Golf/GTI VI :: Creaky Noises Coming From The Rear Of Car
May 2, 2015
I have a 2013 4 Door Golf MK6 with the following:
DG springs
225 X45 X17"
Hotchkis RSB ( set on the softest setting which is 90% stiffer over the OEM one)
Neuspeed Endlinks
About two weeks ago I started hearing some creaking noises coming from the rear of my car. I thought, I need to put some grease to the RSB bushings, but this didn't work. After a close inspection I notice that the sway bar was rubbing.
The RSB was installed about 3 1/2 months ago and didn't have any issues. What could be causing the problem? I am suspecting the endlinks are going to be culprit. the car is used as a daily driver. what endlinks would you recommend to get?
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600 miles on the GTI and when its cold the clutch creaks a bit coming out of 1st or using reverse. After its warmed up it does not happen. Is this something to be concerned about, or no?
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I hear a strange UFO like, bird like chirping noise coming from the rear of the car. The chirps increase and decrease in frequency but with no regularity and do not match engine rpm or vehicle speed. It will do it at idle or highway speed but gradually disappears. It comes and it goes when it wants to.
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2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that has a rotational noise coming from the left rear wheel. We just got it back from the shop where they replaced the left front wheel bearing and rear brakes/rotors, and the right/rear wheel bearing was replaced about a year ago. It's a thumping noise that speeds up proportionally to the speed of the car. Normally I'd expect a bad tire or warped rotor, but the tires are relatively new and we didn't notice the problem before we took it to the shop last week (though it's possible we weren't hearing it over the wheel bearing noise they fixed). Is it possible we got a bad rotor, or the shop did something wrong? Or could this be something new entirely (which would be entirely typical for this car).
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I have a 2006 Subaru Outback. When I start it, it makes a constant rather loud rumbling noise that seems to be coming from the rear of the car. I can feel a little vibration through the steering wheel, but when I put the car in neutral the noise/vibration goes away.
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I bout a 2010 AWD LS460 in July and immediately noticed noises coming from the rear and front. The rear was a loud thud going over certain bumps and the front is making rattling noises. I lowered the windows and went down a rather bumpy block and the car sound like the bottom is falling out. I took it to the dealer and they had it for 2 and 1/2 weeks waiting on the rear air shocks to come in. They gave it back to me and did not address the front. Now the service manager is going away for two weeks and wants me to come back if I still feel the need to have the from done. The master tech stated the front left suspension needs replacing. I feel they are trying to drag this out so they dont have to pay for the repairs. The car has 80K and was bought from Bay Ridge Lexus and is not under CPO.
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I have gear noise in my 2007 Liberty 4 X 4. It sounds like it is coming from the rear axle and is more pronounced under acceleration or decelleration.
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So I just replaced my upper strut bushings and bearings and there's still noises coming from the struts or idk what it is but its coming from up front and when I back up and turn the wheel or when I am driving down my drive way there's little bumps and once i drive over them the car just makes all this noise. Pretty much what else could it be? are my struts blown? or could it be something is loose?
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I am experiencing issues with front shocks RS2 Coilovers. I have this knock occurring from both front shocks. If they're set the softest, they're the worst...knocking noises over all small sharp bumps or sharp dips in the road. If I set them to full stiff and you drive it immediately after the ride is stiffer, but smoother, almost no noise at all, only when driving over roads that throw weight from side to side quickly will create the knock, but very light. However after a while of driving it just starts to make noise again as if they're unwinding on there own. When I check their position, they're where I left them. It feels as if the shock pressure bleeds until I perform the same routine and it feels tight again for a short period.
Its starting to annoy me now, car has 6000km on it and 600 km on the coilovers.
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I'm looking to purchase a complete shifter assembly (cables, plastic box, shift lever, ect. Not the parts that bolt to the transmission itself) so I can reverse engineer them without having any down time with my car. I want to make an aluminum box and shifter assembly to eliminate all the plastic components in the stock shifter mechanism. I'm thinking along the lines of a VWMS billet shifter mounted down low in the box so it isn't seen when a shifter boot is used. This will hide the really cool assembly, but I'm after function here.
I'm currently at 23k miles and there are creaking noises coming from my shifter assembly. The shifter mechanism has also lost the crisp feeling it once had when it was new. The dealer has offered to replace it under warranty, but I want to do it once and do it right. The OEM plastic stuff will not cut it.
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When my car is cold I can hear some noises coming from the rear hatch or rear bumper....
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I've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
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Ive been hearing some noises coming from the right side of the dashboard when I turn the heat on. Then last night, smoke/steam started coming through the vents with a strong odor. Popped the hood and there is some smoke coming from behind the engine as well. Sounds like the heater core but why the smoke from the engine? Temperature gauge reads as normal and I have no lights on the dash.
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Just installed them a few weeks ago, at first I wasn't too low, now that I am about 24.4 to the fender, the right passenger side creaks. At low speed over bumps, dink, dink dink..... and when i turn the wheel almost all the way to the side go up or over a curb it goes dink and then when i straighten it , it dinks again> Got the installing new suspension kit from dbc, and new ball joints on both sides. Only one side squeaks!
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So recently my R has started making noises that sound like they're coming from the rear end. It's hard to describe noises with words, but the noises are seemingly random except they occur more a lower speeds (5-15 mph) and I don't hear them at all above ~35 mph. It sounds like it's coming from the rear axle area, but it's hard to tell. The noises themselves are kinda like thunks, or pops or clicks.
The type of noise actually changes a lot as well: Sometimes it sounds like a popping noise a spring will make with being loaded/unloaded, sometimes it sounds more the thunk you'd get when a loose metal part shifts and hits another metal part. Sometimes is more like a groan you would hear from a large metal ship under stress from a wave or the like...
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I have Bluewater adjustable control arms, they have been on the car for about 22 months, and for the last few weeks they have been squeaking and creaking like a bastard, over any imperfection in the road.
We had the car up on the lift, and twisted the control arms, and it's definitely coming from there. I'm not the best mechanic in the world, pretty far from it, so is there a way to remedy this without replacing them? It sounds like I'm fornicating in a 1986 Caprice every time I hit a bump.
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I just picked up a 2011 Golf TDI a week ago and so far, I love it! I have about 600 miles on it now and I have noticed that the driver's side lumbar support is very stiff to turn compared to the passenger side. It is also making a creaking noise when it is adjusted and I can feel the seat compress slightly when I put pressure on it (say, when I shift gears or move positions) and it also makes noise when doing so.
Just wondering if this is a common problem, if there is an easy fix, or should the dealer take care of it. My thoughts right now are to take it right back to the dealer and let them deal with it.
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What are the different noises you hear little while after switching off the car? Also after keeping the car switched off for a while when you open the driver door there is a noise of fluid being pumped, same happens little while after shutting down the car.
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I've had a funny noise from the rear of my car for quite a while now. It's a snap/crack sound that comes when the car is twisted along its length, like something is releasing tension or something. For not quite as long a while, I've been convinced that it's a matter of re-used stretch bolts (I'm not the one who re-used them though) on the both ends of the shocks back there.
I hear this sound (sometimes I can feel it as well) when I angle out of my driveway, which slopes down into the street beyond. Must angle out to avoid scraping the nose, and must TURN into the street anyway. Maybe under those conditions something shifts a bit. I have a UNIbrace; I know that's not got anything to do with it (I had it out for a bit to test).
Have new upper and lower rear damper bolts on hand. but probably worth it even if this makes no change. (Rule out the easy, inexpensive things first, they always say). My Bentley notes "spring must be removed before removing shock." I'm sure this is because the springs keep pressure on everything nearby and we don't want to release that suddenly by yanking the shock out. Or trying to.
If I have the rear of the car on stands and aim to do one side at a time, I can place the pad of my floor jack underneath the trailing arm back there, jack just a little to sort of "hold" the pressure on everything and remove/replace the bolts easily.
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Car that would go clunk after coming to a stop. (don't recall the type of car) It sort of reminds me of what my car will do on occasion. Sometimes after coming to a stop for a few seconds my car's A/C compressor will kick on, kicking up the idle speed of the engine. From time to time I can hear my rear brakes grabbing harder as the car attempts to move forward because of the idle speed increasing. Could be that's what he's hearing also.
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