Golf/GTI VI :: Quick And Easy Way For EGR Cleaning / Removal?
May 22, 2015
Going to clean egr and throttle on my golf mk6 tdi. Can I just unscrew the three screws that holds the egr on the manifold, or if I need to dismantle more parts?
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My 2010 Sportwagen TDI has recently started to misfire. This only seems to happen when I'm going easy on the throttle. It also seems to happen after about 10 seconds after I've come to a stop and began moving again. It only appears to misfire once, then it goes away for a couple of minutes, then it sometimes returns. I haven't been able to track it to a specific RPM, speed, or gear, but it does seem to be more frequent around 1600-2000 RPM and about 30 mph. It feels more pronounced in the lower gears, but this is probably due to the gear ratio effect. There are no engine lights. I have not taken it in for a dealer scan. It has 32,000 miles, I always use name-brand diesel along with Diesel Kleen at every fuel up.
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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I think this concern of mine stems from past trauma related to broken A/C's (in cars and homes) with expensive repairs, but did I shorten the life of my GTI's A/C by stalling the car shortly after start up, and then restarting it again (with the A/C on)? The A/C got cycled on, then off, then on again within a 10-20 second time span.
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How sensitive is the sensor? I was on the highway going at about 75, when the wipers did two quick sweeps. Can insects set off the sensor? What's the best site for discount OEM parts and accessories?
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What are some good products or ways to clean the interior? To be more specific the dash, hard plastic, and leather bits.
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Seems like the engine and transmission are talking through Google Translate. The usual problems: too quick upshifts, too slow downshifts, lugging and vibration at RPM too low for road speed around town, hesitation. Aware this all supposedly support mileage but it's putting a rough edge on an otherwise quiet and likeable car. In fact, mileage seems to be suffering a bit. Aware there's a TSB on the 6AT that supposedly cures this via a software update .
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So, I've noticed over the past few days my '11 GTI w/ DSG isn't turning over as quick but when it does I feel as though my gas is delayed. For instance, if I push the accelerator down I feel like It does nothing and then suddenly kicks in when the pedal is more than halfway pressed. Also noticed by the same token if I keep it floored I go way into the redline before it shifts. Almost pushing the 7k rpm line. I'm thinking it's either my starter is going bad for the turn over portion but then I feel like it's something to do with spark plugs for the delayed response.
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When my car is cold... sitting 8 hours below freezing I've noticed until the car warms up I hear almost like a quick scraping sound when I take off from a stop or when shifting. It's almost like when the engine is put under load the movement causes something to shift and makes this noise. Any chance I have a loose mount or a portion of the exhaust could be shifting coming in contact with something?
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I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
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So I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
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I just picked up my R32 2 days ago and I notice that when it shifts up semi-aggressive (around 4.5 rpm) there is a quick swish sound as the gear engages. It sounds like it is coming from the muffler system, in the rear. What it is?
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Just installed FK Streetlines..... So everything is very tight in the back, before putting weight on the suspension I went over all the bolts and everything is tight. But I occasionally get a single or quick double pop sound from the right rear area, I can almost feel it in my seat/floor. But it's not frequent and not on smooth or rough roads really I can't find a pattern. Usually turning left and a little side to side undulation... Maybe. I've checked over everything. Car has 500mi. Suspension has 50mi maybe..
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I'm having a situation here. Yesterday I decided to clean the MAF in my 01 VW Jetta 2.0, so without disconnecting the battery I unplugged and took the MAF sensor out and sprayed it using "CRC MAF sensor cleaner", let it dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then re installed it. When I tried to start the car, I opened the ignition (ON position) and didn't hear the pump priming, still tried to start the car, it when on for about 2 seconds at rough-800rpm idle then rpms dropped and car stopped running. Then, I tried to started it again a couple of times more and I still don't hear the fuel pump priming and the car will crank but not start.
Did I ruin/blew the fuel pump or something in the system? I don't understand what could have possibly gone wrong. I already tried searching for it but did't find the exact same situation and though details might be important.
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Any tips and tricks on cleaning this? Just did an entire wash clay compound with orbital and a wax. Car looks great for a 12 year old but This area is a bit tricky clay gets stuck in the pores and nothing seems to clean it well. Id like to clay it but its not working well.
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So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
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I put my prius back on the road about 6 weeks ago... i've had to steam clean the interior 3 times, and vacuum it....almost daily.
It's a light tan color...which doesn't work but i have other light color interior vehicles and they don't get filthy like this thing does, is this just in how it was made at toyota or??
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My driver seat is noticeably more worn out than my passenger seat. I would like to have them swap places, thus allowing me to have virtually a 'brand new' seat. I took a quick peak around the area and it appears to be something I can attempt, but I don't want to get in over my head. Not to mention reinstalling them wrong and having some kind of a safety issue.
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What all is needed to swap to the newer style and how easy is it?
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Does the 'easy entry' function on your Phaeton only cause the steering wheel to move up and down, or, does it cause the steering wheel to move up and down and the driver seat to slide back and forward? My understanding is that both actions should take place - wheel up and seat back (or vice-versa), but I can only ever recall seeing the steering wheel of my car move up.
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When I had my center console out to do the DIY cupholder light mod, I also took apart the gear position indicator light assembly. It is just a plastic clamshell around a pc board with a bunch of LEDs on it. Three phillips screws hold it together. It is a really simple design. I took a black sharpie pen to each of the LEDs, putting a centered dot on each of them, covering maybe 2/3 of the lens area. I just guessed at that coverage. I reassembled it and was very pleased at the result when it's dark out. The brightness is about half of what it was, just right in my book. You can use the "DIY cupholder mod" thread (page 1) to see how to get the console out. I drive a lot at night, and the bright light has always bothered me. Now if I could just dim those annoying bright green dash lights...
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