Volvo :: 1996 850 Turbo Misfires When Warmed Up After Cold Start
Jan 3, 2013
This 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
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My brothers car is a 2000 VW Golf 2.0 that recently started starting rough in the morning, when the motor is cold it will struggle to even turn on and will act like its only running on like 2 or 3 cylinders for a second and most cases stall, he is having to pump the throttle to get it to even stay cranked until it all sudden just starts idling fine and it idles perfect but still acts boggy if you try to rev it right away as its warming up, after about 10 seconds of it idling the motor can be revved perfectly fine and you can turn the car off and it will start back up immediately..
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
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I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
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I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
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My 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
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Ok, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
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My 2.0T 06 Passat misfires sometimes during cold start after 6-8 hrs of parking. It happens very rarely. I have had the car for 4 years (bought it brand new) and the misfire has happened about 5-6 times. Is this normal? Just wondering if they get logged in the computer system so VW Service can see it? My car has got 47K miles on it.
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I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
[URL] ....
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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2003 Jetta 1.8T. My car has an issue when you're driving and want to take off. I try to step on it and the car gets stuck. There isn't a CEL and one doesn't flash while it happens. The turbo attempts to spool and then gets stuck almost like sputtering and then misfires. "Sputtering" can last anywhere from a second to until you let off the gas. If you slowly climb through the revs it doesn't do it but if you punch it you're guaranteed to get stuck. I don't have a boost gauge to see if it's spiking but I'm running out of money, time, and options. I've had my car at my normal shop and they can't figure it out and the dealer techs are stumped too. Oil was changed last month and I did a seafoam treatment before I changed the oil.
Mods:
- CAI
- Unitronic Stage 2
- 225 TT DV
- Techtonics 2.5" DP with high flow cat followed by 2.5" straight pipe
- ST Coilovers Maxed out
- Corvette Sawblades 17x9.5 square with 38mm and 33mm adapters. Front and rear tires are different tread, and size. Fronts are all season 205/40/17 and rears are a summer 215/45/17
- Fresh wheel bearings and custom Porsche 930 Chromoly axles
Things that we've tried:
- New MAF
- Flashing back to stock and reinstalling the file as welling as trying lesser flashes (stage 1, 1+)
- New plugs
- New coil packs
- New throttle body
- Boost leak test (no leaks)
- Front o2 sensor
- New crank position sensor
- Throttle body position sensor
- New N75 valve
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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My truck's been doing this ever since I got it when the engine is cold. Haven't brought it up to a dealer yet because I'm not sure it's a real problem, and since it only does it when it's cold I'd have to leave it overnight.
It seems to happen when the turbo hits a certain RPM. I got it on video but you can't really hear it until the end when I raise the RPMs a bit.
YouTube - VID 20100926 104950
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My 96 caravan started misfiring and then it clears ..and then it misfires.. if I get on the highway it clears after a mile or so.. and stays running smooth till I stop and shut it of , thought i got water in the tank but that was 2000 Miles ago ....it's old but it's My work truck...
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