Golf IV R32 :: Got Dash Lights, But No Cranking
Sep 14, 2014
3 days ago I got dash lights, but no cranking. I hooked up my trickle charger that day and tried to fire her up today. The fuel pump primed when I opened the door and the windows moved quickly. Three days earlier they sounded sluggish.
I got her to start, but she wouldn't rev up right. Idle was tough to hold. Tapping the gas would sometimes increase revs and sometimes make it bog down. It went high idle (1-1.5k) on its own for a few seconds. Then went back to stumbling.
Finally the CEL tripped and she croaked. I'm remodeling the garage right now so I got back to that work without further troubleshooting. In the spring she ran like a champ.
I've never seen a car with a battery that was strong enough to start it run this bad. I guess it still could be the battery though. Not enough volt or amps to keep the ECU happy? The batt is older. 4-5 years iirc.
I have the older serial VAG-COM, but no old laptop to connect it to anymore. Been meaning to upgrade at Ross-tech, but haven't gotten around to it.
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This is about the third time this has happened to me now--at random times, on startup of the car, I get the TPM light and ESC light on in the dash. It usually takes up to a few minutes for them to disappear, but they have gone away each time. This is my first car with this sort of technology, so I'm not sure if this sort of thing is an expected electrical blip, or if it's something to be concerned about.
At this point I only have about 400 miles on my GTI, and have had it for a little over a month. I'm going back to the dealer later this week to pick up plates, and am thinking of having them check this, as well as a couple other small things.
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I have been having a problem with my dash lights intermittently going out. They are out for good now. My interior lights, license plate lights, climate control and glove box lights are out as well. The fog lights work only if my high beams are on.
I have replaced all 5 and 10 fuses. I am wondering if I have a relay out, I don't really know anything about them except their location. I'm putting a friends light switch in tomorrow to see if that's it. I have a euro switch.
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I just recently my dash lights went out. As well as the left orange light up front and my left running tail light (brake light comes on still). Where did you start to trouble shoot this?
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I took my euro switch from my R and put it in my GLI and than put my GLI OEM switch in my R. After doing this now my gauges, radio and window lights are not working in both cars. I checked the fuses they are good and I even bought two new euro switches and still having the same problem.
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The switch for my lights have been giving me some issues recently. When I switch it on its turns on all my exterior lights but my dash lights don't come on. If I play with it for a little switching back and forth it will eventually work but it's really annoying.
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My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
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I recently just got an R32, from a local guy in town. I love the car, and have driven it sparingly as I am still waiting on the title from the bank. As for now I'm doing the usual used car shake down.
I am having problems getting the gauge cluster lights to come on with the head lights. Sometimes when I move it over a bump or two it turns on. Sometimes the trick is to open and close the doors a few times it shakes the car into turning on the dash lights.
I know I have an electrical short somewhere, and I am not sure where to begin diagnosing this problem. Is it the switch? A bad connection to the gauge cluster? A bad wire? I've already pulled the switch and cleaned all the contacts. What else should I do?
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Car won't start this morning. Put the key in, turn it, and all the dash lights come on but the MPD flickers in sync a rapid clicking noise and I get an "Airbag Error" on the display. Lights, fans, etc work. This has to be tied to the fact that I totally blanked after going out to close my windows and left the keys in the ignition for approximately five hours. The key was in the ACC position, so I assume that led to battery drain on a battery approximately three years old. I've got a trickle charger on it now.
Just figured I'd check here verify that these batteries are not too temperamental/delicate for use with a trickle charger. Also to see if the general opinion is that running the car will recharge the battery or if I should just head out and replace it since three years seems to be the life of these batteries based on what I've read.
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On my dash the prnds lights flash constantly. The car shifts fine and the paddle shifters work too.
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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Noticed this afternoon that as it got dark outside, all dash and door lights aren't working.
The gauge cluster lights, VERY dimly, but delays by appx 2 seconds before coming on? Only switch light that still works right is the Red ring on the Headlight switch.
Again this is all lights, except lights in headliner work fine, gauge cluster lights very dimly with a delay?
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My .:R will not start/ stay running. I just put my turbo back on. It ran great when I pulled the turbo off to get it rebuilt. When I first started the .:R, it fired right up and ran okay. About a minute later it shut off like I turned off the key. I went to restart and all I got was cracking but no start. I checked everything over and tried again. It started but shut off about 30 seconds later. After that I couldn't get it to start just cracking. I gave up for a few hour to gather my thoughts. I went back and no start again.
So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried again. It started but shut right off after a minute and wouldn't restart. So I disconnected the battery and tried again. It started again, so I revved the motor to about 3500 rpm and let it sit there and about a minute it shut off like I turned off the key. NOTE: All the dash light stayed on like the key is on but the engine acts like the key was turned off. The ECS light stays on the when the engine is running or not.
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So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
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2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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I replaced a post-cat O2 sensor because of a code that came up last week. We didn't reset the ECU, but after driving it a couple days the check engine light went out. 3-4 days of driving and everything looked good.
Today the check engine light came on again and autozone read the code as:
P0136 - heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 (HO2S12) sensor range/performance condition
Explanation Open circuit or short circuit condition
Probable Cause
Poor electrical connection
check other service codes
Faulty Bank 1 Sensor 2.
Anyway, I thought it might be because we didn't reset ECU and some kind of calibration might be off in the system. So, I unplugged the battery in an attempt to let it discharge and reset ECU. When I connected the battery back up.... ALL THE FREAKIN LIGHTS ARE NOW ON THE DASH. Check engine... traction control.... tire pressure.... everything.
Golf TDI 2012
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My car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
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Just picked up a 2004 MK4 Jetta GLS 2.0 for really cheap.
As the title reads I have found some issues with the car after giving it a once over.
Dash/Radio lights - My Dimmer Switch is not getting power. I was wondering what the next step would be. I checked all the fuses and there is no issue.
Cooling Fan - I read about testing the plug and a CFM. Which should be done first?
A/C - I changed Electrical-Switch & Relay: A/C Clutch Switch and it did not fix the issue.
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There's a clicking noise in the dash behind the headlight switch and all the cluster lights blink on and off when I turn the key. If I try to start it-nothing! If I pull the key out and try again all the blinker lights stay on. Could it be my aftermarket alarm or something else? I didn't have much luck searching.
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I have a 02 golf and it runs great other then the reoccurring problem i have been experiencing. The problem doesn't happen every time i drive my car, but often. When i drive for a short period of time and i park and go to turn the car off, all the lights on the dash flash on and off, and most of my things restart. Some times i will stop at a stop light or sign and the car will just restart and turn off. I know this maybe something very small.
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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