I did the blue wire cut-mod 20 minutes ago. I had a consistent blinking TPMS light. I cut the correct, blue, wire and grounded to a stud behind the kick panel. The light is now steadily lit. Was I supposed to disconnect the battery first?
View 1 RepliesI had new tires put on last week. Two days after the TPMS light came on steady. All tires including the spare had 32 psi in them. That's what is listed on the door sill. I added a little more to 35 psi. Same result. I finally bumped it up to 40 psi. 4 shy of the max. It's been 2 days and no change. Since it's was a couple of days after the change is this a coincidence or is there some reset. I hate to disable it since its my wife's car. Also checked the switch under the dash.
View 5 RepliesAbout four days ago my TPMS warning light started blinking. Same tires and sensors have been on there for quite some time. The service book says to take it to the dealer, but I instead stopped by Discount Tire (where I purchased the tires) to see if they could look and figure out which sensor was acting up.
When he ran his sensor, none of my four sensors showed up as broadcasting at all! Now I know that all four of my sensors did not just randomly go out at the same time.
Many threads on this subject, however my lights are a little different
When it first happened, on start up, I got all 4, which went away after about 1/4 mile of driving
Next start up I only have the ABS, VSC steady on and the TPS blinking. No "E brake light" lit like before and as others have mentioned.
The dash lights stay on all the time, even when shutting down and re starting. My rear brake lights work normally. Disconnecting the battery for about 30m didn't reset them either.
Lastly, I hooked up my scanner (Actron) and no codes were returned. Have the same symptoms and it still turned out to be the switch??
I have a 2009 Camry LE and I just got oem 2010 SE wheels for it. Upon start up, the TPMS light flashes for a minute then goes steady and stays on.
I know there is a reset switch in the glovebox but would that fix it? I went from 16" steel wheels w/ hubcaps to 17" oem SE wheels.
The issue is: when I start the Prius, the TPMS light blinks for about a minute before remaining steady. I have tried to reset the TPMS via the button below the steering wheel (knee-or-so height), but have not been successful (tried with the ignition in "ON" status, tried with "ACC", and as last resort tried in "READY")
My question is the following: Since I do not know all the history of the vehicle, how can i tell if its a sensor, the button, or something in the TPMS or ECU that's at fault? When I picked it up, all of the tires were a little flat (about 25 PSI).
Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
04 r32 CEL just came on. 1st blinking now just on steady. Timing belt, coils, plugs, wires, ecu and then some done at dealer within last 3,000 mi and still?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
It's the same every time. forty minutes into a drive and the TPMS light starts blinking. It blinks for about three minutes and then goes solid. After two minutes or so the light goes off completely. Every time I check, my tire pressure is perfect. I carry a good analog gauge with me and monitor pressure obsessively.
View 4 RepliesI just got my car back from the dealer last night (the 4th time it's been in for service in under three months of ownership, pathetic). When I turned the car on this morning I got a blinking icon on the odometer. The icon is the same as the low tire pressure icon except the MFD doesn't show air pressure is low and the icon is flashing for the first minute or so. I checked out the tires anyway. When I tried to unscrew the valve cover the metal piece came right off leaving the inner rubber portion stuck over the valve stem. This was the same scenario for 3 of my 4 wheels. I'm assuming one of the fools from the service department put a death grip on the caps after refilling the tires (part of the "full circle service, tires/tpms had nothing to do with why my car was in). My question is, why this light is on? The pressure isn't low and there is nothing wrong with the way it drives. I'm stumped and don't want to have to bring my car back in. [IMG][URL]....
View 24 RepliesI have an Avalon 2009 with the TMPS indicator blinking for 30 seconds when the car is started and won't go off.
I think this might indicate an issue with the sensor? How do I know which one and how to replace it?
Also, I cannot release the trunk from the button in the car (by my knee) or the trunk release button from the remote.
Does the TMPS light blinking and staying on has anything to do with that?
In the past, when I had a rear signal bulb went out, I couldn't scroll down my window either. Once I replaced it, I was able to.
I wonder if the trunk being locked from automatic release methods is the result of the TMPS light being on.
A couple of days ago the TPMS light started flashing on my 2004 GX. This morning I took it to a trusted tire shop. They checked each sensor, including the spare, and found they were all sending a signal. At 11 years old, and they are original as far as I know (I've owned it about 7 years), the tech said the signal may be too weak for the ECU to pick up. He didn't want to start changing sensors in the event it is an ECU issue. Not sure what to do for now, other than leave it alone. Is there a way to confirm the ECU is good? Do the scanners tell how strong the signal is?
View 14 Replies TPMS light was on. It was the spare , added more air. Then checked the other tires, one was low too and added air. Now TPMS light stays off no matter what position the TPMS switch is in. The light used to come on when switch was in the 'wrong' position.
2005 GX470 66k miles
2005 GX470... Long time Toyota owner, first time Lexus with tpms. Light is flashing meaning a bad sensor from what I've read. Lexus wants $ to check and repair one wheel. Discount tire had a hand held checker and it found two bad sensors.
View 9 RepliesRecently purchased 2006 GX470. Great truck! Previous owner installed 20" custom wheels and tires. About a week after purchase TPMS light began flashing. Ckd all tire prs. including spare. All good.
View 2 RepliesMy A/C seems to be not working. Auto mode has fan blowing but only hot air coming out and the A/C light is blinking. Did some searching and performed diag and returned codes 21 & 24. Code 21 due to performing test at night. Have not been able to find reason for code 24.
View 14 RepliesThe afs light on my wifes 05RX has been blinking. After removing the sensor I opened it up and saw that it was shot. I ordered a new one from Autozone and installed it. The light now doesnt blink until I start driving it. When I first start the car the afs light is off and if I turn the headlights on they operate normal (starting high and cycling down). If the car is moving the afs light blinks and when the lights are on they are stuck in the high position. I tried the reset procedure I found online but nothing happens.
View 2 RepliesFlashing TPMS for 1 minute, then steady = TPMS malfunction. The problem seems to be that the TPMS controller somehow resets itself wrong at some random point and begins looking for 5.5 bar (~88psi) instead of 2.6 bar (~37psi).
Here's the instructions for the fix:
I went into the adaptation I found in the Ross Tech wiki here : [URL] ....
All I did was enter the security access code (01503) then changed the values for each channel to 2.6 which equates to about 38psi. Once all of them were set to 2.6 bar, I saved and exited. Started the car and now I no longer have the TPMS error.
YES, the security code works for the 2010 GTI.