Golf V R32 :: Rubber Weatherstrip Falling Off The Door Very Frequently
Aug 2, 2012
So the black weatherstrip that goes around the door falls off along the bottom of the door (especially the driver's side) like once or twice every year? I've had the dealer replaced brand new ones twice already and re-glue them another 2-3 times but seems like it just wont' hold on to the door. Now I am out of warranty and the weatherstrip just fell off again, try to see if there's any solutions to this.
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I noticed something hanging from the rear suspension / passenger side, and took a look.
two pieces of some rubber / neoprene-looking stuff were hanging, it seems they are part of some rubber spring "isolator" at the top of the spring??
is this "isolator" a replaceable part? I've been hearing a noise at the rear and now I know where it is coming from. Here's a picture of what fell off:
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I have an 01 B5 Passat and the interior cloth covering surrounding the front door frames keeps coming off the rubber gasket. I have tried many different types of glue and contact cement but nothing seems to last longer than a few months.
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I have a 2003 f350 6.0 diesel crew cab. The outside door trim that runs about a 1/4 way up from the bottom off the door is falling off. I was wondering what was the best way to re-attach them.
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Spoke with a friend the other day and his headliner is falling, already. Was there a recall on this, never seen a car this new be so bad...
I offered to do his headliner for him, but would like to keep the OE pattern. I can get regular stuff from a local fabric shop, but didn't recall seeing anything close to what is in there.
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When I opened my sliding rear window yesterday the vertical weatherstrip that touches the glass of the sliding section tore off.
Is there a way of repairing that?
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As the title indicates, the rearview mirror (that mounts on the windshield) on my MKIV Jetta won't stay on. When it falls off, the spring clip remains attached to the mounting base on the windshield. I have tried bending the spring clip outward (works until I hit a bump) and epoxying the spring clip when installing back in the mirror base (worked for a month or two).
I can't tell either from the diagram in the Bentley or from pictures of mirror bases that I found around the internet what precisely is supposed to retain the spring clip in the mirror base. I can get a used mirror base locally, but I'm just not quite sure whether the problem is with the base, the spring clip, or both...
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The little rubber post that holds the gas door closed has broken off. I'm worried that fixing this will require replacing some type of cabling system that connects the release button in the driver's door to the gas door and THAT sounds really expensive. I've got 52K on the car with an extended warranty. Think this might be covered?
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I seen a thread on here about putting rubber tubing in your door seals to stop drafts. What size tubing is used?
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I have noticed a rubber squeak from my driver's door on my 2010 ES 350. It disappears when the rubber is wet so I am thinking perhaps there is a silicon product that I could apply or another fix for this? Any solutions out there?
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The rubber door trim (attached to the roof side) keeps coming off 3 of my doors when it gets icy. Is there something I can use to glue it to the metal ?
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The door molding has come loose at the front corners of both my doors on my 2002 S-10 pickup. I tried weldwood contact cement (the kind you use on laminating Formica counter tops), but it only lasted a couple of days. I put a spot of super glue on it to see if that might work. It looks promising but that little spot that I tried was not enough surface area to hold it for more than a day. I don't want to ruin the trim by super gluing the whole thing if it won't work. How to do this? The trim seems fine otherwise. It is not cracking or anything like that. I think super glue would hold it if I glued the entire length of about a foot or so. Also the driver side door seems to be a bit out of line an eighth of inch or so at the front corner. It does not appear to be adjustable. It has never been in an accident. It does not seem to be leaking into the cab yet with the door closed.
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I have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
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That's a rubber band stretched across the inside of my dash behind my stereo. Is that OEM or normal??? What happens when it finally snaps?
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About two weeks ago I changed the haldex fluid at 61K. I just drained the fluid and then filled it with the new stuff from the tube. I did not open the check plug. (I changed the fluid and filter at 40k and didn't open the check plug then either.)
Early this week I noticed a wet spot on the garage floor. There was a fluid drip coming out of the rubber stopper near the rear driver side jacking point. Last night I pulled the rubber plug and cleaned the fluid residue as much as possible. Today, I drove the car to work and put a clean white frisbee under the car to catch any drips. There were just a few drips in the frisbee at the end of the day. I compared the drip to the haldex fluid that was drained out a couple of weeks ago. It appears to be the same, but I'm not sure.
I'm dreading what it might mean if the haldex system is leaking, and I don't want to drive the car with low fluid. So I jacked the car up on all four corners, opened the check plug and a 1-2 ounces of fluid drizzled out. From what I can tell by the wet spots on the garage floor, less than an ounce has dripped out so far. (Also, I started the car and put it into 1st gear and all four wheels spun...so at least I know the haldex is still working.)
If the system had too much fluid, could it have blown a seal someplace..
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I have noticed that my car makes a hot rubber smell when under periods of extended boost. I live in CO and there are sections of road where, just to maintain highway speeds, my car will hit and hold 5psi as I motor up a mtn pass or very long/big hill...that could be a few miles with periods where it might just drop to 0 for a minute or two depending on traffic or a spot where things level out for a sec. (Downshifting doesn't really change this, only the rpm range...the hill/load stays constant)
Anyways, I don't notice this any other time. No visible oil leaks. The catch can is emptied. No smoke from engine or tailpipe. So I am fairly certain this is rubber I am smelling.
I am wondering if perhaps it's just the turbo getting hot enough to make the stock boost hose smell? It seems obvious to me that it is directly related to turbo heat. All searches I have done lead me to crayon smells or burnt oil...this is neither. Car runs fantastic otherwise, but this smell just sucks.
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At low speeds - Like when I go over the soft-curb at the end of my driveway, I get a rubber seals making a squeaky (from friction?) sound when ever tire goes up or down the curb.
Or in a parking lot with uneven surface - I get it then too.
Just very annoying - but luckily no noise while driving the speed limit...
I never had a car that did this. Been driving VW's since 1986.
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Mine appears to be leaking where the rubber pipe meets the metal coupler. What actually secures the rubber to the metal? I will get a new 1 soon but will be a week or so as I'm all spent after a few other unnecessary car related items.
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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So I took my GTI in for TSBs, new wipers, the door seal creak and new wheels (old ones were not painted behind the spokes) - when it was returned to me, I noticed (after I got home) the red door stripe on the passenger side would not light up. At one point they had taken that door panel off to see if it was creaking instead of the seals (which of course, it was not) and I assume that they forgot to connect something, or unplugged something accidentally. Any other suggestion, like a magical fuse I can replace? I so don't want to travel 60 miles back to this guy. And not only did they not fix the seals, the noise is worse than before, I think from them messing with the doors. But anyway, I'm looking for possible DIY fixes.
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Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
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