 2 ignition box and I replaced that but it didn’t seem to fix the problem. The truck doesn’t start if the voltage is down around 12v, it cranks but no spark. So I put it on the charger a couple hours ago and came inside and was reading old posts on here about testing the ignition system and then just went out to test the negative side of the coil with a test light and low and behold when my assistant went to crank it over the truck started right up like everything was fine. I took off the charger.
So then what I did was I checked the charge at the battery while the truck was running with a dvm and the voltage was 14.33 then I turned on the electric fan and it jumped up to 14.88 and spiked at 15 then held at 14.88. is that normal or is the voltage a little on the high side? If it is high then could it be the voltage regulator or alternator? And could that have been my problem all along instead of the ignition module?
I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
I'm afraid my FICM is on its way out. I'm getting voltages dropping to 46.5V about once a minute. Never goes below that. Then it'll bounce up to around 48.5. It gets low when I have to rev up and always coincides with the main voltage dropping to around 12.9V.
Now for my battery condition. They are about a year old. I think I have one with a bad cell. They'll drop into the low 11V range while cranking after glow plug light goes off. While driving, the main voltage never gets below 13.1 except for very short periods ... which coincide with the 46.5V output on the FICM. Gonna have them tested separately at advanced auto and see on has a bad cell.
So, is my FICM starting to go? Second question. What do I tell the folks at Advanced Auto about replacing both an not just one? I suspect they'll want to argue about it with me.
I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
View 10 RepliesI'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the power windows in a 96 f150. I've got a set of these that i need to fab a harnes for to install in my 82.
View 12 RepliesSo I'm writing this for my friend but he has a 1978 F-150 with a 1969 390 in it. He recently had a problem where his starter got stuck and it lit the wires connected to the solenoid up in flames. Well anyways we replaced all the wires that were attached to the solenoid and replaced the solenoid and the starter also. But after wiring it up it has no power whatsoever. The battery is also brand new and the fuse links are fine. What is causing this?
View 2 RepliesMy Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.
I've got an '02 Jetta GLX with a 09a tiptronic. Last year I had to replace one of the shift solenoids. (Car wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. Now I've got an issue with the car slamming between gears, mostly up shifting. I've ordered the n93 solenoid but I've been reading the post with the symptoms. The job is labor intensive and I really don't want to miss anything. Is there another solenoid I should be replacing.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
View 3 RepliesMy sonata 2012 with 71K km on it just started hard shifting in the morning, after first start. It slamming in D from R very harsh and then shifts all other gears for ~3 minutes harshly (upshift / downshift) and then it gets fine and shifts gears with absolutely no problem throughout the day. Dealer of course was not able to reproduce the problem.
View 37 Replies2000 Saturn L Series Station Wagon 73,772 miles
The Check Engine Soon light was on this morning but when on highway today and at 70MPH the Service light came on and then the Reduced Power light.
Couldn't drive past 5MPH but when I turned the key off and back on the power returned but the tranny was Slamming into gears. I made it back home but where to go from here.
I recently purchased a 1995 F150 4x4 with the 351 Windsor. Upon driving it I realized the speedo didn't work, transmission shifted hard,and OD light blinking. After googling my issue I found out it was the VSS. I climbed under the truck to find out the VSS isn't even plugged in. I searched for the wire but could not find it, only a spliced cable.....
View 4 RepliesMy buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
View 2 Replies89' Bronco 5.0 EFI. My Bronc has no power at all! Heres the senerio... Parked it this past Thursday night 2/16. Tried to start it Friday morning 2/17. Starter just acted like the battery was bad. Took the battery to 2 different auto stores to have it tested and it passed. Initially the starter just tried to turn, after I put the battery back in the solenoid just clicked, no starter. I already replaced the starter and starter solenoid on Monday 2/13 with a new, not reman starter.
At this point I am just throwing parts at it. This past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler, the ignition switch on the column and today I replaced the EEC relay. When I check voltage to the stater solenoid I get voltage to both sides??? I also get voltage from the red ignition wire to the top of the solenoid. Otherwise have zero power to the rest of the truck. No radio, no dome lights, no headlights, power locks, power windows or back glass. What gives?
I have a 2002 excursion XLT. it does not have power seats for the driver or passenger. I came across some power seats from a 2002 limited. what I need to know is, can I remove the non power seats and put in the seats from the limited, is the wiring already in the XLT model to just plug it in, or im I going to have to do some rewiring.
View 2 RepliesSo I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 Replies1996 ford explorer xlt 4.0. One day it worked fine the next day it would not start. When I turn the key there are no dash lights or exterior lights, nothing. There is also no crank over no noise of any kind. I checked all my fuses, I had one in my power distributer. It was for my premium sound, amplifier ect. I cant check the relays I don't have the correct tools. I was thinking maybe the pcm relay has gone bad? I tried jumping the car as well and nothing happened at all either.
View 19 RepliesI have a 02 f350 can not get power to a/c compressor have power at high pressure And low pressure can run a hot wire and ground to compressor and it works.
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