Golf/GTI VI :: Center Console Armrest Stuck In Fully Open Position
Jan 4, 2012
This morning I opened my center console armrest to tuck the iPod cord back in, when I went to lower the armrest it only dropped about 1/5th the total amount it would need to close. I fooled with it for long enough to know If I continue to apply more pressure something is going to break. The movement it has is smooth until the point it abruptly stops. I checked the owners manual with no luck, called the dealer service center which came up empty handed as well.
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I flipped my center arm rest open (2-button version in a V8) and it just is stuck in the open position now.
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Im looking to take this apart and redo it with a suade material aswell as the passenger and driver doors.. any diagram?
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Ok, I can live with little things like the drivers side pillar not being completed seated and flush, or the drivers seat rocking a little from time to time.
But the thing that annoys me the most is the center console armrest lid squeaking every time you lean against it. I drove 3 SFS's before I bought mine. All of them squeaked.
Any fix for this to stop it from squeaking? Besides going to the dealer and getting the run around.
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How do you remove the armrest storage part of the center console? Ive undone the two screws by the shifter and the whole thing shakes but it doesn't come out...
2011 se by the way.
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Since I purchased my 2010 Prius about a week ago the center console top never slid completely forward. It slides to about where the cup holder insert is and stops. I've taken the cup holder out and it still stops in the same spot.
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I have the 60/40 seat with fold down "jump seat" that has the 2 cup holders and console. In the down position, it squeaks something fierce on any kind of a bumpy/rough surface. On paved roads it's fine.
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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Today, I just picked up my 2014 prius. Basically, when I do a right/left turn on the car, when accelerating out of the turn, the steering wheel does not fully return to the center position (its approximately in the one/eleven o'clock position). Also, if I leave the wheel straight, and drive straight, the car will drive straight and not pull towards the side so I don't think its an alignment issue. I'm not sure if this is normal, or if its happening just because they car is new or just because I'm not accelerating hard enough out of the turn (I always stayed in the eco range with the HSI. )
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How can I reopen the lids on center console for the 2 primary can holders? The lids are stuck closed.....and pushing down on the center doesn't release them.
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Found out today the cup holder cover stuck open, button is stuck depressed so lid doesn't close, taken out this section before? I guess kids was having too much fun with it.
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When opening the center console at night, it is obviously pitch dark in there. I know that I could turn on the dome light, but 1. i'm lazy and 2. that still does not offer a whole lot of light.
I want something that will come on when I open the lid, and then go off when I close it. I do not really want anything on a switch. So i'm thinking about setting something up like the glove box with the thing that pushes in and the light goes out, you all know what i'm talking about. I would not think it would be too hard to wire up.
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I noticed today that my hood is not actually latched in the fully closed position - Hood sits like it's closed, but I can simply lift it up to the popped position without pulling the hood release. Secondary latch is still fine so it stays closed, but I'm in a bind:
So first question -If I cannot fix it, is it safe to drive as is 3.5 hours back home?
Second question - is there a way to get it to latch even temporarily, keeping in mind that the only tools I have are standard screwdrivers and a pair of pliers?
Latch appears to be functioning fine and I can lock a screwdriver in it no problem. I read some threads implying the latch might need to be raised, but as far as I can tell it's already positioned all the way up.
Pictures .....
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Toyota camry SE 2012. The sunroof is stuck on the open position. It is fully open and the motor does not make any noise. The fuse is ok. Nothing seems stuck on the track just from a quick glance. I am hoping to find a way to manually close it if it is possible.
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My darling wife just called me and told me that one of the people that she was transporting in our egg this afternoon pulled up the passenger-side rear sunshade and hooked it on the clips at the top. Then apparently he just rested his arm on the ledge and they heard some sort of "pop" noise. Then, when he unhooked the sun shade to retract it back into the door it wouldn't pull back and retract so it's stuck in the "open" position. I'm guessing it's a simple matter of popping off the door skin and resetting something that's popped/snapped off.
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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My driver's side air vent is stuck in the open position. I can coax it down with a piece of wire, and it will then (sort of) engage with the motor and move up automatically when activated (again with a bit of coaxing), but then gets stuck again... Not sure if it's the motor or gears/teeth on the vent itself...? Looking for instructions for removing the motor? Apparently it's straight-forward...?
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I'm going to be hard wiring a protech cell phone mount at the center vents. I'd like to run a clean install, and ideally tap into the existing 12v socket next to the shifter. It looks like I'll need to take a fair amount apart.
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I started my Prius and the Navigation Display open on it's own without me touching any buttons as though it wanted me to load a CD. Now it is stuck in the open position and the CD player is making noises like a CD is stuck but do not have a CD in the player.
I have hit every button to try to get it to close, no luck. It is stuck on the FM station I was listening to and will change stations or to AM, CD, SAT. I turned the car on and off several times just stuck open.
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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I am having trouble finding on how to remove my center console. Looking for some instructions, preferably without taking out the seats.
Due to the clear stuff flaking off i need to repaint it so I've decided to give it a go and feel clueless.
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