Golf/GTI VI :: During Cold Start Cycle Getting Misfires And Air Surge


Jan 28, 2016

Ok, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.

I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.

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Integra :: 94 Teg - Drop And Surge Throttle Cycle

A few months ago my teg started idling a bit funny. Its got a chipped ECU and has always idled very low (500 - 750 rpm) once warm.

In the past few months however the revs have started fluctuation or surging. Basically once the engine is warm the revs drop right down to nearly 200 - 250 (the needle actually drops off so its hard to tell ), then the engine bounces back up to around 500 rpm. It then does this non-stop if I leave the throttle alone.

Ive found that resting on the throttle tends to solve the problem as I'm forcing the system to run constantly, however when letting off the throttle (or dropping out of gear), she drops right down gets really ragged then bounces back up to ~500. The drop and surge cycle takes roughly 2 seconds.

Ive taken it to an auto electrician who sat on it for 2 weeks and eventually shrugged his shoulders. I've heard that one factor could be the O2 sensor, however another camp has said ECU and yet another said throttle sensor.

Details of the car are:

94 Honda Integra (GS-R model)
B18C (Gen 1) motor - Enlarged throttle body, Gizmo chipped ECU, better breathing with a pod etc.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Clutch Does Not Engage To Cycle Freon So No Cold Air

I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.

I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)

I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.

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Golf/GTI VII :: HID Cycle At Start Up?

Had the car for about a week, Autobahn with lighting pack, leaving home is set to fogs. So when its dark out and I have the switch in auto, obviously the fogs come on when I unlock the car, as soon as I push the button to start the car the headlights will come on for a microsecond, shut off, then start up again and stay on. This happens about 99% of the time and it can't be good for the ballasts.

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Golf/GTI VI :: How To Get Gauge Needles To Run A Cycle On Start Up

How do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?

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Golf IV R32 :: Cooling Fans Cycle On And Then Off Every Three Seconds When Start The Car?

Why recently the fan comes on when I start the car, then a few seconds later it turns off, then a few seconds later it's on regardless of outside temp or engine temp? Is this simply caused by a malfunctioning green coolant temp sensor? What type of electrical Gremlin causes our cooling fans to cycle "on" and then "off" every three seconds?!

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Passat (B6) :: 2.0T Misfires Sometimes During Cold Start After 6 - 8 Hours Of Parking

My 2.0T 06 Passat misfires sometimes during cold start after 6-8 hrs of parking. It happens very rarely. I have had the car for 4 years (bought it brand new) and the misfire has happened about 5-6 times. Is this normal? Just wondering if they get logged in the computer system so VW Service can see it? My car has got 47K miles on it.

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Volvo :: 1996 850 Turbo Misfires When Warmed Up After Cold Start

This 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.

Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.

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Tiguan :: Running Rough During A Cold Start / Random Cylinder Misfires

I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.

Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..

I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).

I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.

Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2011 TDI DSG Occasionally Will Surge When Cold At Parking Lot Speeds

my (new to me ) 2011 TDI DSG occasionally will surge when cold at parking lot speeds. You all know what im talking about. Ive found a handful of updates and TSBs that deal with it, but they said they cant apply unless they can replicate it. I left it over night so they can drive it cold and of course, they cant reproduce. I am gonna go back in 4-5hrs after it cools fully again and ill drive him this time. Annoying nonetheless.

Couple other questions: The car just got a 30k 4 mos ago. From prior records, the previous owner had the fuel filter changed at 20k in June 2012, then the 30k svc was done in Jan 2013. Should I be proactive and change the fuel filter now before the 40k or just wait it out?

Should I press for any other maintenance, etc to be done (car is at 35,900 miles today)...?

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Misfires Only When Cold But Fine Once Warmed Up?

My brothers car is a 2000 VW Golf 2.0 that recently started starting rough in the morning, when the motor is cold it will struggle to even turn on and will act like its only running on like 2 or 3 cylinders for a second and most cases stall, he is having to pump the throttle to get it to even stay cranked until it all sudden just starts idling fine and it idles perfect but still acts boggy if you try to rev it right away as its warming up, after about 10 seconds of it idling the motor can be revved perfectly fine and you can turn the car off and it will start back up immediately..

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rough Start And Idle But No Misfires

I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?

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Silverado :: 2003 With 4.8 Engine - Idle Surge And Stall When Cold

I have a 2003 silverado with a 4.8 engine. i bought the truck in the summer of 2010. no problems in the winter of 2010. ran great all year in 2011, then my block heater shorted out in the winter of 2011, so i wasn't able to plug the truck in.

We get some cold nights up her in alberta, but anything below -10c the truck would idle surge and stall, would do this about 4 times in a row then it would just surge a few times but stay running.

I had a buddy that's a gm drive ability tech take the truck and do a tone of updates for the throttle body and to correct idle surge and some other drive ability related stuff. i cleaned the maf, map and tps as well as the throttle plates. replaced plugs, wires, air filter and fuel filter. all this and it was still doing it, but it had to be really cold to stall.

wasn't able to replace the block heater till this summer. but now that its getting colder and dropping below -10c at night the truck is starting to idle surge when i start it up in the morning.

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My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?

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Buick - Regal :: Rough Idles And Misfires On Cold Starts

1991 Regal, 3800 v6.

So here's an interesting observation. When i turn the ignition to ON, I hear no sound nor feel any vibration from the fuel pump. Is there any scenario where a fuel pump fails to prime yet kicks into gear after a start? So, I've got rough idles and misfires on cold starts. Before I start replacing parts my diagnostic plans is as follows:

Remove and inspect spark plugs.
Inspect and test starter coil/distributor (still have to research how to do this)
Test resistance on fuel injectors.
Test pressure drop on fuel rails.
Test compression for possible small head leak.

I'm wondering, if I do have a tiny head leak that is letting in a drip or two of coolant after hours of the engine sitting, will I be able to see this on the gauge doing a compression test? I've never done one before and still need to buy a gauge, but maybe I'm better off just doing the other tests and if they all check out I can be certain it is a minor head leak.

My assumption is that I have a leaking injector; just trying to do things the proper way.

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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.

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I have a 1984 380SL and misfires badly when it is cold. It has to warm-up at least 10 minutes before I am able to drive it. What might be the cause?

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Subaru - Forester :: Rough Engine - Power Is Low / Surges And Misfires When Cold

We're talking about a 2002 Subaru Forester with only 80,000 miles on it.

This winter, the cold seems to have taken its toll. The fuel economy is bouncing around between 16 and 24 MPG and the car runs a bit roughly. Especially when it's colder (<30 F) there is often a lack of power/RPM when depressing the gas pedal. The problem is worst in city driving, but exists on the highway also. It doesn't go away during my 15-20 minute commute. For a period of a couple weeks, it was even easy to induce misfires (I think that's what they were; quiet pffft pffft pffft sounds during severe lack of power) by fully depressing the gas. But even if you half-depress and hold the pedal steady, the car will accelerate weakly and then sometimes surge forward. Other times it seems to be idling strong and running rich. Now that it's warmer (>40 F) the problem has lessened, but I've also started feeding it 93 octane gas and the car feels rougher than normal.

A year or two ago, I replaced the front oxygen sensor and spark plugs (prior to problem). This winter, I took it to a mechanic who couldn't explain the problem and replaced the spark plug wires.

Based on my reading, it seems like the only other most likely culprit is the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor that's mounted on the intake manifold. I haven't worked up the effort (and can't find my multimeter) to do an electrical test of the MAP sensor's output itself. I'm also not keen on just buying a $270 part without sound evidence, nor paying for ill-informed guessing by lesser mechanics (than yourselves, of course!). I also have a sneaking suspicion that the automatic transmission could be slipping -- when I drive with 2 adults and two kids in the car up a hill, it seems more underpowered than days of old.

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