So I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
I stopped and when I started the SF the engine light stayed on. I shut it off and checked oil. Oil good. When I started it again it didn't start as swiftly as it normally would. Since I still had 150km to go in the dark I decided to give it a whirl as the alternative, like waiting for a tow truck, would be many hours.
Max rpm, about 2000. Give more gas and it sputters. Eventually nursed it to maintain 80-100 kmh at the 2k rpm. Since it was mostly downhill I continued to at least get closer to civilization. Found sort of a sweet spot and was able to maintain 100kmh on level ground and lost some on grades. Engine was running smooth.
As it turned out I made it home. Total milage on SF: 58,250 km. Guess I'll see what the dealer says on Monday.
So have my first code and its the P0088 error. Seems to be a reading that fuel pressure is high. I feel no loss of power or any issues when it throws this. HAs Happened 2 times in the fast 3 months and the last one seemed to clear itself after a couple hours. VW is saying its APR stage 1 even through APR tunes (stage 1) don't change the fuel pressure. Not sure if its a sensor issue, the start of a bad HPFP or simply a weird effect from the tune. Again I have no power loss or any other notable issues.
View 5 RepliesNext mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
I have a 2006 S60 2.5T with 40k miles. My check engine light went on and stayed on for two drives. Then turned off and hasn't returned for next couple of drives. Error code says fuel pressure regulator. Should I bother to bring it to a mechanic or since the light went off (didn't burn out -- it momentarily turns on when I start the car) should I assume all is well?
View 2 RepliesI am getting no pressure at the fuel rail. Relay seems to be ok, so I am assuming the pump just failed (in the driveway luckily). Before I drop the fuel tank, I would like to confirm I am getting voltage back to the pump. I cannot fine any wiring in or under the car going to that area! How to find that circuit as close to the pump as possible and still accessible without dropping the tank?
View 1 RepliesHow to reset and remove the error code on the tire pressure monitoring system?
View 5 RepliesI picked up a Haynes manual for the engine/head removal. It has the procedure for 2003 pressure release by unplugging the fuel pump and running until it dies. Unfortunately the car does not run. I do not know what to do now.
View 8 RepliesI was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
View 14 RepliesI had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
View 5 RepliesA friend has a 1999 Caravan with the 3.0L engine. He couldn't get it to start and to make a long story short, I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and they were good but there was no pressure on the fuel rail. Turning the key I couldn't here the fuel pump come on and determined the fuel pump was bad.
I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter put in 1/4 tank of gas and turned the key, and it turned over but wouldn't start. I can audibly hear the fuel pump come on for a second or so, and feel the vibration when I put my hand on it, but there is still no pressure at the fuel rail.
I've found everything there is to know about disconnecting the high pressure oil STC line from the oil rail on the early 6.0's, but I can't find anything about reconnecting them. Do you simply press it back on? Should there be an audible "click"?
View 14 RepliesWhat is the part number for the high pressure oil rail check valves for a 2003 6.0L? I'm referring to the ones that screw into the oil rail. I would like to avoid the local dealer if possible.
View 6 RepliesI've got a golf tdi with a tune and straight pipe exhaust, and after I hit about 115mph I get a system error code. When I shut of my car, it dissapears and when I try to find it with a code reader, its no where to be found. What's the cause?
View 6 RepliesI have 2008 LS460 done 30,000 miles since last few days. I have CEL and when i hooked it to a reader the code came out P1235 "High pressure fuel pump out of range" any one had this problem before!
View 3 RepliesLast month, I started my gti up and a "Start System Faulty" code appeared. The car started normal and drove perfectly fine.
I immediately took it in to the dealership and they could not diagnose the problem or turn off the damn warning! They released my car and said to come back in a few weeks.
So, two days later, the warning disappeared and I thought it was just an electrical glitch.
Fast-forward to last week, the warning light came back on and took it in again. I suggested that they take a look at the ignition switch and sure enough, they fixed it for me over the weekend by installing a new ignition switch and the problem is gone.
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
On my 2002 (AVH) 2.0L 4cyl Jetta I have a persistent P0420 error code: "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold"
I changed the oil, cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor, replaced the coolant, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor. But it's still showing up.
OBDII says it could still be:
A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S)
Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings
Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure
Cylinder misfire Oil contamination
Getting a fuel pressure to low fault code. What could be wrong! 2010 GLI....
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