Golf V R32 :: Installing Tampa Mod Resonator
Apr 29, 2014
Got my Magnaflow resonator in the mail today. Called up my exhaust shop and they are willing to tackle it but were wondering "where to cut" and "what about the internal baffles". Do you cut and shorten the center of the resonator by 7 inches or do you cut at one of the ends and shorten it from there 7 inches?
The picture I saw on TampaVW's thread shows it having been rewelded from the exit side (IIRC) but what about the internal baffles?
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I am looking at buying a MKIV R32 and it's in great condition, almost completely stock, and less than 50k miles on it. Although It has the flapper mod, and resonator delete mod installed. I know how to undo the flapper mod, but I was wondering how I could undo the resonator mod.
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Was driving to work this morning and my exhaust suddenly got super loud. I did not hit anything. I was cruising through the interstate. Took the car to the dealer to find out my resonator is broken. I have a GHL exhaust. Why would this happen?
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The clamp connecting the resonator and the catalytic converter is leaking around the edges. I changed the bolts and tightened the clamp but still leaking.
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I have a question about the placement of the resonator. I have searched but I would just like confirmation due to the fact that I only found 1 thread with pics.
Following the tips, what is the correct order. I believe that it is tips, muffler, and then the large resonator. Meaning that the resonator is the closest to the engine. Also, correct me if I'm wrong but there is only 1 resonator in the b6 2.0t right.
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Can we remove the air intake resonator on the 2012 Hyundai Santa 2.4L engine? I hear that it will increase a few hp and make the engine louder.
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Have the resonator delete with engineer light on when step hard ?
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I installed the pierburg revised DV yesterday because my old DV was shot, squealing and leaking boost. After installing it I noticed that when i'm under around 15 psi and i let it build up that I get this flutter I didnt have before. I assume its the wastegate but I haven't heard it prior to installing the new DV so my fear is that its the valve no circulating and its putting the unused psi back through the turbo (not good).
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a buddy of mine suggested I get a res delete recently but i inquired earlier about this to a sears auto mechanic and he said i'd have problems because of the loss of down pressure, is that a big deal? i have a 2.8 30 valve v6.
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-I currently have a CTS turbo intake, 42DD turboback and installed the Autotech HPFP. After we installed the HPFP and drove around the block I threw a CEL. (not sure the exact code # ) but it was related to the cam shaft.
We were unable to upload the 2+ tune because his computer which has his APR info is under repair. My guess is that I am throwing a CEL because I upgraded the HPFP but do not have a tune for it yet. Who else has installed a HPFP before getting the tune?
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So i have been looking to get some new headlights with the projector housing but noticed that most of them have a fog light which my car does not have. I know in order to get them to work properly i would need the euro switch, but would i need to run additional wires through the firewall?
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I have a 2013 gti. Lowering it in h&r super sports. I want some spacers to complete my look on the 50000km a year Car. Would 20mm spacers all around be to much?
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I'm interested in installing a staggered set of wheels on the R. The size I'm looking are 18x8.5 and 18x9.5. My question is what wheel sizes should I run to keep everything within spec of my Haldex unit? Ive read about staggered units having to be within 3 or 4% so nothing breaks down prematurely.
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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So I really don't drive my car much during the year since I'm away at college. Once I got back home a couple weeks ago and drove my 20th, i heard a rattle coming from the middle of the car. Jacked it up and starting banging around. The sound is coming from my resonator. Its either the clamp that is busted or the resonator itself. I have to get in closer to see which it is. But I do have a few questions. If I just cut the resonator cut off and weld a straight pipe to that will it be much louder. I have a stock 20th and I'm not really looking for a loud exhaust at the moment. Is it much louder without the resonator? I know if you put a straight pipe in place of the muffler it is MUCH louder so I'm just curious.
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I installed my LEDs put in the fog trigger wire, did the vag com, and on my dash the rear fog icon pops up. BUT no rear fog, I still have a bulb out message as-well. I've triple checked all of my wiring today, and did not see anything wrong. I've tried replacing the bulb.
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Since I installed the Stage 2 VF I've been getting the p1143 code for my maf. I've tried two different maf's and the problem keeps coming back.
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There is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
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How to install rivets to the subframe and rails of the car I can't figure it out to save my life and it just says to put the ecs bolt and but rivet installer but it literally does nothing the rivet literally slides in and out am I missing something.
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Brand new bumper came in without screws and nuts, it's ready for painting but i need the right hardware. (photos are simply for reference)
I want to keep the screws and nuts OEM meaning as close to as exact as possible without home depot or some lame arse hardware store, i'm talking about original VW if possible parts. Or at least the clips if anything at all. VW dealer hasn't supported much either, they just said go to Home Depot and buy some regular screws and u-nuts but I want everything as if it came straight off the dealership. I do not believe that all screws and nuts are created equal and where to get exact right hardware I need.
As far as I know the bottom needs 18 or so 5mm nuts and "u-nuts" that they screw into. And there's also the stock scoop, where to even start with screws on this one.
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The strut is lose, I can spin it hardly but I can't get the rotor to go down far enough, already disassembled the control arm but it didn't do much considering I couldn't move it forward or backward so the rotor still sits on a corner or the arm. I did the drivers side already.
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