Golf VI R :: After Installing HPFP Car Throws A CEL
Jan 18, 2014
-I currently have a CTS turbo intake, 42DD turboback and installed the Autotech HPFP. After we installed the HPFP and drove around the block I threw a CEL. (not sure the exact code # ) but it was related to the cam shaft.
We were unable to upload the 2+ tune because his computer which has his APR info is under repair. My guess is that I am throwing a CEL because I upgraded the HPFP but do not have a tune for it yet. Who else has installed a HPFP before getting the tune?
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I wouldn't think so. Had the HPFP installed yesterday, a rebuilt/record, at a local reputable shop. They'd previously flashed the car and installed the VWR intake.
Didn't notice any issues yesterday upon driving home or afterward -- I parked the car and didn't use it again until this AM, when I drove a little around town. Parked the car for about an hour, and when I got back to it, smelled gasoline. Drove home, and smelled it again.
Just opened the hood and the pump is dripping a little gas -- the knurled knob is wet with it, and the wiring harness directly below is wet with it.
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While driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
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This truck ran 100% fine with the tuner, exhaust DPF/EGR off, i had received an HPFP code because the tuner is used to the old ford flash, not the new flash that widen the HPFP parameters, the one that Ford screwed over your 100k warranties. Anyhow, i took it to the dealer to get the HPFP replaced. My truck ran fine I just wanted the HPFP replaced as I'd rather pay 3k$ now than 10,000$ when it gets shavings in the line.
I told them there is a tuner on it, apparently they took the tuner off and reflashed it to fords most recent programming. They called me and said it won't start. So i came up to check it out and turned the key cluster came on, but no crank, no starter, nothing. as if a security parameter was in place or something. Plugged the tuner back in and tried to install a tune to see if it would fix it. No luck there.
Is this a case of them running the truck with the tuner off and it going into regen thinking the DPF is there? You can turn the key and the cluster goes on and now has a wrench symbol as it didnt when i brought it in. What are my options? I know i made a mistake taking to them, but i didnt think they would take it off and screw it up. Im pissed because theyre telling me its my fault with aftermarket parts on it. Even though my truck ran fine before coming to them now it wont move...
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My hpfp just blew up 2 weeks ago. I'm still waiting to hear if my ford extended warentee will pay for it. What was weird for me was I had a p0087 code thrown about an hour before the p21b0 code. I had a 5sec warning of reduce power, then pull over now message, then it died before I could get over. All service down by ford, 48k miles on my 2011. I'm not happy that the truck left me on the side of the road with the 5th wheel in tow. Having a second failure? Not sure if I want to keep the truck now or not. Sounds like even the newer trucks are failing as well. I would have thought they would have this fixed by now.
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I have a 2005 4Cyl Camry - transmission replaced under warranty at 89K. The car now has 150K and I have been having a couple tranny issues recently.
Most alarming - When the car is warm and you shift from Park to Drive the car hesitates for 3-5 seconds before it slams into Drive.
Now the car threw a CEL about a month ago. Took into the Toyota and they took a look at it. Said the code was related to 3 Shift Sensor Solenoids, so they cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive and said "all clear" car is fine and there's nothing wrong.
I'm wondering if one of the sensors is going bad and it just isn't throwing a code yet.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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If your diverter valve is bad, will it throw a CEL or not always? I don't have a CEL but sometimes I feel like there is a lag in the boost. Wondering if the diverter valve is bad or not.
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Happened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
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About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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I installed the pierburg revised DV yesterday because my old DV was shot, squealing and leaking boost. After installing it I noticed that when i'm under around 15 psi and i let it build up that I get this flutter I didnt have before. I assume its the wastegate but I haven't heard it prior to installing the new DV so my fear is that its the valve no circulating and its putting the unused psi back through the turbo (not good).
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2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca, 160,000 miles. Misfire throws check-engine light twice daily, compression leak, getting worse. Valve job? or trade?
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So i have been looking to get some new headlights with the projector housing but noticed that most of them have a fog light which my car does not have. I know in order to get them to work properly i would need the euro switch, but would i need to run additional wires through the firewall?
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I have a 2013 gti. Lowering it in h&r super sports. I want some spacers to complete my look on the 50000km a year Car. Would 20mm spacers all around be to much?
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I'm interested in installing a staggered set of wheels on the R. The size I'm looking are 18x8.5 and 18x9.5. My question is what wheel sizes should I run to keep everything within spec of my Haldex unit? Ive read about staggered units having to be within 3 or 4% so nothing breaks down prematurely.
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Got my Magnaflow resonator in the mail today. Called up my exhaust shop and they are willing to tackle it but were wondering "where to cut" and "what about the internal baffles". Do you cut and shorten the center of the resonator by 7 inches or do you cut at one of the ends and shorten it from there 7 inches?
The picture I saw on TampaVW's thread shows it having been rewelded from the exit side (IIRC) but what about the internal baffles?
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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I installed my LEDs put in the fog trigger wire, did the vag com, and on my dash the rear fog icon pops up. BUT no rear fog, I still have a bulb out message as-well. I've triple checked all of my wiring today, and did not see anything wrong. I've tried replacing the bulb.
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Since I installed the Stage 2 VF I've been getting the p1143 code for my maf. I've tried two different maf's and the problem keeps coming back.
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There is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
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How to install rivets to the subframe and rails of the car I can't figure it out to save my life and it just says to put the ecs bolt and but rivet installer but it literally does nothing the rivet literally slides in and out am I missing something.
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