Golf/GTI VI :: Flashing TPMS For One Minute Then Steady
Apr 28, 2010
Flashing TPMS for 1 minute, then steady = TPMS malfunction. The problem seems to be that the TPMS controller somehow resets itself wrong at some random point and begins looking for 5.5 bar (~88psi) instead of 2.6 bar (~37psi).
Here's the instructions for the fix:
I went into the adaptation I found in the Ross Tech wiki here : [URL] ....
All I did was enter the security access code (01503) then changed the values for each channel to 2.6 which equates to about 38psi. Once all of them were set to 2.6 bar, I saved and exited. Started the car and now I no longer have the TPMS error.
YES, the security code works for the 2010 GTI.
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I have a 2009 Camry LE and I just got oem 2010 SE wheels for it. Upon start up, the TPMS light flashes for a minute then goes steady and stays on.
I know there is a reset switch in the glovebox but would that fix it? I went from 16" steel wheels w/ hubcaps to 17" oem SE wheels.
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The issue is: when I start the Prius, the TPMS light blinks for about a minute before remaining steady. I have tried to reset the TPMS via the button below the steering wheel (knee-or-so height), but have not been successful (tried with the ignition in "ON" status, tried with "ACC", and as last resort tried in "READY")
My question is the following: Since I do not know all the history of the vehicle, how can i tell if its a sensor, the button, or something in the TPMS or ECU that's at fault? When I picked it up, all of the tires were a little flat (about 25 PSI).
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Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
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I recently had my tpms light turn on when I started my car in the morning. It blinked for about a minute and then stayed on. After checking my tire pressure and seeing they were all normal, I checked online and found that when the tpms light acts like it is for me, it means there is a malfunction somewhere, so rather than deal with trying to fix it, I went into vagcom to turn it off. I went to the proper byte/box for tpms and unchecked it. But the light is still on...
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I have a VW golf 2010 with original rims and tires. Suddenly the tire pressure light came on I checked the pressure of each tire and they are fine, but the light keeps flashing for 1 minute and then is on. I checked the manual and it reads malfunction in the system. I took it to the dealer in my country but they they told me they won"t bring this model here so I am out of luck. How to reset this light or what to do.
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So today I upgraded to a set of 18" interlagos from 17" denvers. My TPMS light is flashing then stays on (malfunction). Do I just need to reset settings via vagcom?
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I had new tires put on last week. Two days after the TPMS light came on steady. All tires including the spare had 32 psi in them. That's what is listed on the door sill. I added a little more to 35 psi. Same result. I finally bumped it up to 40 psi. 4 shy of the max. It's been 2 days and no change. Since it's was a couple of days after the change is this a coincidence or is there some reset. I hate to disable it since its my wife's car. Also checked the switch under the dash.
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Had the low tire light indicating a tire has low pressure, which I have had happen before and so inflate all tires from 38 to 40 lbs each. After a few tire rotations, lamp extinguishes. Except this time it doesn't. It blinks for a minute then lights steady.
Any way to reset it (didn't find anything in owners manual) or tell if its the sensor in a tire or the sensor element on car? Either way suppose will be a visit to Toyota repair. Oh well, first real visit for a problem in six years (other than for recalls), other than headlight replacements and oil changes.
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I did the blue wire cut-mod 20 minutes ago. I had a consistent blinking TPMS light. I cut the correct, blue, wire and grounded to a stud behind the kick panel. The light is now steadily lit. Was I supposed to disconnect the battery first?
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I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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2-3 times a month the yellow TPMS light with exclamation point comes on, blinks about 10 times, and stays on steady. It's been doing this pretty consistently since I got the car, with one exception. I have a separate set of wheels & snow tires for winter and those have their own sensors. When I had those on the car for 2 months, I never saw the TPMS light. As soon as I put the OEM wheels back on, it lit again.
So finally I went to the dealer today. I figured it was a bad sensor. Naturally the light wasn't on when I got there. They scanned it and saw in the history a communication failure with all four wheels. They called Hyundai, then came back and told me that electronic equipment that I'm driving past can set it off. They mentioned banks & cell towers, among other things.
I don't think this is my issue. I travel the same route every day. The light comes on intermittently, sometimes when I'm on a rural highway away from any electronics. And I drive by plenty of banks and cell towers without it coming on.
So they didn't do anything for me. I'm at 43K. My concern is once I hit 60K and the warranty is done, if the TPMS brain croaks, I'll be on the hook for it.
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So naturally I thought a nail had punctured a tire leading to a slow leak. When I got home I found no nail and the tire pressure on all four tires even but down to about 36psi.
I refilled to my normal of 40/38 and reset the TPMS with the button below the steering wheel. The light stayed on for a minute or two of driving then turned off and stayed off for my commute to work.
What I think probably happened is that I reduced from 42/40 to 40/38 recently without a TPMS reset. Then this morning the temperature outside was 55F and about 65F in my garage. When I left the garage at 5:20AM the TPMS light was off. I drive about 2 mile to the gym each morning and park my C for about an hour. This morning, when I got back in the car the tires had cooled to 55F and I guess that was enough to reduce the pressure far enough to trip my warning light.
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So I took my Elantra through the car wash tonight - came out fine. Went to the grocery store - no problem. Came out of the grocery store are the TMPS light blinked for a minute, and stayed illuminated. I carry a tire pressure gauge so I checked manually- all tested fine. How do I reset?
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Today riding to work... the little TPMS light (looks like a tire with and ! in the middle) came on - Started blinking for a minute then went solid. so I pulled off the highway and checked my tire pressure.. all tires were 31 or above.. (S/B 33)
Topped off all tires w/ air and went back on the road - light didn't go out... then on the way home, it went off... and it wasn't the cold.. It was a 'balmy' 20 this morning...
Owner's manual says it was the TPMS system malfunctioning OR interference from outside... 2012 Sonata GLS ....
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Happened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
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I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL. In late December, the check engine light came on (steady, not flashing). I took it to a local mechanic, as the nearest Ford dealership is a 45-minute drive away. He said an evap code came up indicating that there was a problem with the vent valve solenoid, not the capless fuel filler. However, he did not have the diagnostics to research it further.
As there have been problems with the vent valve solenoid, including a recall (for which we do not qualify), my husband bought and installed the part on Jan. 7. We both drove it several times since then, and the check engine light stayed off. But when I drove it today (Jan. 11), the light was back on.
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I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
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Yesterday I had a flashing O/D light come on for about a minute, a quick scan shows a P1747 code indicating a short in the EPC solenoid circuit. Poked around the harness this morning and found this:
I'm guessing transmission fluid shouldn't be there. Do I have to replace the whole internal transmission harness to solve this? How much of a job is that?
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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So I recently got an '11 GS350 awd. No issues with the TPMS until today. In anticipation of next winter I went out and got a set of winter wheels with tpms. Yesterday I decided to hook up my new Techstream and program the second set of sensor IDs. When my wife drove the car today the tpms light came on flashing. I thought that meant that one or more senders was bad. Techstream showed four unique pressure readings for set 1 but had an error code for a bad sensor. Holding the learn button under the dash does nothing.
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