Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Won't Start - Replaced HPFP - Tuner?
Sep 12, 2017
This truck ran 100% fine with the tuner, exhaust DPF/EGR off, i had received an HPFP code because the tuner is used to the old ford flash, not the new flash that widen the HPFP parameters, the one that Ford screwed over your 100k warranties. Anyhow, i took it to the dealer to get the HPFP replaced. My truck ran fine I just wanted the HPFP replaced as I'd rather pay 3k$ now than 10,000$ when it gets shavings in the line.
I told them there is a tuner on it, apparently they took the tuner off and reflashed it to fords most recent programming. They called me and said it won't start. So i came up to check it out and turned the key cluster came on, but no crank, no starter, nothing. as if a security parameter was in place or something. Plugged the tuner back in and tried to install a tune to see if it would fix it. No luck there.
Is this a case of them running the truck with the tuner off and it going into regen thinking the DPF is there? You can turn the key and the cluster goes on and now has a wrench symbol as it didnt when i brought it in. What are my options? I know i made a mistake taking to them, but i didnt think they would take it off and screw it up. Im pissed because theyre telling me its my fault with aftermarket parts on it. Even though my truck ran fine before coming to them now it wont move...
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Yesterday I returned my F-250 SUPERDUTY 5.4 To stock on the sct flash tuner that came on the truck. after returning it to stock i tried to start the truck to leave about an hour later and instantly wouldnt start it backfired. we returned it back to the tune that was on the truck, still no start. we replaced the starter, the battery still nothing. if it sits for a little while it will attempt to turn over. it has a strong odor of gas in which led me to possibly thinking its vapor locked? or the pcm being bad or maybe the crank shaft sensor? the truck has ran strong and had zero problems up until now when we took the tuner off. it runs about 6 codes now, a few being the kam the o2 and low voltage.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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I just bought an 2015 F250 4x4 6.2L (gas) I am thinking about buying a programmer/tuner for it. I am planning on taking the truck pulling a 28' camper to Florida this summer. My goal is to get the most gas mileage I can out of the truck.
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I have a 2008 f 250 super duty gas v10 i have never had problems with it start always starts right up and strong. After coming out of the story today I tried the remote start and it tried to turn for a couple seconds and stopped. I replaced the battery and starter and still nothing. i hear the relay when trying to start with both keys or remote start but nothing from the starter all lights are working .
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I replaced the icp in a 2007 ford 6.0 and now it will not crank. I can unplug the icp and it will start, I can also put the old icp in andit will start. The connection has no oil on it and it seems to fit tight too. Is there any thing else I need to try?
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So my issue, had heat last year, turned on first time this year and its cold. So I did some research on the site and have done a few things but still no heat
First thing I did was flushed coolant system and add new coolant as I have 235,000 miles on the truck and it looked rough
Ran the truck for a while and checked heater core hoses, they were both warm, not hot by any means so I pulled the thermostat and replaced the thermostat and gasket
Now the hoses to heater core are both hot and my temp gauge went up about 1/4" higher than it ever has, but still no heat.
Blows fine, just cold or sometimes luke warm. I pulled the glove box back to try and see I I could hear anything when I change from hot to cold and I hear or see nothing. Only movement I see is when changing cycles from defrost, heater, ac... So could this be a blend door issue an how do I get to the blend door, is it behind the big plastic plenum box?
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I left town and accidentally left the tailgate on my 2011 F250 SuperDuty unlocked. It was stolen.
Found a replacement, replaced the broken handle, installed new key lock, transferred to camera and plugged it in. My rear-view mirror is not receiving the signal, just a blue screen. Is there something else I need to do to complete the process of connecting the camera.
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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I had to have the starter replaced on my 2009 v10 last week and now some of my radio stations have static. All connections are good? The radio is the touchscreen model, it usually shows the artist name and song, now it doesn't.
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2005 6.0 F250 SD Powerstroke... Truck died on the road and wouldn't start
The symptoms were... I changed the Radiator and had the cooling system flushed... couple of weeks later it stopped while driving... did some research and talked to a few people and the STC valve seemed to be the issue... So new STC, new intake gaskets, cleaned and new EGR gaskets and I just put in a new Turbo (Ford installed it)... had a stripped bolt under the EGR cooler arm and had to remove the Turbo to get to it.... 14 days later......
Changed STC fitting and gaskets in the high pressure oil pump, IPR screen, exhaust manifold gaskets and Cleaned the EGR and changed gaskets and no start. Tried starter fluid and it turned but wouldn't stay on and the batteries died. Would you all say I'm on the right path?
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On my 07 F250 Outlaw recently I replaced my stock 3rd brake light with a Bully LED brake light.. Noticed last night that it is NOT working.. the red LED's arent working but the white cab lights are.
I plugged the stock one back in and still nothing. After looking in the owner manual at the fuse block I did NOT see a fuse for it... Got to experimenting and my peddle raise lower switch is not working either. I looked at that fuse and it looked good but just to be safe I replaced it with a new one and still nothing...
could these be tied together some how for power?
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I just replaced my fuel pump to avoid another tow truck ride and now my fuel gauge is off. I filled up the truck today and the fuel gauge is only showing half a tank. I turned the truck on and off several times to try to reset it, but that didn't work.
Truck is a 2003 with the 5.4.
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I have a 2001 f250 v-10 4wd with 117,000 miles. I just replaced drivers side front hub bearing assy and not sure if it's the new bearing or what but now I keep hearing this crazy noise from suspension area. It has had bangs and pops for a while now. It almost sounds like abs motor going off but louder. Does it going slow fast or whatever. Brakes on or off. Trucks ball joints were done about two months ago and new shocks, trac bar replaced this summer only thing not done was tie rod ends and all bushings. Brakes are good new rotors and pads this summer also. It's like taking two inflated balloons and rub them together real fast. It may be the timken bearing maybe bad from get go.
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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I replaced the power steering pump on my 2000 f250 Power stroke. I bled the lines, and when the wheels are on the ground, I have no steering. When I raise the wheels off the ground, I have no problems turning stop to stop.
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.
Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.
So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....
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I replaced my my front hub assemblies on my 2003 F250, 4x4, about two years ago and my driver side hub is leaking. I first noticed it the other day when I tried to shift into 4 wheel drive and my hubs would not lock in the ESOF system.
I used a vacuum pump and it leaked down pretty fast so I assume the knuckle/axle seal is the culprit.
I plan on ordering these three seals:
Amazon.com: f81z-1s175-hca
I am also noticing another # for the axle seal. It is 3C3Z-3254-CA. Which is correct for my 2003?
Are my questions would I actually need to replace all three? The dust seal is not leaking at the moment. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?
What type of grease do I need to use the seals? I have some disc brake bearing lithium grease in the cabinet. Will this work or do I need to get a specific type
Lastly, I've seen a post where members have made their seal seating tool out of the galvanized pipe, cap, and a flange. The flange is said to be too large and it would have to be ground down for the right diameter.
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I have a 2003 F250 that has recently started blowing white smoke. I replaced the EGR Valve but no luck.
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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2001 F250, 5.4, Replaced the clockspring and now my steering wheel feels very tight. After cornering, it doesn't come back on it's own, like something is rubbing. The face of the clockspring is slightly different than what was there.
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