Golf/GTI VI :: Car Won't Disengage Park
Mar 26, 2012
I should have gotten a stick but I preferred an auto for the hills of SF. I was able to get the plastic gear cover off and use the manual override to get in gear. Reading around it seems like there could be some relay (brake or e-brake) that is not working, but couldn't figure out where that would be.
I'm still under warranty (28k mi) so going to take it to the dealer to fix. After I drove it back home ~50mi it looks like the problem fixed itself.
PS- when I parked I was on flat ground, steering column/wheel was not locked and I had my foot on the brake, park would still not disengage.
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My 2008 FX4 won't disengage from park without depressing the manual release (white button). Center console shifter interlock. All I need to know is the part number for that solenoid. None of my local parts stores have a clue and I don't trust my local stealerships.
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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I've had this problem a couple times now. I start the car in the garage, take the parking brake off and try to move forward. Car does not move, but inches forward like I still have had the parking brake on. I double check, it's off. And to state the obvious, I do not have my foot on the brake.
I think maybe it's hill assist, though my garage barely has an incline that probably wouldn't trigger hill assist. I try to put it in different gears and attempt to accelerate in reverse, same thing.
So, that leads me to believe, are my brakes stuck? I steadily accelerate and the car finally budges. I hear a loud "POP-TWANG!!" under the car like I just popped the parking brake. The car lurches forward and I drive out of the garage normally.
I don't hear or see any other performance issues after this under normal city driving. This was after the car was not used and was in the garage overnight or longer. I did drive a few hundred miles the day before but not under significant load or stress on the car.
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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I don't really know how to describe the sound but whenever I stop and set the parking brake, the car makes a funny noise that kinda sounds like wobbling. It does this when I disengage it before I take off again as well. What causes this?
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My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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Get a rattling sound when in park and when it warms up after a little drive it goes away, When a gear is engaged the noise goes away.
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I have a 2002 Golf GLS. About a week ago I was driving around like a raped ape and spilled some soda down the gear shifter. I cleaned it up and didn't think anything of it. Recently, now that it's been getting colder out I found that my car doesn't want to shift out of park when I turn it on. No worries, just did the ("Step on the brake pedal five times,
hold the brake pedal down, start the car, shut off the car, turn the key a quarter turn, move the shift lever between neutral & drive, start the car and then you can move it into drive.") and shifted into gear fine.
[URL]............................
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I have this rattle from the tranny at idle in park. If I blip the throttle it goes away. I'm guessing a heat shield vibrating or something....I seem to recall my Corrado having a similar sound at idle.
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Want to replace my park light bulbs (the wedge bulbs housed in the high beam lens) with leds but unsure how to get these things out? They have a black plastic tab on the back of the bulb fitting which I assume is to aid removal but do you need to twist then pull or just pull straight out? They look rather flimsy so don't want risk breakage ...
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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I just put new seals in both front hubs because they were leaking. Now I have good readings when vacuum is applied. When I switch to 4wd the vacuum in hubs goes to about 15 in hg for about 30 seconds or so and my 4wd engages. After the 30 seconds the vacuum is released, I believe that is normal.
Now though my 4wd will not disengage. I get no vacuum pulse when I switch to 2wd, gauge stays at 0 in hg. I'm pretty sure a 5 in hg or so vacuum pulse is required to release hubs....is this correct? Would I be correct that the vacuum solenoid could be the issue or its connection?
Both locking hubs are in great shape and I spliced a vacuum gauge between hub and frame vacuum hose to get my readings. I drove it for 10 min hoping the hubs would disengage but they never did.
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Getting a loud rattling noise from the front of car in Park or Neutral? As soon as I put the car in D/M. I have heard that the transmission is noisy in neutral, but just want to double check.
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So after putting my 2007 explorer in 4 high, it seems to be stuck that way. I can put into 4 low and hear it engage. When I select 4 high or 4 auto, I can hear the 4 low disengage. However, it never goes out of 4 high. The indicator goes off, but i can still feel it is engaged. What to do to turn it off?
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2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
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My 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
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My car shakes pretty good when shutting off the car plus when stopped when in park or neutral. Bought this car used with 3k, so I am not original owner. I believe (without looking) that I own #3887.
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