Golf VI R :: Leaking Gasoline After Installing Rebuilt APR HPFP
Aug 19, 2012
I wouldn't think so. Had the HPFP installed yesterday, a rebuilt/record, at a local reputable shop. They'd previously flashed the car and installed the VWR intake.
Didn't notice any issues yesterday upon driving home or afterward -- I parked the car and didn't use it again until this AM, when I drove a little around town. Parked the car for about an hour, and when I got back to it, smelled gasoline. Drove home, and smelled it again.
Just opened the hood and the pump is dripping a little gas -- the knurled knob is wet with it, and the wiring harness directly below is wet with it.
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-I currently have a CTS turbo intake, 42DD turboback and installed the Autotech HPFP. After we installed the HPFP and drove around the block I threw a CEL. (not sure the exact code # ) but it was related to the cam shaft.
We were unable to upload the 2+ tune because his computer which has his APR info is under repair. My guess is that I am throwing a CEL because I upgraded the HPFP but do not have a tune for it yet. Who else has installed a HPFP before getting the tune?
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My '10 Golf TDI started leaking gasoline this morning, found smallish puddle in the garage. Looked underneath and there was definitely fuel on the underside of the tank. Moved the car into the driveway so the leaking fuel can evaporate.
Not sure what happened. I did hit something on the highway yesterday, a piece of tire from a semi went underneath the car. Of course it's been really hot 100+ deg lately. Maybe a fitting has come loose?
I'm not going to risk driving it, but can't do anything about it until monday. I'll call the shop and see what they recommend, tow or drive.
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The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
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I recently rented a lovely studio apartment that the home owners built above their double garage. Both of their cars are parked in the garage every night. From the Cabriolet (20 years old) comes a powerful smell of gas after the car is turned off, which rises to my apartment. Opening the windows doesn't even work. It seems like this powerful odor is coming up through the floor and through the windows. What is the problem with this vehicle that it should be emitting such heavy fumes? By the way, their other car is a 2011 Sentra, which doesn't seem to have any bearing on this problem.
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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I have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
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This truck ran 100% fine with the tuner, exhaust DPF/EGR off, i had received an HPFP code because the tuner is used to the old ford flash, not the new flash that widen the HPFP parameters, the one that Ford screwed over your 100k warranties. Anyhow, i took it to the dealer to get the HPFP replaced. My truck ran fine I just wanted the HPFP replaced as I'd rather pay 3k$ now than 10,000$ when it gets shavings in the line.
I told them there is a tuner on it, apparently they took the tuner off and reflashed it to fords most recent programming. They called me and said it won't start. So i came up to check it out and turned the key cluster came on, but no crank, no starter, nothing. as if a security parameter was in place or something. Plugged the tuner back in and tried to install a tune to see if it would fix it. No luck there.
Is this a case of them running the truck with the tuner off and it going into regen thinking the DPF is there? You can turn the key and the cluster goes on and now has a wrench symbol as it didnt when i brought it in. What are my options? I know i made a mistake taking to them, but i didnt think they would take it off and screw it up. Im pissed because theyre telling me its my fault with aftermarket parts on it. Even though my truck ran fine before coming to them now it wont move...
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My hpfp just blew up 2 weeks ago. I'm still waiting to hear if my ford extended warentee will pay for it. What was weird for me was I had a p0087 code thrown about an hour before the p21b0 code. I had a 5sec warning of reduce power, then pull over now message, then it died before I could get over. All service down by ford, 48k miles on my 2011. I'm not happy that the truck left me on the side of the road with the 5th wheel in tow. Having a second failure? Not sure if I want to keep the truck now or not. Sounds like even the newer trucks are failing as well. I would have thought they would have this fixed by now.
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I just recently picked up a 2000 Jetta VR6. its 173k miles on it and has few issues with it.
The Background. The car had a check engine light on and when i bought it I was told it was just an o2 sensor and i trusted him cuz i knew the guy (sorta). Bad move on my part, but not terrible. After I bought the car, i took it to autozone to just get the codes and be sure. It came up with a P1116 - o2 sensor heater circuit open on bank 1 (expected), and I also got a P0302 - misfire cylinder 2 (dafuq?). The misfire surprised me cuz it did not feel like it was misfiring whatsoever and it did not have flashing CEL.
After driving the car for a few days, I have noticed a few things that make me believe that it is either a faulty injector or seal.
1. The misfire, but not significant misfire. The only time I can tell any difference on how the car performs is when its at idle, it tends to not idle completely steady and vibrates a little more than what an engine should. Other than that, the car pulls great and not any issues.
2. The smell of gasoline is prevalent. It takes about 30 seconds before it just plain out reeks. And if you pop the hood and stick your nose right next to cylinder 2, you probably get high off the fumes (if that's possible). I am sure its coming from somewhere under the plenum because it was leaking some type of liquid that I had initially thought was just oil but I really think its gasoline.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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The picture I saw on TampaVW's thread shows it having been rewelded from the exit side (IIRC) but what about the internal baffles?
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