All of my exterior lights will not turn on and my fan on my A/C heat stopped working. I feel like it may be a fuse issue but the fact that they stopped working earlier then suddenly came back on, then went back off again within the course of 4 hours has me worried.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 Phaeton v8. The keyless entry feature on the exterior door handles has stopped working. The car neither locks or unlocks using the keyless entry feature. I tried using accessing the car with different key Fobs to no avail.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Accent Hatchback GS, 5 speed
My exterior driver door handle has stopped working entirely. This means gaining entry on the passenger side door. I'm fortunate enough to have a key-less entry so I don't have to manually unlock. I think the cable is broken.
I have an ongoing intermittent problem with my exterior lighting. Occasionally, the front right amber light and the entire right rear light assembly, along with the license plate light do not work. Sometimes, if I turn the car off and on or repeatedly turn the lights off and on, all the lights will come back on. I have had the car back to the dealer several times, and they even changed the light switch on the steering column, but the problem still comes back very intermittently. I have blue LED's light bulbs for the license plate and wonder if this could be the problem. There are no codes being thrown according to the dealer. I searched this forum but didn't see any results.
View 6 RepliesThe last week or so i been having problems when I go to start my car. The car wont turn over unless the battery is boosted. Seems pretty straight forward I know, DEAD BATTERY..but I have tried 2 batteries, one I know for sure is good. And again same things. Recently my interior lights stopped working. I read that is could be the courtesy control module, could this also be causing the battery to be drained? It only happens over night, when I go to school and its parked for 7-8 hours its fine, but over night it dies.
View 1 Replies3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
I have checked the fuses for the Hazard and the Turn Signals. Both look fine. I tried replacing the turn signal flasher (which was a task in itself). After all of this it is still not working. What else could it be? Simple short?
View 2 RepliesAre you on the trailer life website as well? I think I've seen you there. I noticed you had a Touareg too. Do you pull a Touareg behind a Motorhome? I was wondering if the Treg can be used as a tow vehicle.
View 4 RepliesThe right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
I have a '97 AWD and my brake light, turn signals and emergency flasher have stopped working. I've checked all the bulbs, checked all the fuses (under the dash) replaced the flasher just in front of the fuse box...nothing. All the running lights work, and the 3rd brake light above the rear door window works.
View 3 RepliesThe issue I am now experiencing is my passenger headlight would only turn on once in a while . The driver side headlight would work just fine both high beam light also . Today I opened my hood I verified the cable had a poor ground to the headlight I noticed a burnt smell after checking the cables . I turned on my high beams both sides turn on . Then out of no where my turn signals both (Left - right - back and front stopped working. Including the Hazard lights both front and back). The cluster would not show neither turn signals turning on ( left-right ) I noticed that my headlight turn signal on the passenger side would turn on but not blink it would stay dim only when . I pushed the hazard light button . My cluster would show the right turn signal ( no clicking no flashing arrow ). The driver side would not work either. What can I do to fix the problem? I know that I will not be able to drive the car due to the issue.
View 5 RepliesExperienced problems with their right taillight, both brake and turn signal light stopped working. This occurs intermittently. I have replaced my rear license plate lights with error free leds .
View 4 RepliesLast weekend my headlights, wipers, turn signals, AC, and horn stopped working. Through searching and another post I narrowed the issue down to my ignition switch. After taking apart my steering column and getting the switch out, I found this...
The house which is connected to the switch, with the one of the red wires obvious fried....
So I'm hoping this problem and I'm wondering who else has had this happen. When I took apart the ignition switch itself, nothing appeared to be damaged. No burns no broken pieces, etc. the metal post on the outside corresponding to the fried wire on the housing was corroded, but that was it.
I think I need to replace the housing since all that plastic melted and I chipped it away to get to the connector. I can't seem to get the connectors on the wire off of the metal connectors that are supposed to be in the housing.
Yesterday my 2003 VW Golf TDI turn signals stopped working. The hazard/emergency lights do work. Also, when I push the signal lever forward the brights don't engage. Does this sound like a bad relay or blown fuse?
View 6 RepliesDriving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?
The heat in my friend's 2003 V6 Passat Wagon auto has stopped working. Coolant was flushed . He say's he smells a burning smell when he drives it. The heat will be set to max but no heat will come out. These are the codes I found.
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Labels: 3Bx-907-044.lbl
Part No: 3B1 907 044 J
Component: CLIMATRONIC B5GP 0005
Coding: 17200
Shop #: WSC 05311
5 Faults Found:
00603 - Footwell/defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V85)
37-00 - Faulty
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
37-00 - Faulty
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
37-00 - Faulty
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
I have an issue with my 960 wagon. When I first got the car this past July, the AC light was flashing. I ignored it because I didn't really need the AC. I knew the heat worked fine, which I need up here in the northeast. However, a week ago or so the heat suddenly stopped working. It worked fine in the morning. I parked the car in a lot, came back about five hours later, and no heat.
I found the sheet with the AC diagnostic codes on it, and followed the procedure to get the codes.
[URL]........................
I'm getting the code 132 every time I do the diagnostic, and sometimes I also get 161. Of the three times on three different days I've done the diagnostic, the 161 only came up once.
In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor
Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To 12 Volts .......... 132
Solar Sensor ......................................... 161
I'm not sure where the in-vehicle temperature sensor is. Is it in the dome light? It says the "courtesy light fixture" in the docs, so I'm not sure this is the same thing. The dome light is not currently connected in my car. I have two of them in the garage but neither ever produced light when plugged in, and the heat worked fine all during that time, so I didn't worry about it. It was only until a week ago or so that the heat stopped working.
The temp panel controls work fine. Blower blows as needed, vents switch no problem. Recirculate actuates. No heat.
Yet another problem with my 2001 VW Passat V6 4Motion... This time it's the Thermostat.
My heat stopped working, and I brought it to the mechanic I always go to, and after a few hours of testing different pumps and hoses he's narrowed it down to the Thermostat. This is great it's only a 35 dollar part... BUT he says it takes a good 5-7 hours to replace due to the location. Is this true? He said the timing belt has to come off, which also means the bumper does...
He's not charging me labor for the initial diagnosis, since he didn't fix anything. (That's how he works), but I'm going to get charged for the 5-7 hours it takes to replace the Thermostat. My question is, is there an easier way to do this, or is 5-7 hours realistic?
I have a 2008 Prius. The blower for the AC and heat stopped working. I have checked the two AC fuses and they are okay. I used the touch screen diagnostics mode on the touch screen and it appears that the touch screen and the screen switches are working. Any other things to check?
How hard is it to access the blower motor to replace or to check if it is getting power? How much of the dash has to be disassembled?
Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
View 13 RepliesI have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.