Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rattle Snake Sound After Clutch Swap
Jan 20, 2015
2000 GTI all stock 220K miles
AEG motor
02J transmission
I just swapped clutch on the manual transmission of 2.0L 4 cylinder GTI.
Now every time I start the motor, I hear high pitched rattlesnake sound. It starts about 2-3 seconds after the motor starts.
The sound is coming from center of oil pan or downpipe area but can't tell how high on the motor's long block the source of sound is located at.
Check out the following youtube video. You can hear the sound at 9 seconds and it get really audible around 12 - 14 seconds and disappears around 21 seconds. I can hear this sound for the whole duration of motor running. The sound is not coming from the downpipe cover.
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2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
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I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
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I swapped my cloth seats for leathers today and the airbag light came on after... the seats were out of a 2000 golf, so I was expecting to have to splice wires, but, the connectors were the exact same on the cloth from my car and leathers from the donor car... so I just did a plug and play... I scanned with vcds and got these codes:
Address 15 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 909 605 A
Component: 1M AIRBAG VW51 02 0006
Coding: 12621
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
00592 - Seat Belt Switch: Right (E25)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter: Passenger Side (N200)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
I take it the passenger seat is the problem... I didn't clear the codes, I wanted to ask here first before I did if I need to do anything to connectors there or just the clear the codes?
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I have a 2004 Jetta which has the 2-wire seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 4-wire sensor for the drivers side. I swapped seats from an older style MKIV which had no seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 2-wire seat belt sensor on the driver side.
As of now the seat belt sensors are disconnected and I am throwing seat belt sensor codes for both passenger and driver side. I have already tried to clear the codes via VAGcom...took care of 2 ignitor codes, but not these seat belt switch codes.
Is it possible to splice in the 2-wires from the older seats to the correct 2 out of 4 wires coming from my car? What's the difference between the 4-wire and 2-wire connector on the driver side?
Also, reading through the DIY here: [URL] ..... It states that I would need a recoding of the Airbag controller in VAG-COM to deal with the airbag light. What this code is suppose to be?
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The cluster works fine in the car. MFA works. The immobiler does activate but my ecu has an immobilizer defeat so it doesn't kill the car. I'm not having any of the usual issues with cluster swaps. I'll get the immobilizer issue recoded later. My issue is with the fuel level indicator. I have half a tank of fuel and it is reading full. I've researched and found out the r32 has 2 fuel sending units and this may be where the problem is. If so is it a matter of re-adapting the cluster or is it slightly more complicated than that?
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I have had a FX400 installed for about 4 months with a solid flyweel(stock weight). Question is at idle the clutch will rattle? When the Clutch pedal is pushed in the noise is gone. When you engage 1st and accelerate through 1st and 2nd it will rattle till you get into higher RPM's. In higher gears the noise is not present or at least unable to be heard. Is this normal operation for an aftermarket clutch and flywheel? This is not the normal chatter while slipping the clutch slightly to get the car moving Which is only present if you accidentally slip too much. Otherwise there is no chatter under normal driving.
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Specs :
-SB stage 3 feramic clutch with ss flywheel
-Motul trans fluid
What exactly is making this sound? What do I do to fix this because its driving me insane. Noise is constant with clutch out. Goes away when pushed in. Rattle when at low rpm. This clip is me lightly revving the engine. This is something clutch/flywheel related.
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So when the car is idle i hear a weird rattle noise but when i push the clutch in the noise goes away.
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I have a 2006 Jetta with 85k miles on it. When I have the clutch in, going around corners to the left, I hear a very swishy sound that sounds like "wish wish wish wish"...It seems to be coming from the front. It can only be heard with the radio off. This started about a month ago. Seems to be getting gradually worse, but not exponentially.
Couple of details:
1) Recently (3 months ago) started a very break-heavy commute (moved from Boston to LA- had car shipped)
2) Had the breaks redone about a year (20k) miles ago
3) Someone misjudged the angle at which they could pull in to a parking space recently and scraped along the back quarter and tire but i've had it checked out and have been told that the damage is purely cosmetic
4) Recently was going over a speed bump (the wider and softer version known as "speed humps" here in the LA area) and thought i heard a sucking-"POP"...I was hoping this meant the sound would go away, but it didn't.
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I have a 2003 Jetta Gli , 24v vr6 with a 6 speed transmission.
Well this all started last night, started to drive, when accelerating , around 3k RPM I start to hear a rattle or grind. This only happens around 3k while accelerating. Once letting off the gas or pushing the clutch in, it goes away. Sometimes after 3k it'll go away.
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
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Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
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I got a awful tinny rattle sound that comes on sporadically around 3k RPM. It tends to only do it at through a small RPM range (2750 - 3250 rpm approx) and when pressing the throttle 1/2 way down or more (but not when less). This sound is exacerbated when I had the flapper mod which is a large contributor to why i went back to stock.
I am thinking the sound is caused by a heat shield, but without getting underneath and having a second person blipping the throttle, its hard to diagnose. Are these cars known for rattling heat shields? Is there a particularly troublesome shield that I should look at first ?
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So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
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Have a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
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The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
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Ever since I got my 3" TB installed I've noticed it rattles on the rear beam. I have tried wrapping the beam with exhaust wrap but it lasts for few days. What could I do to fix it?
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So I recently lower my car and my 3" exhaust started a constant rattle when I'm in the car. When I get out it stops. Been lowered for a week or so now and today was the first time that happened. I've read up and seen its pretty common when we go lower. Also some ways to possibly fix it.
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I'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
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