Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Coolant Flange Busted, Brittle And Broke
Dec 31, 2015
I have a 99 vw jetta the coolant outlet flange nipple became brittle and broke...its the smaller 1/2 size hose not the two larger ones. Not sure how much coolant actually flows thru there and want to know if i can drive it a couple miles to a shop without it hurting the engine. I believe it's bone dry but don't know and i didnt want to add water since it's 32 degrees COLD. Don't want the water to freeze. The part comes in this weekend ...how far can i drive , with water no coolant....(vw coolant is expensive).
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2005 jetta gli 1.8t automatic ( i know flanges are different from automatic to manuel) just recently found the leaking coolant flange. Can I change the flange without having to drain the coolant out of the system. my coolant is new because i recently had the timing belt/water pump etc done so its new coolant and i do not want to flush the system. also will i have to "bleed" the system if i just pull the flange of and replace it if that is possible.
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Bought a used 2000 Jetta, 2.0L AEG engine by the looks of it, 188k miles. Previous owner told me he did a bit of work on it, and acknowledged the coolant leak - have to fill the overflow ball about once a week. He said he recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
From what I can see it seems to be leaking at the outlet flange (see pics of rust).
Would any of this cause the water in the overflow ball to be rusty yellow (see pics)? Should I just go ahead and replace the ball and then the o-ring at the outlet flange?
I'm new to VWs, but am up for a bit of work to make sure it gets to 200k miles (bought the Bentley manual).
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I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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I have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
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2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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its cracked and its leaking i was tld its 210 dollars to replace it... what is the part number for this??? or is this not that bad of a deal?
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I think its a flange that connects to hoses, they want to charge me 140 to repair. would this be something i can do myself?
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The TigWig runs great, tonight on my way home from work the MFD tells me to stop and check the coolant level. I stop and check the level and it is below minimum but still some in the expansion tank. On the trans side of the engine there is coolant on top of the transmission. I return to work to top off the coolant, everything is back to normal. The temp gauge never exceeded normal operating temperature. Half way home low coolant warning is displayed again. Temperature still never above normal. I top off the coolant again. It seems the Tiguan is burping coolant out of a flange or sensor port. It burps and then reseals. Mileage on the TigWig just hit 148k.
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In the process of selling my mk4 gti 12V, anyways. this morning while taking pics I went to pop the hood and the lever (one by the pedals in car) felt really lose and it didn't pop the hood. I'm assuming the cable either broke or disconnected, oddly enough it was working fine last night. Is there a way to get the hood open without the lever? I know my way around a car, just have never encountered this problem...
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta 2.0 overheated and then broke down after making some pretty awful clanking noises. Now it will not start. I'm going to be doing the repairs myself (and learning a lot along the way).
The car will not start. When I try to start it, it makes a 'whining' noise, which I'm assuming is the starter. This is not the first repair I've done on her car. She wants to get rid of it, but now that I've done so much work on it, I've grown a bit attached to it. Plus I think I can save her a bunch of money in the long run If I fix this myself. Here's where I am so far:
I removed the cover over the camshaft pulley and had a look while my SO turned the key to try to start the car. I noticed a couple things:
1. There are no teeth on the timing belt.
2. The camshaft pulley still turns, but not continuously. It turns a little then stops, and then tries again. (Engine not seized?)
I have ordered a code reader which should be here in a couple days. With that I'm hoping to check if there's a compression problem. If so, I'm under the impression that that would indicate a blown head gasket, or bent valves. I checked the oil to see if it looks milky and It still looks like regular oil.
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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I need the part number for wiper rack. Stud busted on the passenger wiper when doing the ecu.
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I have a MK4 PD150 with the ARL engine and it's drinking coolant!
I'm no mechanic but I think I've narrowed it down seen as there is no visual leaks on the ground. EGR cooler or head gasket.
I've had the car about a month and the garage I bought it from said that it had been pressure tested so this makes me think that it would more likely be the EGR cooler? It's been sat on my drive for three weeks also as I've just passed my test after recently turning 17.
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I have an old chevy that I ran G11 in (used to be a vw tech so I was able to get my hands on G11 all the time) so to take advantage of the freebies that's what I ended up putting in it.
being hard to get a hold of today, I am gonna swap to green as I can get my hands on that now for free.
is it ok for these two to partially mix?? I won't be flushing the system, just draining and filling so I might not get every drop of the blue G11 out of the engine.
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So it was like -10 here today, and I've had a coolant leak which could be the crack pipe? It's coming from the center of the motor and covering the oil filter housing. Anyway I've been adding distilled water until I could get coolant. So today I went out and the coolant reservoir was slushy ice. So I open the drain and drained a bunch out then added some coolant while it was draining to work along with running the engine a short time with the drain open and that got it flowing out. So I drained just about all fluid and put the half gallon I had leftover of g13 . Tomorrow I will go get more coolant. So the question is did I ruin my motor? Crack the block or heads? Should I fill the rest with 50/50 mix? When I ran the car it held operating temp just fine but the fan wasn't blowing warm.
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I have a 24v vr6 and I have deleted my coolant ball (I should also mention this is a dry system, New motor and the rest of the system was dry). Now I have a moroso fill neck that i cut and 90, so it would fit in my upper hose. I'm using a spill free funnel that hooks to the top of the cap and allows me to have the fluid level above the motor . But when I run the motor the coolant looks like it boils out of control and makes a mess of everything. Plus my fans are not kicking.
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I know this is a common problem, it sounded like the coolant resevoir was the place to start so I replaced it today and I still have the low coolant light blinking, I don't know what else to do.
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Bought a MkIV for the fiancee 2 weeks ago (04.5 GLI 1.8T Automatic).. Great driving car, needs some minor love (really dirty, burnt out lights, etc)
After the first week, the coolant light came on
Had some G12 handy, topped it off (like 8-10 oz)
All good
2 days later, it came on again, added about the same amount
4 days later, it came on again, added the same amount
1 day later, it came on again, added the same amount
I am adding 50/50 mix, but haven't seen a puddle anywhere, Nothing looks wet, but then again its hard to see around the plastic cover ...
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When my 2000 GTI VR6 sits for a week or two the coolant will run low. There are no leaks that I can find. No coolant in the oil. The crack pipe looks dry. Nothing from the thermostat hosing that I can see. The carpet by the heater core is dry. Nothing that I can see. The thing that is funny is I can drive the car with it 100 degrees outside in Georgia and have no problems with the coolant getting low, or any signs of a leak, smoke or smell. The head gasket and every gasket except the oil cooler and oil stand gasket were replaced about two years ago. The heater core was also replaced at the time. I gave the front pulled loose so I can pressure test the system and look more today.
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