Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 / 2.5L - Rear Quarter Panel Access For Dent Repair?
Sep 7, 2011
getting access to the back of the rear quarter panel for paintless dent repair? This is for a 2 door 2012 Golf 2.5L.
I've heard from a few people that there's likely some sort of access point for this car but I haven't gotten any specifics. I'd rather not have the PDR guy drill a hole in the wheel well for the needed access.
I do see what looks like factory hole with rubber cover behind where the door closes (lower part) ..
Here's the location of the dent (dent itself is not visible at this resolution, but it's right at the point of the crease):
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I am hearing a squeaking noise by my right rear quarter panel inside the cabin. How to safely remove the panel. I tried searching but the instructions were vague.
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I bought a used 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T Limited in August from a Hyundai dealership near Vancouver, BC. The vehicle had fairly high mileage (95K) but had been well-cared for and I got it for a fair price.
After a few days I noticed there was a "crunching" noise coming from the rear driver's side quarter panel area when going over the u/g parking ramp into my condo. The rear seats also jiggle and rattle at moderate speeds. Didn't really notice either on my test drive before buying it, as I just went over smooth roads.
I searched this forum and found some good leads, such as the inner quarter panel being loose, rear trailing arm issues, or perhaps some faulty welds. I printed out this info. reported by other owners and brought it to the dealership.
As kind of expected, the technician each time has said he couldn't hear anything unusual. (selective hearing?) The suspension system is supposedly sound.
My friends and family members all hear this creak (under the right conditions when the rear wheels are at uneven heights)...it's not my imagination. I've taken out the styrofoam cargo support and nothing changed.
I had a loaner 2015 Santa Fe and there was no such noise.
The rear seat jiggle is also irritating. I've experimented with putting the seat backs at different angles and nothing really works.
The vehicle has about 500KM left on its 100,000KM warranty.
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How to remove the interior trim on the rear quarter panel?
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2008 Ford Explorer with 100,000 miles on it. My wife's car, and the last couple of times I've driven it I get a whiff of gasoline every now and then. I've looked at the engine and underneath the vehicle and have found no visible signs of a leak. Last night I walked by the car and smelled gasoline around the driver's rear quarter-panel. That is the opposite side of the fuel tank filler tube but it makes me think it could be fuel tank related. Where to start looking? Maybe a pin-hole in a line somewhere? Fuel filter? Fuel pump?
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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I have a 2010 4Dr GTI and have a strange and simple problem. About a week ago when I was washing my car I noticed I was missing the small oval cover that is in the wheel well that gives you access to the fog light bulbs etc. I had never noticed if they were ever there, but remembered seeing them in a picture here on the vortex.
When I walked around to the other side to clean the other wheel I noticed that that cover on the other side was also missing. I thought I had them before because I think I would have noticed a gaping fist sized hole in my finder liner, but the chances of them both coming out seemed improbable so I just figured I wasn't as observative as I thought I was.
I called the dealer and ordered two new covers, one for each side. A few days later they came in, I picked them up, and put them in. They were cheap enough and it was easier than bringing the car in for service. After I put them both in I decided to removed one just to see how snug they fit. They fit fairly tightly and I went on to think that they just did not come with the car. Now 3 days later both pieces are gone again!
In the last three days my car has been driven about 150miles. Mostly city driving no speeds higher than about 55. I do not think they are being blown or sucked out by pressure. We have some of the worst streets in the country down here in New Orleans but I don't think the bumps could shake it loose. I checked underneath my front bumper to make sure I had not hit a dip hard and scraped and I have not. the whole under-tray etc is in immaculate shape still.
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The horn on my 2010 golf recently went out, so I'm thinking that one of two things happened. Before the horn went out completely, one tone died, then about two months later it stopped working completely. When I press the horn, I hear a click coming from the dash. So, I think it's either a bad relay or both horns went out. How likely is it that both horns go out within a few months of each other?
Anyway, I bought a new horn relay, but how to access the relay panel located in the dash. How to remove the dash sections, or is there a good write up?
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If the driver's side fender liner is supposed to have an access panel cover? I was swapping out my side markers today and noticed that my passenger's side has one but not the driver's side. Didn't think to check for something like that during delivery although from looking at the one from the passenger's side, it doesn't seem hard to believe that it could have fallen out due to spirited driving.
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I just identified an annoying squeak as the right side of the tailgate, right at the hinge, rubbing on the section of the rear passenger side quarter panel (one with FX4 decal) where it curls around to the rear. Any way to easily adjust the tailgate slightly to the drivers side? When the tailgate is up, the gap is noticeably smaller on the passenger side, and when down, the edge of the tailgate rubs the edge of the quarter panel, paint to paint.
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I just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.
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I don't see how the panel below the steering wheel opens to access the ODB port to try out Carista. I played around with the little plastic piece that sticks out and tugged without luck. I could find any YouTube videos either.
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One thing I noticed when I was checking out the R is the lever came off rather easy.
I put it back on. This happened on both sides.
Is this normal? Would I want to Super Glue it?
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So I had put a 12 in. Subwoofer in a couple of months ago in my trunk, and on certain bass notes I get this rattling. I found out what it is, in the sedan version, it's the rear panel right below the back window and behind the seats. If I push it down have and inch or put some pressure it stops and everything sounds amazing! How to get it to stop?
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95 850... What is the magic trick to getting access to the bottom section of the fuse panel under the hood. I have removed the 4 torx on the black cover, then the 3 gold torx, then the screws holding down the incoming cable bunches. But no matter how hard I try I can only pull the white fuse panel up a certain amount, I can get it to pivot on the lower fuse tray, but can not seem to be able to figure out how to either pull the lot or disconnect the top part from the bottom part - so as to move the top part out the way! There just does not seem enough give in the wires....
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How to access the fuse panel inside car under drivers side can't seem to get it open
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I have a small dent on the rear door edge. How do they repair those dents? Do I need to go to the body shop or just a rubber hummer and touch up paint? The paid on the edge is gone and metal edge is showing, scratched.
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How do I remove the passenger side rear door panel to gain access to the bottom of the window to jam it in the closed position, 2004 Jeep GC. Window regulator cable broke, window slid down, I pushed the window up & shimmed it with a door stop to keep it up. Replacing the regulator & cable is very expensive & I don't care if the window works or not. I removed a screw from behind the inside door handle & from the grip cup (used to close the door) & pulled the top of the panel about 2 inches away from the door. It appears that something beside the snap-in clips is preventing the rest of the panel from popping off.
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My MY2012 Passat 2.5 SE currently at 37k miles all of a sudden is showing clear coat peeling near the trunk/rear panel area. Car is a CPO and clean carfax (no accidents) and currently still under warranty. Planning on taking it back to the dealership and hopefully start a case for warranty work under VWoA.
I've never encountered clearcoat failure this early on, case in point my B5 (MY1999) still has excellent clear coat uniformity despite the paint/body being 17+ years old.
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I was under my car the other day and i noticed this dent in the rear of the subframe, just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. I didn't see damage anywhere else. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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I am having trouble removing the rear passengers side panel. Whoever owned the car before me must have removed it and not put in back on properly, its way off aligned. You can see in the pics exactly what I am talking about. I tried to remove the panel last night and was having issues and thought i was going to break something. I don't want to snap any clips off and not have the panel fit back on properly. How this panel is properly removed?
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