Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Engine Not Turning Over As Quick / Gas Is Delayed
Apr 16, 2013
So, I've noticed over the past few days my '11 GTI w/ DSG isn't turning over as quick but when it does I feel as though my gas is delayed. For instance, if I push the accelerator down I feel like It does nothing and then suddenly kicks in when the pedal is more than halfway pressed. Also noticed by the same token if I keep it floored I go way into the redline before it shifts. Almost pushing the 7k rpm line. I'm thinking it's either my starter is going bad for the turn over portion but then I feel like it's something to do with spark plugs for the delayed response.
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Second time this has happened in about 3 days... I think I'm about to have a failure.
Symptoms: Odd sound briefly on start as the engine ignites, sounds like friction plates... like a small clutch. Like a woosh with too much frictiony zzzzzz sound. Lasts less than 2 seconds. Have not heard this sound before. A/C comes on a little delayed. Never seemed to take this long to get going before, maybe about 15 seconds.... before about 2-5 secs or so?A slightly burnt smell into the cab upon shutdown.
Again I'm thinking friction plates maybe. A/C compressor clutch?
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There is a new issue with our 2012 Tiguan S 4Motion. On several occasions the wipers did not turn on when the stalk switch was moved through its positions. Right now, the switch and wipers are working but we don't know for how long.
One interesting fact is that when the switch is left in the on position, the wipers eventually start working. This delay can be as long as 5 minutes.
I scanned with VCDS and found no faults. I monitored the switch position with no issues in any of the 4 positions. Forcing the output causes the wiper motor to work as well. Since the wipers will not operate with the hood open I also checked the status of the hood switch. That too had no errors and responded correctly, disabling the wipers when the hood was unlatched/opened.
Having issues with your wipers not responding to the switch inputs? I will continue to monitor it and will scan with VCDS if I can catch it in the act.
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'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
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I have a 2013 Sonata Limited with an odd problem. Once every 10 starts or so, I depress the start button and the car starts up but only after a few seconds' delay. I don't hear anything during those few seconds, no cranking, clicking, or other noises. Normally, the engine turns over immediately, but every now and then, there's that odd delay.
When I get into the car, the photo of the car and the word "Sonata" do show up on the center of the dashboard, so the car seems to be detecting the key OK (and I already changed the batteries in the smart keys). This delay in turning over seems not to be related to the coldness of the car (it has happened both when the car hasn't been used for a few days and when the car was used maybe 15 minutes ago). I should add that this does NOT seem to be the brake sensor issue that I had with the 2011 Sonata SE that I leased previously, as the ESC light isn't coming on.
The car is on its original battery, so I'm wondering if this indicates that the battery is weakening. Also, the car has been in a garage where there is construction work occurring with a fair amount of dust.
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2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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I have a 2011 GTi, and I'm sure this has been gone over many many times, but I need to be honest, with work and trade school and lack of a good smartphone I have no time to search this on vortex. I just want to know how to turn my DRLs off on my GTi, its the sunroof nav package with BI Xenons. I think I heard you need to use VAG COM to load some special code, and that's about all I heard. So where to get it to turn these off.
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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This is about a 2011 Sonata. I picked it up for my son.
The car has been running really well for the past few months, then out of the clear, when trying to start the car, the starter does a quick spin-free, then a short whine. The battery voltage is at 13.1 prior to attempting to start.
The car finally started under a jump from another car, but only after several turns of the key. And with each turn of the key, was the spin-free, then short whine, like described above. It's like the starter had a dead spot -or several dead spots- and I caught it just right, and it started.
I have the battery on an overnight charge. It sound like the starter to me. What do you think? And if it is the starter, how big a deal is it changing it out?
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My cousin has a 2011 honda civic ex A/T and when he lets off the gas his transmission makes a quick knock noise. It's not too loud but it's very noticeable. Shifts fine and everything. Also it sounds like he is forcing his transmission from park to reverse. We hear a lot of noises not so much grinding noises but a lot of movement I guess you could say. But it engages quick. Is this normal or should we take it in? I have had multiple people tell me it's all normal. But it doesn't sound normal to me.
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Remote App will not turn engine off, just start it. How Dumb is this to design car to remote start but Not Remote Turn Off???
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Today I went out to crank my Sonata SE 2.4. Pressing the ignition button only got me a buzzing and no turning of the engine. We've been out of the country for 2 weeks and the car has been in the garage since then. I have a portable battery booster that I attached to the battery and the car started normally. I drove it for around thirty minutes and switched it off in my driveway. Immediately tried to restart and it would not start. Boosted again and headed to Auto Zone to have the battery tested. Battery tested bad so I had it replaced. The car started immediately so I turned it off and tried to restart as a precaution. No go.... boosted again and cranked fine. The new battery tested out good so we decided that maybe the charge could be low or? maybe we just needed to run it some on the interstate.
I now had a cel on. So we get out onto the interstate and drive about two miles and the engine looses power, limp mode ?. Pull to the side of the road and RPM's at only 1500 with the accelerator to the floor. I was afraid to restart the engine that it would possibly not restart and I'd have to be towed.
Luckily, we were about two miles from the Hyundai dealership so we limped there at 20 MPH. The car is at the dealership now being diagnosed.
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I think this concern of mine stems from past trauma related to broken A/C's (in cars and homes) with expensive repairs, but did I shorten the life of my GTI's A/C by stalling the car shortly after start up, and then restarting it again (with the A/C on)? The A/C got cycled on, then off, then on again within a 10-20 second time span.
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How sensitive is the sensor? I was on the highway going at about 75, when the wipers did two quick sweeps. Can insects set off the sensor? What's the best site for discount OEM parts and accessories?
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Going to clean egr and throttle on my golf mk6 tdi. Can I just unscrew the three screws that holds the egr on the manifold, or if I need to dismantle more parts?
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Seems like the engine and transmission are talking through Google Translate. The usual problems: too quick upshifts, too slow downshifts, lugging and vibration at RPM too low for road speed around town, hesitation. Aware this all supposedly support mileage but it's putting a rough edge on an otherwise quiet and likeable car. In fact, mileage seems to be suffering a bit. Aware there's a TSB on the 6AT that supposedly cures this via a software update .
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When my car is cold... sitting 8 hours below freezing I've noticed until the car warms up I hear almost like a quick scraping sound when I take off from a stop or when shifting. It's almost like when the engine is put under load the movement causes something to shift and makes this noise. Any chance I have a loose mount or a portion of the exhaust could be shifting coming in contact with something?
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Sometimes when I start up my 1500, I hear a quick knock. It knocks like four times and then goes away. Any input?
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A demonstration of how the Airlift tool spares you from the hassle of burping the system and attaching a hose to the top air vent on the engine. Done on a 2010 Prius but it applies across the board.
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So I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
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I just picked up my R32 2 days ago and I notice that when it shifts up semi-aggressive (around 4.5 rpm) there is a quick swish sound as the gear engages. It sounds like it is coming from the muffler system, in the rear. What it is?
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