Golf IV R32 :: All Dash Lights Stayed On Like Key Is On But Engine Acts Like Key Turned Off
Aug 7, 2010
My .:R will not start/ stay running. I just put my turbo back on. It ran great when I pulled the turbo off to get it rebuilt. When I first started the .:R, it fired right up and ran okay. About a minute later it shut off like I turned off the key. I went to restart and all I got was cracking but no start. I checked everything over and tried again. It started but shut off about 30 seconds later. After that I couldn't get it to start just cracking. I gave up for a few hour to gather my thoughts. I went back and no start again.
So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried again. It started but shut right off after a minute and wouldn't restart. So I disconnected the battery and tried again. It started again, so I revved the motor to about 3500 rpm and let it sit there and about a minute it shut off like I turned off the key. NOTE: All the dash light stayed on like the key is on but the engine acts like the key was turned off. The ECS light stays on the when the engine is running or not.
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Today, for the first time the back up lights stayed on when the car was turned off. What causes this? The lights went off when the car was restarted.
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Last night we went to look at some Christmas lights in a drive through park. There was a sign in the beginning of the park that said "Headlights off please." This seems to be impossible on the Touareg. I turned the headlight switch to off but the daytime running lights stayed on. After calling my salesman at VW, he asked many service techs how to do this and they have never been approached with such a question. They were stumped. The salesman told me that I can shut the daytime running lights off by depressing the emergency brake but that doesn't even work. The lights still remain on. Is there a way to shut the headlights off?
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2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
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Last night I drove to pick up my wife from work, well I got to the place and put the Touareg in park and shutdown the engine. The light switch was in Auto as it was getting dark and the lights had come on while I was enroute.
When I shut down the engine the interior lights stayed on, as well as the taillights I noticed. I sat in the car waiting for 10-15 minutes listening to the radio with the interior lights on. Was I draining my battery? Should I not do this in the future by switching the light switch to off from auto?
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So I had the strangest issue with my car last week. I was driving through my neighborhood at low speed (30 km/h) when the engine suddenly cut out. All the lights in the cluster turned off and I could not get the engine started again. It would not crank, there was simply no power to anything but the clock. I called a tow truck and when we were pulling it up onto the flatbed my cluster came back to life. I did not try starting the engine again however.
I dropped it off at my dealership. They've had it since last Friday and were not able to find a definite cause. No codes were found other than a MAF fault 1000 km's ago. They even had a mechanic drive it home to see if they could reproduce it on a "regular" drive. They did an ECU update because apparently there have been other cases across the country where the EGR valve will randomly open at the wrong time and choke the engine. I'm supposed to get the car back today but I find it unsettling that this could potentially happen again at any time.
I have had 2-3 times over the last 4 years where I got back to my car and I was not able to start the car. It would crank, sometimes even start for a few seconds and run really rough, then die again. Once I was able to get it started by repeated attempts, another time I had to get it boosted.
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My wife called today. After she shut off the car today (13F and 2" snow today), she "says" the car stayed on for 10-15 seconds before it went quiet. I'm assuming it was fan noise, since I don't see how the car can stay running if the key was removed. She didn't have the REST button set. What is "staying on". Haven't heard this before today.
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Have a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
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The cruise control and the overdrive off dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The cruse control and overdrive still work but the dash lights are not lit. It is a 95 4door explorer.
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I started hearing loud fan like noise today. It stayed on for a bit after the car was turned off. I usually wouldn't mind lil bit of fan noise.. but this was horrific loud.. I'm guessing I just need to replace the fan.
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I have an '06 Prius with ~170k miles on it. I bought an extended warranty, and it's scheduled for diagnostics for an AC issue next week. However, I was driving my wife to work when this happened ...
Cruise Control shut off, but the car handled just fine. We weren't far from our destination, so I got her there, parked it, and shut it off. I powered it back on after a minute or two, and only the check engine light came on.
I haven't checked the fuses yet (too dark and too high traffic where I am), and I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to cars.
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with the 2.5L four cylinder. It was driving and running great, and then one day it would not start. At first I thought that it might be the battery. I put my jump battery on and still nothing. I checked the battery voltage and it was good. Then I thought that it might be the starter. I crawled under the car and pulled the starter out. I took it to the store where I bought it just a year ago and had it tested, it passed. When the key is turned on all of the lights on the dash light up and the only sound that is heard is the fuel relay clicking on. The starter does not spin, click, hum, engage or make any indication that it is getting power. I put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt and I am able to spin the engine freely, so the engine is not seized. When the poles on the starter are jumped via a screwdriver the engine will crank, but will not start. Could a neutral safety switch or ignition switch that has gone bad cause such symptoms?
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Randomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
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I recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
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So naturally I thought a nail had punctured a tire leading to a slow leak. When I got home I found no nail and the tire pressure on all four tires even but down to about 36psi.
I refilled to my normal of 40/38 and reset the TPMS with the button below the steering wheel. The light stayed on for a minute or two of driving then turned off and stayed off for my commute to work.
What I think probably happened is that I reduced from 42/40 to 40/38 recently without a TPMS reset. Then this morning the temperature outside was 55F and about 65F in my garage. When I left the garage at 5:20AM the TPMS light was off. I drive about 2 mile to the gym each morning and park my C for about an hour. This morning, when I got back in the car the tires had cooled to 55F and I guess that was enough to reduce the pressure far enough to trip my warning light.
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This morning as soon as I started the car, the speedometer dash turned completely scrambled and the rest of the lights keep blinking/flashing. The car does turn on and drive. Upon drive the Maint Reqd and Low temp icons keep flashing. I think I smell something burning as well but I not sure.
In the video below you can see the scrambling. Occasionally it will just turn off. I tried the battery disconnect but did not work. I definitely think something is burning around dash but cannot be sure.
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So one of my headlights turned purple, and I get an "light" signal on the dash. It still lights up but it's purple. I have 23,000 miles on the car and I have had it for 1 year and 4 months. Also, should I get both light replaced.
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Having dash lights stay on with the car outline and other lamps even after turning the car off and locking the car?
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