Golf IV / Jetta IV :: How To Remove Armrest Lid
Nov 28, 2010
Just put an OEM leather armest in my GLI. I ordered a new "sport cloth" lid from the dealer and was wondering how you go about removing the lid itself?
Took it as far apart as I could and don't see any way for the lid to be removed....
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How do you remove the armrest storage part of the center console? Ive undone the two screws by the shifter and the whole thing shakes but it doesn't come out...
2011 se by the way.
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I have a Bora trunk lid off a 2004 with the euro plate and lip my question is this how do I take my old trunk lid off because its wired in there I'm assuming its maybe a clip but all and all I just want to take the trunk lid off...
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How do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
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Removing exhaust shielding and replace it with some other insulator?
The reason I ask is I am looking at, the very least, removing the shielding over the midpipe section and muffler section. Looking for experiences (pros/cons) with doing the work.
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I needed to get part numbers off of my TCM for my 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T and thought that they were electrostatically welded on due to dissimilar metals. I ran into a retired friend that was a VW Tech for years and he told me that they are a tension fit to the shafts and the easiest way to remove is to grab the arm with your hand and press down towards the arm while lifting the area by the shaft.
I found a video on YouTube that shows this and it works : [URL] ....
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I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
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I tried to remove the double DIN monsoon unit using 4 OEM VW removal keys. The bottom went fine, the top they went all the way in. So after searching here and other forums, I know the tabs are bent. There were plenty of posts but not many were useful. I tried jiggling the radio around, angling the keys in trying to catch and even pulled the trim from around the radio to see if I could slide something in.
One post said he got it out by pulling apart the whole dash to get at the cage, which I don't want to do. The other said he brought it to the dealer and they could get it out but destroy it. I'd be willing to give that a shot to get this thing out, but not sure how to even go about it.
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I have a new hose I need to install because the one on now is cracked... I have pulled the metal clip down, but how do I remove this so I can install the new one? I don't want to break anything else yanking on it too hard.
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Completely stock, no swap. No motor noise when I click the buttons on forward, back, up or down. Nothing. Everything looks connected under the seat but not entirely sure. Fuse 1 and 44 are good on the side of the dash. This is for a 2003 Wagon with GLX interior and most upgrades from the factory. I need to move the seat in order to remove the center console/radio cage as it's blocking the armrest nut.
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i have a car with a busted out steering column (drunk PO lost the key and tried to screw driver the ignition to get the steering to turn so he can move the car). i ordered a new key by vin and i managed to find the tumbler casing(damaged) but all the tumblers (still in good shape). i have installed another column in the car now and i pulled the lock cylinder assembly with the immo induction ring out. id like to take the tumbler casing out of the induction ring and put in my old tumblers.
how do you remove the immobilizer induction ring from lock cylinder?
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Im switching out the bulbs on the front turn signal light today, I reach my fat little fingers in there and can barely pull off the wire harness that goes into the back of it. When I did this the wire coverings on all three wires just disintegrated I would guess from the heat inside the headlight. Wel there's a short from where they are touching and my signals don't work at all. my question is I can hardly even reach my fingers down in there too remove that wiring harness ( which is the shortest wire ive ever seen) is it necessary for me to remove the grill the front bumper and each headlight in order to access the wires better?
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I haven't been able to figure out after poking around in the car is how to get the damn rear armrest down.
Logic (and the owners manual) says you just pull the little tab and BAM...hello armrest. However, I've given it numerous solid tugs and it only moves about 3 inches out before stopping. I don't want to break anything, so I haven't touched it since...
So -- anyway...the question is -- is there some tab or something I need to pull or something I need to unlock to allow the armrest in the rear seat to come down? Or it is stuck somehow and I should just have the dealer look at it next time I'm in?
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We had it working when the we first purchased the car. Now it doesn't seem to work at all. We pushed CD twice to get to AUX, but AUX doesn't show up.
[URL] ...
We tried it with an iPhone and iPod nano (older one)....
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Ok so I don't really use the back seats too often but on a carpool ride one of my friends whos riding in the back mentions that the armrest/tray wont come down. Im like WTF so when I get home I realize it really is stuck and im trying to find a way to fix it to no avail. Is there something really simple that I am not seeing or is it really broken?
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This morning I opened my center console armrest to tuck the iPod cord back in, when I went to lower the armrest it only dropped about 1/5th the total amount it would need to close. I fooled with it for long enough to know If I continue to apply more pressure something is going to break. The movement it has is smooth until the point it abruptly stops. I checked the owners manual with no luck, called the dealer service center which came up empty handed as well.
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The material you rest your arm on when driving is worn out and I am trying to replace it. The armrest slides a little forward with a double plastic catch in normal use but I can't figure out what to use to get the two plastic catches to release and slide off so the new one can go back on. The double plastic catch looks to be about 1" in length at about a 45 degree angle. The two pieces that are the catches look like the ends of a clothespin. So I think something under there needs to depressed so the whole armrest can be slid by what's stopping it. At least thats what I think from looking at the new one and trying to picture in my head how it works. You can't force anything that is plastic because it will just break.
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Im looking to take this apart and redo it with a suade material aswell as the passenger and driver doors.. any diagram?
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2010 Camry Automatic. The little flip lid between the shift lever and the armrest. My granddaughter accidentally got permanent magic marker on the lid. I tried to clean it to no avail. At a quick glance, I cannot see how it would pop out but then I may not be looking at it correctly or with the right frame of mind.
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My rear passenger armrest is bubbling up just where the bend is. Probably about three inches. Make sure you check all yours out so it won't be a problem later. Just noticed mine not to long ago but I'm out of warranty.
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