I have a 2001 passat sedan with a vr6 auto. The problem I am having is when idling it will start to surge and sometimes cut off. The car will sit and idle fine and then just start surging and then idle fine again.
View 2 RepliesEarlier this winter and last year, the forum had discussed the occasional fast idle in the 3.6L. Symptoms include the engine idling at 950-1000 RPM and the car feeling like it wants to surge forward. I had the problem twice during heavy snowstorms in February, but nothing really since...until this past week.
The weather here in Chicago has been in the early 90s and I've had the AC cranked. At the same point, I've had the fast idle event occur at least 5-6 times in the past week. Almost every time it has occurred while moving in very heavy traffic. Have others seen something similar in very hot weather?
I've been dealing with this for some time now because it hasn't seemed to affect my performance when I am getting on it, but when I am at idle the rpms will surge ever so slightly and i can watch the needle on my boost gauge bouncing up and down. i have a WINtake on the car and it started ever since i installed that. I am wondering what this could be. I've already taken the whole intake out and reinstalled thinking i had a leak somewhere. even tried swapping my maf with a known good one off the lot on a brand new R.
I read somewhere that someone had their maf in backwards. could this be the issue? I don't have any power loss that I am aware of. in fact, if its down on power now, i would have a hard time believing that it could be much faster with what i have done to it. this idle surge will get worse when i have my ac on also. someone make me realize that I am missing something stupid and simple here so i can have a normal idle again. I am half tempted to put my stock intake back on to see but i no longer have the turbo inlet plastic pipe to test it with.
Why my Passat will not put out any heat when idling? I recently had some body work done (right front fender replaced) and it seems like this has started to happen...any possibility they didn't hook up some line...???
View 12 RepliesI haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
View 9 RepliesIn the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
View 17 RepliesI changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
When accelerating hard I seem to have to consiously let up on the gas prior to clutch actuation in order to avoid having the engine "overshoot" a couple hundred rpm between shifts. Is this normal for the 1.8t?
View 1 RepliesOn light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
I have a 2001 Nissan Altima. Recently it started to surge when I come to a stop. It doesn't always happen, in fact it can do fine for a day or so. But every once in a while, when coming to a stop, the engine rev's up to about 4000 rpm. It immediately returns to a normal idle, but I have to throw it into neutral to stop. Nissan said it was the idle sensor in the throttle body, so I replaced the throttle body. Still happens. Another Nissan mechanic said it could simply be that the sensor needed to be re-programmed. Did that, still happens. Today, it happened, but stayed at 4000 rpm until I took my foot off the brake. Then it returned to normal idle. It doesn't matter if I come to a quick stop or let it drift to a slow stop.
View 5 Replies2001 V10 115K miles
When I set the cruise dead on 70mph, the engine surges as if it's not getting fuel. I can set it at 68 and 72 and it runs great. Fuel filter was replaced 2K miles ago, and I just had new plugs put in, but it still does the surge thing. The RPM's don't bounce when it does it, but it the whole X lurches pretty good.
I'm not an engine guy so don't know what else to look for.
When I drive the idle surges up and down and stalls when i slow down.
View 1 Replies2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
Just purchased a 99 passat v6 and it has a low idle surge and stalls when coming to a stop.It runs fine until it heats up about 15 min. then it surges up and down and stalls.
View 1 RepliesOk, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
The title pretty much explains it. Coming home today started hearing a squeal/whistle while at highway speed - almost sounds like the brake wear indicator tabs that GM is so fond of. Thought it might be the brakes, but it didn't stop with brake application and continued after coming to a full stop. Also, surging at idle, which seems to be reduced when the A/C compressor is on. The squeal happens both with and without A/C.
View 1 RepliesSo my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
2001, 7.3 sometimes surges slightly on takeoff ??
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2006 Passat 2.0T FSI about 3 weeks ago, love the car so far. My only concern is within the last week i have started to have a little bit of a lack of power. The engine will give a surge of power and then kind of slow down for a minute then a surge of power and then slow down. Also the other day i started it up and it had a little bit of a rough idle until it warmed up, don't know if these are related. Has right around 91K miles right now.
View 6 RepliesSo, I took my 2011 Sonata SE in for service because I was having some transmission problems (18,000 miles). After starting the car and putting it into drive or reverse, the car would make a large clunk noise and surge forward or reverse. This happened only twice. I was also periodically getting some very hard shifts. They told me that they were getting an error showing a bad temperature sensor for the transmission fluid so they had to replace it. A lot of this started after the update. We will see if that fixes the problem.
View 33 RepliesI have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.