Golf IV R32 :: Don't Seem To Be Running Smoothly - Thermostat Won't Become Level Until Driving A Bit
Jan 26, 2012
My car has 96,000 miles on it now and I have been having some trouble. 3 weeks ago I was having a lot of trouble cold starting the car. I had the oil changed and the spark plugs. I then had VW replace the black ECT with the green top one and the engine light went off for 48hours then it came back on.
After the ECT was replaced I did not have any trouble starting that car, but the car was not running right. I would put it into second and it will barely move. The thermostat does not become level until 10 minutes after driving it for a while.
I have an appointment in the next few days to have VW look at it. What else could it be?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Today, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.
View 9 Replies
My 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
View 2 Replies
I have a new thermostat and a new water pump. Why is my car still running hot?
View 4 Replies
I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
View 6 Replies
I recently noticed my 2005 F250 6.0 was running really cool, like barely making it out of the 170's. I guess it is time to replace my thermostat which I just replaced about two years ago. The question is should I replace it with another stock 192 degree thermostat or go for a 200 degree Mishimoto? I found where some where going to that one and it is supposed to make everything run better and the thermostat lasts longer. Any pros or cons to installing a hotter one?
View 7 Replies
The car came with a EIP Short Shifter. It is short, but seems to be having some problems. Is it normal to feel like I have to really try and get it into gear? I like being able to shift and not "muscle" it in.
I don't know how to put it. It takes so much effort that in a "track" scenario I do not see how this could even be used. Does that make sense?
A bigger a more worrying problem is that on high rpm shifts (5k+) 3rd gear will sometimes grind unless I REALLY slam dunk it in.
This is keeping me from really "driving" the car. My damn Volvo sedan could be romped on harder. It didn't fight me. Is this some crazy EIP thing?
View 24 Replies
Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. O2j trans obviously. It shifts not so smothly in any gear but stays in all gears fine. When the car is up to temp and the trans is warm it grinds going into second. It's ONLY when the car is warm. Shifts perfectly fine before that. And it's only when I shift from first into second. I can go from third to second just fine and I can pull out of first put into third without letting go of clutch and put it into second without a grind. I've changed the oil to Lucus oil 70w/90 gl-4 rated and there was absolutely no change.
View 1 Replies
This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
View 5 Replies
It seems like the first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway my car acts like it not accelerating smoothly. It's kinda jerky and seems like it takes a second to get the gas. I mean I know some cars are a little jerky after not being driven for a day or so but she is brand new, only a few months old.
View 21 Replies
It's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
View 9 Replies
So, after driving my car around for maybe an hour without any warning lights, I turned my car off. I tried to turn it on 15 minutes later when it turned over twice, sounding much louder than usual, then nothing. Tried again and just a single click. So I fear the worst and check the oil which is low but still on the stick and the coolant is fine too. I thought maybe the battery was dead so I tried a jump and that won't turn the engine over either. I put a charged battery from another car in and nada. I tried turning cam gear and also the flywheel pulley with a cheater bar and it doesn't want to move. I'm totally screwed right? That same morning I fiddled with the purge valves for the evap system because of a trouble code which O got to disappear. The engine also sounded funny for like 2 days only during ignition. By funny, it seemed to be louder than normal but no horrible metallic sounds or anything. Is it possible for it just to seize like that for no apparent reason?
View 15 Replies
Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
View 16 Replies
This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
View 2 Replies
I traded my 08 R32 for a certified 2013 GTI Autobahn 4 dr. and have noticed a few quirks or issues. I have had several Vw's and my wife currently has a 2010 Tiguan SEL awd. The car goes in on the 10th to see what the dealer can find out. I bought the car with roughly 9400 miles and it has 11,300 on it now.
Issue 1 - The passenger side door handle does not pull smoothly to open. When you pull on it it goes about half way and stops and then you have to pull it again or harder. I am thinking it is an alignment issue.
Issue 2 - When i first start driving after the car has sat overnight in the garage or in the parking lot at work I get a swirling sound from the rear brakes. I do set the parking brake every time it is parked. It is almost like the brakes are not releasing all the way or rub for a little.
Issue 3 - This is the one that is odd and concerns me. When i first start driving the car takes several minutes to come up to 190 degrees. I baby the car till it gets up to temp for the turbos sake. But oddly after it gets up to temp with in 5 minutes it is like the thermostat opens and it cools back down to 150-160 and then comes back up to temp. My wife's car does not do this and neither did the 07 Passat 2.0t. Is this common? When talking to the service advisor (who I have been dealing with for a while) he said he has never had this issue come up.
View 8 Replies
Have a 1996 Honda Accord that had a tune up ( new plugs, wires etc). also had a leak in a radiator hose fixed. About a month later, the engine started to over heat. Fluid in radiator was very low, but no physical leak. Filled it up and in 3 days radiator is low again. This time I noticed a soft brown buildup around the radiator cap. I checked the oil filler cap to see if the underside was caramel color ( head gasket leak), but the cap was clean. Now, it is running rough and will not idle when I come to a stop. Can't figure out what is going on!
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
View 8 Replies
I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
View 4 Replies
02 Jetta 2.0L that I changed the thermostat. o-ring, and cover on when I first got the car about a year and a half ago.
I see dry g12 coming out from behind the cover and my coolant bulb had dipped quite a bit in recent weeks requiring a refill. What is most likely the problem here in such a short period of time? I've only put like 10k miles on the car in that period. O-ring couldn't have seated wrong because wouldn't the problem have been apparent immediately back when I did the job? Maybe I need to re-torque the cover? Cracked cover?
View 1 Replies
Today I replaced my thermostat and thermostat housing. I happened to be unfortunate and cracked my dipstick tube (probably should be replaced at 135k miles anyways). I know I can get it at the dealership, but it's pretty far out of my way and wouldn't mind just ordering it from ecstuning or something.
View 4 Replies
