Golf IV R32 :: Car Idles At High RPMs
Aug 11, 2012
So I've been having this issue for a while and I think I know what it is, just wanting to confirm it is the problem before I go fixing it. My car idles at high RPM's, at around 1-2k when I am sitting at a stop sign or stop light. I replaced the MAF sensor but that wasn't the issue. I assume that it is the throttle body or the sensor.
Also, I came out the other day to park my car in the garage and I saw a huge puddle of water where the passenger puts his/her feet. It was all in the carpet and I just dried it up. It was raining out but I don't think I have a leak or anything. I was told it might be my heater core that went out and that the AC is the problem.
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So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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Have a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
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I installed a CAI (CTS Motorsports) and I'm hearing some sort of resonating humming while driving. I also installed a 3'' turbo back exhaust (SPM) and did APR stage 2 tuning. I did not do everything at once, the CAI was installed 3 weeks prior to any other install on my car. I've been hearing that annoying hum ever since I installed the CAI. The humming doesn't happen when drive normally, shift and slowly increase the throttle, but when I stomp on the gas I hear it every gear shift around 3000 to 5000 rpm. When I mash on the gas and shift, it hums only for a short period of time until i shift again. I don't think its a high speed hum issue. I can easily do 120 and not hear a thing, but when i rev at high rpm's I hear that resonating hum.
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I don't own a VW, but my friend does, and she knows absolutely nothing about cars. She drove me home from a friend's house today, and I noticed her car was sitting at insanely high RPMs, even though we were only going like 60-65. The car was ranging from like 4500-5200rpms the entire way home, and the engine sounded like a lawn mower.
Don't know many details on the exact model of 2002 jetta it is (I'm a subaru guy) but it's an Auto. I was convinced she had it in 3rd the entire way instead of drive. I asked and she said it was in drive, but I was sitting in the back so I couldn't quite tell. Not sure how being in 3rd works on an automatic, but she could still come to a full stop. The car was pretty much constantly sitting at above 3k whenever it wasn't at a full stop though. Like, after letting of the brake at a stop light, and pressing the gas, it'd pretty much immediately flick up to 3k and never go below.
So, not sure if this is normal for these cars, but I thought it'd be worth asking since it would suck for her if this could have been fixed earlier. My subaru sits at 3k when I hit 60, and only hits 4k if I'm going like 80, so I just thought this seemed pretty weird.
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I can smell the exhaust inside the cockpit when accelerating and high RPMs, but in nothing in normal driving. I checked the pipes for leaking but all is fine.
My friend suggested to remove the catalytic converters that might be blocked. the car Mileage is now 145000 KM....
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My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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This all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
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I have a 05 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L engine(Manual) thats been acting funny. There's a couple issues im having with it.
1. Not matter how far the gas pedal pushed down RPMs wont go over 2,500
2. Car surges and jumps back and fourth sometimes.
3. Idles around 900rpm
4. Sometimes when I take off I'm able to get around 40 mph, and thats where it tops out at.
5. Shifting into 1st gear feels a little spongy
6. Also it can go all the way into 4th gear without dying and the top speed will only be at 10mph
Things I've done so far.
1. Compression test cylinders all came back fine
2. Replaced TPS
3. Checked to make sure exhaust wasn't obstructed
4. I got a stethoscope and listened for the ticking for the fuel injectors and also got some fuel injector cleaner.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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When I use my automatic transmission to slow my vehicle on steep downhills, the RPMs are much higher than when the engine idles because I use my brakes. The pistons are firing many more times per minute - so am i using more gas? Is the answer different for a standard transmission?
My "mystery vehicle" is a 2011..... outback...
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If I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
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So, among other things my 06 Limited is acting a little weird when I start it up. If it's cold, as in hasn't run in a few hours, not so much temp, it idles really high for a while. I wait for it to come down under 1000 before rolling out. It makes a funny noise too. Sort of a tick-tick-tick with a little whine behind it. What it could be? How much it'd be to get it fixed? I'm past my 100,000, 107,000 to be exact. Of course the issues pop up after the warranty is up!
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