Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1.8t GLI Doesn't Start Sometimes Unless Keep Trying
May 15, 2016
Last year I had an issue with starting my 1.8t Jetta Gli. Every couple of weeks, the car wouldn't start unless I keep trying or come back after a couple of hours. I then thought it was the cranks sensor and had it replaced. Unfortunately, the problem is back! The idle seems a little jumpy, car isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. It also doesn't seem to have a strong start. I can't figure out what it exactly is, and I don't want to start changing random parts. I was debating on perhaps getting a new fuel pump, coilpacks...
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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I have a 120k miles manual 2000 jetta vr6 12v. I was having check engine issues so i put in a reader and showed me problems at catalytic converter. I don't remember the code, and no longer have a reader...
I was told to replace the oxygen sensors in both banks as well which i did.
I opened up catalytic converter to inspect and now the car will get no spark, the engine turns, and the display shows engine stop.
I was also told to put the oxygen sensor further away with an extension cord but not sure if that plays a part.
Does the catalytic converter is causing it to not spark?
Could there be an issue with maybe a sensor at the crankshaft that checks for motion?
What the starting sequence and dependencies are or what failures I could have that prevent the spark?
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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So, the very first time it happened was the weekend after I installed my new motor mounts I am not sure if it is a coincidence or if there was something that I touched while installing that is causing the car to act this way. So I notice that it's more common on the wet days even though I have started to doubt this recently as well. The instrument cluster illuminates CEL and EPC for a brief second and the car feels like it looses all power and sometimes even stalls when at idle but then after that goes away it runs like a champ. Also ever since this started happening the car is really hard to start after it sits off for few minutes when at normal running temperature. Right, when it happened I tried to scan it and I thought it was the scanner that was not able to communicate with it but that wasn't it since I have tried over 10 different kinds now( that includes the ones that have scanned my car with no problem before). I did have the CEL to stay on once but I still couldn't scan it and it went away by itself or I have reset it by disconnecting the battery. Its really driving me crazy and I am stuck but not giving up on this car, I love it too much and it's been very faithful to me so far! I mean there was literally two days recently when the weather was dry when I drove the thing without the random occurrence of EPC and CEL but it still didn't want to start when warm. In fact, one time after work after it has been sunny all day it didn't want to start when the engine was still cold as well.
The things I have replaced or tried so far that have not repaired it are:
*New Camshaft Sensor
*New Crankshaft Position Sensor
*New Purge Valve
*New Coil Pack
*Took off and cleaned my Throttle Body
*Checked with and OHM meter as many grounds as i could find between battery and they all checked good(the main engine ground looks good)
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*New Coolant Temperature Sensor
*Checked that all fuses were good and seated
*Verified that the k-line is good.
*Able to scan the ABS module and radio through vag com so i know its something with the ECU communication
That's all that I can remember as of now. the car went through many stages but here is how it looks as of now.
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My 01 Jetta 2.0 started having issues a few days ago. The engine would crank, but wouldn't start. Wait a few minutes and it would start right up. I go to start it the next day and it would crank, but not start at all. I pulled the P0322 code and replaced the crankshaft sensor along with a new fuel pump, and spark plugs just to be safe.
Next, I checked for fuel and spark, which I have both. The car still won't start and seems to lose a charge on the battery pretty quick. At this point, there are no codes showing up. Could the engine be flooded from trying to start it so much?
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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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My 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
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I was 4 hours into a 6 hour trip (on the way home) and my air stopped working! when i press the AC button, it lights up on settings 1,2, and 3 but NOTHING blows from the vents (whether the AC button is pressed or not, nothing comes out!) however... when I turn it to "4," air blows full blast but the AC light turns off and only blows warm air.
thinking I need to check my compressor!
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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I'm looking at a 1999.5 MKIV Jetta to buy and one thing I noticed is that the CEL doesn't light up when you turn the key to the "on" position. All other lights light up except this. I'm familiar with MKIII's and it does light up.
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My 2001 1.8T Jetta doesn't want to shift into 4th (slips in and out) when the operating temp gets to normal value. It looks like I will need a full overhaul. Of course the overhaul price is worth more than than car is worth. I may be able to get a tranny from an 03 Jetta with a 2.0 in it. I think it bolt on but are there any other issues? According to this site the ratios are similar -not sure what R&P is.
[URL] ....
I will be getting a tranny shop to do the work. Is this something that is doable?
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So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
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I just replaced my evap box along with most everything connected to it (had some bad servos and replaced other stuff for good measure). AC works great now, but the heater still doesn't work. I've had this car 4 years and the heater has never worked. When I took the box apart, the doors were naked (no foam). Heater core looked ok, but thought it would be stupid not to replace it while I was there.
So, I was hoping this may cure my heater issue, but was really only looking to get the AC going. So, the car had been running for 30-45 minutes and while the heater was on, I went to check the heater core hoses, the pass side hose was hot, the driver's side wasn't. Driver's side goes to axillary pump and bottom of coolant reservoir. Not too long ago, I replaced the mechanical pump and t-stat along with other stuff (crack pipe, etc.). Thought I'd get everything while I had the system drained. Didn't work then, either.
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I recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
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I have searched up and down and i can only see people complaining about the reverse of my situation.
Is the Horn and the Alarm beep the same unit? Maybe a fuse?
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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I don't know what is this.. Before 30 mins everything worked fine, I installed a new LED panel to the interior light centre and happened this!
The dome lights doesn't work with any door. Can be the relay?
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For the past month or so my 05 TDI Jetta has been having some acceleration issues. It starts good and when i start driving it goes ok (but not as good as it should) but when the car gets close to 3k rpm it doesn't pick up speed anymore. I recently had it taken into a shop where they fixed other issues but they didn't fix this one. also sometimes it will accelerate faster than it did before it had issues but then it just stops picking up seed. I have looked up this issue but haven't found a cause for it.
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So my turn signal stalk doesn't go back to neutral after a turn.. also, I don't hear the usually " clicking when turning the wheel that you hear when it goes far enough to re-set itself. What controls this action? Its not the clock spring thing commonly referenced to the airbag airbag is it?
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