GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Stock Crank Pulley Has A Dampener Which Keep Vibrating
Jan 24, 2013
So, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
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My tensioner pulley broke yesterday and I replaced it. But it had broken 3-4 months ago also.
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So I have been looking but cant really seem to find an efficiant way to remove my stock shifter.
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I find that the Rubber stock ones are not grippy enough. I have used the turner motorsport ones on my bmw but not sure if they will retro-fit on my 337.
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Getting a slight FW chatter on stock clutch setup (02M)? I've noticed it for a while...most of the time I don't notice it, but other times I will be sitting in the drive-through and it will chatter. Goes away when the clutch is depressed.
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I have a 20th with 106k on it and I notice mostly my right front rubbing on hard turns. Suspension is totally stock other than a 28mm rear sway. Is it possible that's causing it or is my suspension just getting old? No spacer on the fronts.
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Have a 05 GLI tiptronic. Every time while making a left turn there is a LOUD vibrating/rattling sound coming from underneath my shifter. Dealership told me it was my exhaust rattling since it was larger than OEM. That doesn't sound right at all.....
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When I drive my car past about 3000 rpms then let them fall i hear an odd sort of vibrating noise coming from the turbo between where ever I rev it up to and about 2600 rpms. Is this normal? Its fairly quiet and can only be heard without the radio on and if your listening for it. This worries me because I've only had this k03 for about 5000 miles .Some background info I am chipped with uni at 20psi, full 3" turbo back and an 007 dv.
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My 20th has been having a starting issue and I've honestly tried everything I can think of, this issue just randomly started one day the car will not start on first crank it starts second or third every time. After it's started and running it runs perfect its just getting it started.
I've replaced the Crankshaft sensor, Camshaft sensor, Coolant temp sensor, the car has had new injectors (440) installed about two months ago, has the new battery. My father is a mechanic and he has also tried everything he knows to do and we asked our local VW specialist and he said to try the things we have already did. Ran codes when the issue started and it only came up with camshaft sensor and we replaced that and cleared the code still nothing. Once this issue started we parked the car and started troubleshooting and the oil was low? even though I know before the issue started it was good and full. the car has a stage two intronic tune, 440 injectors, secondary air delete and all and a shaved and partially tucked bay, there are no resistors is the open unused sensors.
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just found my cranksensor was dead.. on the highway today.. sooo!.. can som1 tell me where is that sensor exactly so i can change it today.
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There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
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I got the car like that. When I take off hard there is a crack somewhere in the front. Then when I stop hard it cracks too. What could it be??? Sometype of bushing??
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So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
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I get a ticking niose when i crank the wheel all the way to the left or right and reverse .. What it could be (its fine when I drive forward)....
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Video : [URL] .....
My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
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Preparing for a timing belt replacement on a 2007 elantra. well aware of how to remove the crank pulley and do the job. My question is this : once you have the nut off, does the crank pulley come off by hand or is a puller required? came off nicely wiggling it by hand on any accent i've done, but never done this particular job with the elantra.
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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