Putting a magnaflow muffler on the 99.5 2.0 slow jetta on Wednesday and I realized I don't have a rear GLI lip. Any single turn down extension off a muffler ? Or just run a straight pipe off the muffler ? Clearance with the rear lip issues ?
View 4 RepliesI removed the old muffler but it was severed at the pipe so there was no issue getting it over the rear cross member. I dropped the center brace to remove the resonator from cat back.
My question is, is it possible to install a new OEM rear muffler without a lift? I have stands but I do not know of I can get it high enough, or if I even need to get it that high? Not sure the bend of the pipe before it meets the resonator.
I am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
View 2 RepliesI was driving home and suddenly the underside of my car *popped* and it sounded like my muffler came loose. Very loud exhaust/turbo whistle.
Luckily I was very close to home and was able to pull in when it completely fell off and started dragging on the street. What part of my exhaust is this and what should I do to repair it?
I just finished fixing a ton of stuff on her and now she does this ?
Started out of the blue. I stopped for gas and when I got back in the car, every little light in my instrument cluster came on and has remained on for weeks. Car runs fine - everything feels normal. Ignition switch, maybe?
2000 gti VR6
2005 GTI 1.8T 5spd 97k
Pretty much every time I back up and turn, I hear one loud, single pop from the front end. Occasionally, it will happen when I start forward from a stop (if turning) but that's it. It never happens at any other time. I can't decide if it's suspension or steering related. Where could this be coming from?
I have gone through the front end thoroughly and the only issue I find is my passenger inner CV boot has begun to crack and has lost some grease. I would expect a CV failure to click anytime I'm moving and turning. Again, I never hear this noise under any other circumstances.
Our Daughter has added a 3rd Jetta to the family, A 2002 2.0 5 Sp with 123K. Runs like a top...looks great and figured a deal @ $2300... The man used it as a daily driver with about 3 mile run to work.... Oil was black, a little low, and the white sludge on the cap....Oil changed with synthetic (not sure what he was using) added thermostat and temp sensor to fix the cold running codes...and 2000K miles without a flaw.....
Until her oil light flashes and chimes....and she is 2 qts low....
Not a single indication of a leak found, overflow tank is clean, no smoke and the exhaust pipe appears normal, so I'm scratching my head now....
So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
so I noticed that my muffler started to turn brownish on my 2014 Corolla. I am worried because my car only has only 480 miles. Is this normal, should I be worried?
View 19 RepliesI would like to start off by saying I am new to this forum. I bought a 2005 Jetta GLI a couple of months ago and from the first day I noticed that occasionally when I would lock it with the alarm, the right turn signal would stay on. It was not much of a problem as I would just press the lock on the remote again a couple of times to turn it off. Lately it has become more frequent and annoying. I have to wait up to an hour so I can finally turn it off through the remote. I was thinking the relay probably.
View 15 RepliesMy camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
View 10 RepliesAny way to get this on the V? I had this on my bimmer and was really useful.. lane change, merges etc.
View 3 RepliesOur Pilot has started having an intermittent problem where it won't turn over, just a single click when you turn the key. The rest of the electrical things work. We recently had all of the sparkplug cables replaced 'cause of rats chewing. We had it towed to the dealer; they kept it overnight but it started for them.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion lifted 6 inches with 35" tires on 20" Fuel wheels and i notice when I make a left or right hand turn between 10-20 mph i get a single pop or clunk from the front end.
Also one more really annoying thing while i am turning there is creaking, sounds like body flex? maybe body mounts? Any issues with ball joints?
I've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
The last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
Have the APR RSC exhaust - developed rattles, specifically in one of the RSC muffler chambers?
I've had my exhaust installed for almost 6 months. About 2-3 months ago, I noticed a rattle from under the car somewhere. I finally got underneath the car a few weeks ago to check it out and the rattle is most definitely coming from the rear RSC muffler (right before the exhaust tips). I'm positive that's the source and I'm guessing that the welds inside for the baffles / walls that compose the RSC technology failed, and a piece is now rattling around inside. It only rattles at low RPM, but it's loud (especially in a parking garage) and super embarrassing.
i got this 24v vr6 that wont turn over. I've been rebuilding the whole exterior and verifying that everything looks intact. Here's what I've done to it so far when it did run:
- replaced snapped serp belt and new tensioner
- had a recently new starter
- apparently the alternator is somewhat new
- new coilpacks for all cylinders and spark plugs cause they really needed it
There is 11.90 v for the battery but if i try to turn it over a few times it feels like the battery is practically dying. I am thinking it may be an issue with the alternator so I even grabbed some jumper cables and it was better but still no start. I don't think its the ignition switch because it actually cranks. my only fear is the wiring harness is in rough shape all the way around the car. Maybe a bad MAF sensor?
My car will turn over but not start. I have thought about it being a bad ignition switch because that is what solved a similar problem on my mk2. My concern is that I don't have any of the other symptoms of a bad ignition switch such as lights going out and things like that. I can either push start my car or if I leave my key in the ignition turned half way on the car will start after sitting for about 15 minutes.
View 1 RepliesI have a '01 Jetta VR6 that wont start. Turn the ignition, all lights/radio work, 12.2 volts at battery 11.4 volts at solenoid and it doesnt even click. Replaced the starter, same thing. Have checked all fuses, everything looks good. Jumper from the solenoid to the battery and the car starts. Thoughts?
View 2 RepliesLast year I had a bad accident and my front passenger side tire completely ripped off. State Farm fixed it and all was fine. But About 2 months ago I've been hearing this single click on the right front when I was turning right and on the left front when I was turning left. Took the car to different dealerships, one barely looked at it and tried to charge me $300 for jacking up the car and tightening 10 bolts, the other said that my axle is cracked and leaking and recommended replacing my strut mount and sway bar links. So after those were done I drove it home and on the way back I heard the same noise but somewhere underneath my seat a couple of times when I accelerate and decelerate. The dealer took my car away for a week and a half to figure this whole thing out with state farm and forced me to pay for part of the rental car.
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