Golf/GTI VII :: MK7 - Unsettling Noise Under Acceleration When Going Slightly Uphill
Jun 27, 2015
I have a mk7 with 12k miles on it (edit: Manual). I noticed this noise periodically and it is hard to reproduce. I haven't been to the dealer yet because we all know how that intermittent noise thing goes with them.
Symptoms: Accelerating (usually 2nd or 3rd) low rpms. If I am going slightly up hill it will make a sound like a metal ball bearing inside of an Altoids can. "Tack Tack Tack.' It doesn't happen all the time and sometimes the volume varies. I'd say it has happened to me 10 times in the last 2 months. It appears to be boost related as it is building.
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For the last couple of weeks I've been hearing a weird noise towards the rear end of my car when I accelerate, seems like it's worse when I'm going uphill, sounds like a box of shoes moving freely in the trunk of the car. At first I thought it was something in my the trunk but I have nothing loose, the spare wheel and all attachment are pretty well secure. The only thing that I can think of is that the dealership installed the F Sport exhaust to it, but not sure if that should be making that type of sound. Sound is pretty low but it still manages to upset me, specially since my car has less than 3k miles on it.
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Having issue with a 2003 jetta 1.8t. I bought it used and it seemed to run great. Sometimes going up hills i get white smoke for like a minute (probably in too low of a gear when it happened).
Happens on the highway sometimes too if i punch it to pass somebody (like already going 60, punch it to 80). I've read other posts here to get some ideas (turbo going bad, etc.) It seems to coincide with a lack of power or stumbling in the gear I'm in...
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Slightly shaking engine and rattling noise on acceleration,it happens when the car is hot and especially when the battery level is very low ,I guess is when as more load . If I accelerate and keep it steady at 20mph I can feel a constant vibration but goes away once accelerating more....like if you're driving on a rippled surface ....that is only when engine is on , doesn't happen on electric only.
The noise it sound like a tapping coming from the engine when slowly accelerating from 0 that goes away as soon I give more gas ,is annoying wile in the traffic.? Can the sparks plugs be the problem?they been changed 120k ago.....,I cleaned the egv pipe but problem still there. Like I said is only when the engine is up to running temperature.
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So I've recently noticed a noise from the front end. It sounds like a plastic to metal, or metal to metal. It's more of a clicking. It's not sequential, and I can not purposely make it happen. It happens when I drive straight, up hills, and sometimes in turns. It does not happen, when I hit bumps, get on the throttle, or brake. The car doesn't seem sluggish, nor does it feel untidy in the corners. I think it's suspension, but that would make a difference in the ride quality.
I've looked at my coilovers, everything is tight. I recently replaced my sway bar links, but everything is tight and the sway bar isn't loose. I removed my spacers, changed wheels, and the car still makes this noise.
It kind of sounds like something is hitting the firewall, or something is hitting the subframe. I didn't notice this before I did any work to the car. I changed the oil, trans fluid, rear diff fluid, and haldex filter and fluid. I don't think this has anything to do with my noise though. I do have a little shake at idle, kinda like the exhaust is hitting the subframe. That goes away when I'm driving, and is a different noise.
now that I think about it more, it just sounds like something is loose and making contact. Like a loose spring, or sway bar bracket. The problem is I've checked those and they aren't loose, with the car up, and the car down(on a lift) Nothing appears to be loose, and I'm not sure what to check from here.
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Every time the car is parked slightly elevated or a little cold when i open the door to get in, i hear this crazy whine noise come from the back, it keeps going even after i have started it.
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04 Touareg V6 ... Slow acceleration.. running rough.. hesitation during acceleration especially when going up hill. Engine light is on. P0300 is the computer code coming up.
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I have a 2004 Chev Cavalier with a 2.2. Ecotec OHC. Lately the car has started to stagger on acceleration. Particularly when going up hill. The weird thing is, it only does it after it's been running for 10 or 15 minutes. Up until that time it runs smoothly. But when it happens it feels like the engine bucks. Or hiccups. If I stomp on the gas the car will either stall or kick in and overcome this. When I'm driving down the road at a steady speed, or when I'm sitting still the engine will buck in the same fashion. Not steadily--intermittently. Once or twice every fifteen seconds. But it's getting progressively worse.
Now if I launch out of an intersection the car might even stall. When this happens I just turn the key and she fires right up again as if nothing happened. No "Check Engine Light" or trouble codes showing up in my Scangauge. I replaced the fuel filter just as a preliminary measure but that didn't solve the problem. I had the fuel pump replaced a few months ago as well but that ws before this problem occurred. No other parts or pieces replaced. Fuel pressure regulator? Spark plugs? Injectors?
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Not sure if this is called "sputtering" or something else. But essentially today all of the sudden my car would sort of jump ahead, as if I when revving it back and fourth on the pedal aggressively. Not sure what could have caused this. Today was an essentially cold day so that may have something to do with it. Also my car overheats so I have to put anti-freeze in it most days. For the last few days I've been just using plain water, could this be the culprit? Why is my car jerking around like this?
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My car struggles to reach 70mph, to the point where uphill on a motorway i come to like 30mph. also it has terrible acceleration where i struggle to get out onto roundabouts and sometimes when I start the car it doesn't start first time and the second time it takes like 5-8 seconds to turn over. it only has 65000 and its a 3 cylinder 1.0L vauxhall corsa. I am going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow as I was thinking that's what it would be but I am not sure.
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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My 20th Ann. Is jerking under acceleration. When I hit the gas pedal slightly hard it starts jerking. Every once in a while the CEL will flash on and off. I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, cleaned the MAF, and now I have no real direction where to go. Maybe it could be a vaccum problem...
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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My parents have a 2006 RX330, and I decided to see how their traction control works, so I tried doing a quicker acceleration on a sharp turn to see how it would react.
I found that the vehicle started to slightly tilt and beeped, making it seem like the traction control wasn't activating at all (unless its only function is to beep).
Is this normal?
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Having downshifting problems with REbuilt transmission. Is there a FIPL sensor for the 4r100? I was told to check all engine codes first, but i just have a EBPV sensor code, but removed the valve when I installed the GT38R turbo...
Rebuild:
- Tugger kit
- triple disc Billet torque converter
- New clutches and seals,.
- Banks Trans command module
... I also have a 6-pos tuner.. I had a Super chips tuner too and it has ALWAYS had the downshifting on acceleration on up-hill grades!!
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"Workshop?" Will there by cuties there? Will I have to participate in small group discussions? What exactly happens at these workshops?
I've had this happen to me at least twice now since I've had the starter replaced @ Stohlman VW in N.VA. I've had some good experience with them thus far considering I've drop quite a bit of money into their service: complete hvac rebuild, starter, replaced a couple of pistons, etc...
Before I dive head first into replacing the alternator, is there a slight chance that the 2 are related? I figure I could try & fix it myself b/4 my car turns into a money pit.
There's no real rhyme or reason when the warning light comes on, I do notice that I hear some sort of grinding noise under acceleration. If I'm in neutral & coast, the warning light cuts off. It's not throwing any codes that I know of. I've got around 77K on the car now.
Other things I've read I could do too. Check:
1) battery terminals
2) slip clutch pulley
3) belt & tensioner
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Currently on my 1.8T I'm running a 3 inch catless downpipe into a stock res and muffler, it's great noise on acceleration but I've been told and found through research that if I want idle noise and a deeper tone I should take out the resonator, my question is what's it going to sound like on a catless downpipe with the stock muffler and no res also will there be enough back pressure to start okay and not loose any power, my last question is what's it going to be like on the highway when I'm at high Rpms for a long period is it annoying or does it sound nice ? What about cutting out the res with a 3 inch catless downpipe
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I have what I think is a heat shield rattling at around 2500-2700 rpm. or maybe not? It's not that noticeable but it's driving me mad
Is there a more simple answer that it could be? Keep in mind I claim very very little mechanical knowledge.
I am going to my dealer tomorrow for something unrelated and I kinda want to get a head start when I go to talk to the service dudes.
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I am getting a ticking noise under hard acceleration. Dealer told me the exhaust is touching the heat shield but did nothing about it. It's driving me crazy...
I may have to pull the trigger on this Borla I found for 700 shipped and new. Trying to keep my promise to myself to drive the car stock for a year b4 any major spending. That's out, I can already tell.
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