Golf IV R32 :: Ticking Noise While In 1st And 2nd Gear At Low RPMs
Feb 13, 2010
Weird noise - searched .. couldnt find anything mainly because its kinda hard to describe it .. While in 1st and 2nd gear at low rpms while barely giving it any gas there is this "ticking" noise coming from under the hood .. it almost sounds like .. lets put it this way .. it sounds like a wire coat hanger .. tapping an aluminum can .. how about that .. I was told it is my flywheel bolts backing out and was a problem around 65-75k .. and I am at 70k at the moment... Should I just bite the bullet and get a new flywheel and if so ..[IMG] [URL] ....
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My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
[URL] .....
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I pulled out into traffic and let the RPM's get up there (6500 rpm's) and now I've seemed to have developed a weird ticking sound that is in sync with my rpm's. What could I have popped/broken? Rocker arm? I have the SUV sitting in the driveway and it makes the ticking sound whose interval increases as the rpm's increase...?
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I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2001 v10 with about 157k miles on it. Recently (within last 2 months) I am getting a ticking noise that is pretty constant. It doesn't seem to increase with rpms and I can barely hear it with the hood open- I hear it much better with the hood closed. It seems to start about 2-3 seconds after I start the car (when fan clutch engages?) and seems to be coming from the front middle of the engine. I do not see any broken exhaust studs. I do also occasionally have a ticking noise at 1500 rpms (only at 1500 rpms- not sure if it's related or not). I made a short video- not sure if you can hear the noise.
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I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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I bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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1.8t AWP, driving in any gear, and when i let go of the gas, you hear a ticking sound, as if you're riding a mountain bike and you stop pedaling. That kinda ticking. Is this normal? Have never heard it before.
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Just seeing if I can get some insight as to whether this is normal or not since my MKV R didn't have anything like this.
1. At Idle Ill have a ticking sound that speeds up and slows down on its own. It seems to be coming form the pulleys side of the engine and it doesn't matter whether the car is warmed up or cold. My engine temps have been pretty steady even with 100+ degree weather and traffic and visually cant see any issues i.e., leaks, cracked lines etc.
2. In first gear Ill get a rotating squealing sound when i let off the gas. The RPM's don't really matter and its definitely is more noticeable before the engine is warming up but it'll still do it at fully warmed up every once in a while. Oh yeah and it ONLY makes this sound in 1st.
As far as I know the pulleys and the majority of the car is stock.
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Me and my buddy that has a 2012 GLI where playing with our cars and i noticed that he is at 4,000rpms in second gear @40mph, while my car (2010GTI) was at 4600rpms....Both of us have 6 speed manuals.. What could cause this other than gearing? I don't think the gearing is different since to my knowledge both cars and trannys are the same...or am i wrong?
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I have been noticing that my GTI seems jerky (head bobbling) at low CONSTANT speeds on the highway during my morning commute. For example if I leave it in first and get the speed constant at 10-15km at 1,000 - 1,500 rpms I feel the car to be jerky. Even at low speed/rpm gear changes (1'st - 2nd). Anything past 2,000k RPM is fine though.
Is this normal? Or should I bring this up with my dealer and have them take a look at it. It's just annoying because I don't notice this in the city, just only in bumper to bumper highway driving at a constant low speed in 1st/2nd.
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So after my 500 mile break in I decide to see what my new set up is made of. Had the kinetics stage 3 and the south bend stage 3 clutch installed. Did my first launch...everything went great. Got just a little bit of spin and the car took off like a scud missile. Right as Im going to shift into second my Rpms go down fast. No weird noises no metallic sounds nothing. No fluid under the car. Only a slight clutch smell nothing crazy. Car wouldn't go into gear. Shut the car off and it goes into gear.
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What RPMs do you see in 6th gear, say at 60mph or 80mph? Consumer Reports claims the RPM at 60mph is 3020!
So I went to vw.com to look at the gear ratios for a reality check. The site lists two final gear ratios for the manual. "Final I" is 3.94 and "Final II" is 3.09. When do you get one versus the other? With a final gear ration of 3.09, I get roughly 2400RPM at 60mph. But with a ratio of 3.94, I indeed get about 3000RPM at 60mph or 4100RPM at 80mph!!! That's absolutely insane.
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I got a fuel cut tonight in 3rd gear at 6500rpms. First time, 30 degrees outside. Carbonio the only other mod. Looks like I need a HPFP next.
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I was driving earlier and some dickhead wouldn't stop tailgating me. I brake checked him and he wouldn't back off so I got pissed and floored it. Didn't watch my rpms and I felt it give like I hit a rev limiter maybe? I'm hoping that's what it was, it was like an instant loss of power for a brief second. Just was curious that I didn't brake anything. Driving a 2003 Jetta 1.8t. Manual.
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I have a 24v GLI with the O2M 6-speed trans. This morning while leaving for work I accidently let the clutch out while in gear and my e-brake still on. Heard a really loud bang and the engine didn't stall out (which it should have). Now I have no engagement in any gear and there is a very loud clicking that changes with RPMs. Did I blow the CV joint, or is this something much worse (blown diff, destroyed clutch, etc.)??? I'm border-line freaking out!
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Car in question is my 2003 Jetta 1.8t with the 09A 5 Speed Automatic. For the past 2 or 3 months these have been the symptoms: 1st to 2nd gear, very hard shift depending on RPM's (Higher the RPM's the harder the shift) 2nd to 3rd gear, not really hard but it kinda 'flares' the gearbut still shifts. All other gears are fine, although if you accelerate hard out of 4th it will have a little bit of a hard shift. I'm thinking either solenoids, or the speed sensor?
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My CW R has 12k of combined mileage primarily in D/S with some aggressive Topanga Canyon driving in M. While sprinting onto the 405 the other night a resonant metallic buzz/vibration was audible between 4800-5000rpms in 3rd & 4th gear! The sound is coming from below the shifter console area. I can't reproduce it in any other gears or rpm range.
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I have a 2008 Mazda3. The car has a replaced engine with 24,000 miles on it. The engine was put in before I bought the car.The car and engine run like a top; except at certain RPMs and when in gear. When I have the car in any gear (auto), the engine makes a rougher noise at RPMs 1400-1700. As I apply more gas, the RPMs seem to get stuck at 1700, then it will break through and run smooth 2000+ RPMs. The engine sounds perfect at all RPMs except 1400-1700 when in gear. When I have it in park and rev the engine, the engine sounds perfect at all RPMs.
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