Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 TDI Has Little Acceleration - At 3k Rpm It Doesn't Pick Up Speed Anymore
Apr 13, 2015
For the past month or so my 05 TDI Jetta has been having some acceleration issues. It starts good and when i start driving it goes ok (but not as good as it should) but when the car gets close to 3k rpm it doesn't pick up speed anymore. I recently had it taken into a shop where they fixed other issues but they didn't fix this one. also sometimes it will accelerate faster than it did before it had issues but then it just stops picking up seed. I have looked up this issue but haven't found a cause for it.
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My daughter has a 2006 Jetta and has recently experienced issues with acceleration. Merging on expressways and all of a sudden she can't seem to pick up speed and has to get over in the right lane because she is going so slow.
Been to 2 different shops, A neighborhood shop couldn't find anything wrong and neither can the Volkswagen dealer. No Error codes on the computer accept Knock Sensor. She's afraid to drive the car!
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AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
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It's not particularly bothersome, I actually kind of prefer it but i'm just wondering if its something I did, perhaps a sequence of button presses on the remote that made it stop honking every time I lock it. It just started happening out of the blue and now it doesn't honk anymore, started 4 days ago
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
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So my ac stopped working, well actually I bought the car in the winter and never realized it didn't work until the summer rolled around. The clutched pulley won't engage and I don't know why. I checked all the fuses and checked the the pressure in the system and its all good.
Here's the weird part through. I put my multimeter on the connector for the compressor and it reads 12v whether I have the ac on or not.
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With my wife's Prius, my key doesn't work anymore, wirelessly. I thought that putting the key into the slot would possibly recharge a battery in the key, but even after very long trips, the key will not unlock the car if it's in my pocket. I can only unlock or lock the doors by removing the actual key in the fob. And then I can only start the car with the key fob in the dash holder. I assume there has to be a battery in there, so is it replaceable by the dealer?
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I own a 2002 Ford Explorer and I need diagnosing a problem. Whenever I start to pick up speed it starts to buckle and I always have the 4x4 on auto and it still buckles.
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I would like to post this performance issue on my 2003 GX470_79Kmiles which happened on the freeway yesterday. The sequence:
1) During start and at idle/stationary, the rpm shoot to 1100rpm and stayed there for a while, i would think that it was normal since the engine was still cold.
2) Drove to the freeway, I noticed that speed is very slow to pick up. My normal driving experience was that at close/equal to 2000rpm, the speed usually at around 70-75mph. But there was a considerable reduction of speed at around 60mph at almost more than 2000rpm, plus a buzzing engine noise. I tried to really rev-up the engine but very sluggish to pick up the speed not even close to 70mph.
3) Drove the car to lexus shop this morning, top speed of 60 to 65mph and tried to rev it up to plus 2000rpm to pick up speed, but the engine noise is very abnormal.
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My key fob doesn't open the tailgate window anymore. No noise that it unlocked, nothing. I tried the spare fob, same results. What would be entailed in repairing this? I changed a tailgate door actuator a few years ago & found that rather easy (with YouTube) so am not afraid to attempt it. I've searched around the web & haven't found anything useful.
Also, I do not see a manual way to open it. Am I right in assuming the fob is the only way?
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I have a 2013 Accent SE and am having trouble with the trunk release -- it doesn't work. It looks like the part in the trunk may have come loose or something.
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My 05 V8 was even better power wise than my 04 up until I got it back from an extended 2 weeks at the dealer. It now seems sluggish on hard acceleration when in the higher gears, accelerating slowly until in third or fourth then 3/4 throttle yields little push, seems real flat and even seems like there's a miss. No warning lights, no other bad signs like smoke etc. Feels like it's running on 7 cylinders. You don't notice when driven casually, just when revs are about 3k in the higher (3rd, 4th) gears and you step into it 3/4 throttle so it doesn't down shift. I'm worried that when the dealer had it they really hammered it as it only had about 1500 miles on it, yet when I got it back the MPG rating was only 9 mpg, meaning they were getting into the throttle pretty hard.
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2006 Camry. Last winter, I ran into a pile of snow and got stuck. I accidentally switched gears from R and D without going to neutral and this is when the issue started. When I switch to Park, it won't hold anymore, it rolls (when uphill); I have to use the handbrake all the time. By the way, I have no issue starting the car, when it is in Park position.
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No matter where I put the selector it blows out the floor, the defrosters and the air cond vents, which I have to keep closed. It doesn't switch the air flow anymore. What gives?
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My battery died quick and my car doesn't start anymore it starts but it's turns right bak off I scanned it and code p0688 came out something about a relay.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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Last year I had an issue with starting my 1.8t Jetta Gli. Every couple of weeks, the car wouldn't start unless I keep trying or come back after a couple of hours. I then thought it was the cranks sensor and had it replaced. Unfortunately, the problem is back! The idle seems a little jumpy, car isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. It also doesn't seem to have a strong start. I can't figure out what it exactly is, and I don't want to start changing random parts. I was debating on perhaps getting a new fuel pump, coilpacks...
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So I just figured out why my radio won't pick up any stations, the person that owned the vehicle previous to me had a sound system in it, then tried to return it to stock. The problem is the end of the cable that plugs in to the stereo is mangled. It's not just the plastic piece that plugs in, but the coaxial plug itself. I don't want to splice it if I can avoid it...
Long story short (too late): What is the part number for the antenna wiring harness? Is it the standard golf harness, or is it different? Does the cable plug in to both connections in the back, or just one of them?
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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