Braking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
View 5 RepliesWhen turning right, it seems as if my brakes don't want to work. There is somewhat of a grinding sound and what I can only describe as a "shutter" from the pedal. They work great going straight or turning left. I should also mention that the steering locks up when turning sharply, haven't noticed if it's only when turning a certain way. This happens mostly when backing up. Also, the ABS light is on occasionally. I drive a '96 GMC Suburban.
View 7 RepliesMy 01 Denali is making a slight knock when I turn right or left, and I can feel it just a bit in the steering. To my knowledge nothing has even been replaced. It has 134,000 miles
View 6 RepliesThis noise sound as if an electric motor going off for a second only. It almost sounds as a CD changer changing cds but for a second only.
What is weird is that it only sounds when the car has been off, turn it on and I start accelerating to about 8-10mph. If I come to a complete stop at a stop light and accelerate again it will not sound. If i come to complete stop and put the car in park or N, it will not sound. You will only hear it on the first take off when the car has been off.
I would also like to point that I have manually shifted and this does not change a thing. The noise still comes on around 8-10mph even if I keep it in 1st gear.
Furthermore, I would also like to point out that the noise is is not loud. Chances are I will not hear if I have radio on at low levels or the A/C fan in mid to high.
Again, the sounds seems to come from the outside the cab and it sounds like an electric motor going off for about one second only.
The car is a 2012 l4 with about 60k miles on the odo.
Twice now, I've been parked on a very slight hill, nose up, the diesel levels are less than a quarter tank but still over the low level warning. When I start the car, it starts but then shuts off within a few seconds, the second time I try, it turns but no start, and then it basically shuts off and doesn't even turn. Both times, I've coasted down the hill a bit because it becomes flat and then it can start. I asked the dealership about it but they said I self diagnosed it.. and they didn't even look at it further.
I've never had this problem with any other VW I've owned in the pass. So far this car is starting to disapoint me.. mileage wise, it's fine and I love the wagon part but I've been having lots of small problems arise. My warranty is about to expire in another 15000km's and I'm wondering if I should even bother keeping it. It's my main car and I travel with it a lot for work. (65 000km's on it in 20 months). However, I'm finding it hard even thinking of another car to replace my VW.
(2010 VW golf wagon diesel)
Sometime when I make a sharp turn (such as turning out of a parking lot) I hear a "pop or click" noise coming from the front end. I cant tell whether this is normal or not and I wanted to know if this was a sign of anything serious. The car only has 70k miles and is in pretty good shape. Still stock suspension.
View 8 RepliesI got my car in November and I just did a scan and got this code. I don't have a CEL on. I do feel a slight vibration from time to time. It's very light.
Should I clear all DTCs and then run a scan a couple of days later to see what codes I truly have? Or should I address this code?
If yes, what should I do about this code? Do I need to buy a new knock sensor or should I check the wiring first with a voltmeter?
My friend has tortured my R32 which he was supposed to buy. I had the motor replaced while i was gone as he blew it , again , dumb. I have been driving it and it has a terrible whine in the tranny I brought it to my mechanic and we took a sample to find metal shaving in my tranny.
He says the tranny is gone but I am lost on how it shifts perfect except the whine. It does this louder in the lower gears and has a slight knock at idle and disappears when I press the clutch in.
I bought a used tranny already to put in. I also if this is the case and the tranny needs replacing I was told to also do the clutch , should I go stock to save money or go with a different clutch and possibly a LW Flywheel , is it really a drastic power difference?
Picked up an '03 Eddie Bauer v8 with the full time AWD knowing that the transfer case needed to be replaced, I got a good deal so it was worth it. It's still driveable but it binds in sharps turns and I get the occasional knock. I have two questions really, what is the correct PN for the single speed transfer case for this year model?
All the online ford parts store will give me is 7A195... well yeah, there's like a hundred different variations on that part number. And what year Mountaineers and Aviators will cross over to the Explorer? I've been searching ebay but their info is all over the place, no consistency. As an after thought, how difficult would it be to convert this to a 2 speed part time 4x4?
So the Jetta developed a new noise lately that sounds just like what can be head on this video.
The spring-clicking kinda noise only happens when i make a sharp right turn at low speed and seems to be coming from the driver's side. So i though bad outer cv joint.
Well, I put on a brand new OEM unit last night and noise is still there.
I've had my R since late mid-summer, and one of the first things I noticed was this clunk sound when reversing into my parking spot and when making an aggressive sharp turn. Usually Left.
After reading multiple threads on this topic, I came to the conclusion that it was my sub-frame and the bolts need replacing. I got in a GB for the tyrol subframe stiffening kit after reading some good reviews/responses.
Today, on my day off, I finally went to a mechanic to get this installed. I just changed my mechanic, and this was my first visit to the guy hes had over 10 years experience at vw and just opened up his own shop. He did a great job, torqued the bolts to spec, made me drive around, do some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear, reverse forward etc.
So hes about to pull the car back in to retorque and.... CLUNK...
Get in the car, reproduce the sound, get the car back up on the hoist... and at this point I'm expecting the worse. He takes my control arms off, checks the end links...
Brings the car down, and the clunking sound is louder than ever. It was the weathergaurd. When I turned on the wheel it was pulling it out and when I straightened the wheel it was popping it back into place, making a big clunk sound.
This was the exact sound that I was hearing, thinking it was my subframe. The bolts that came out were not stretched or bent out of shape like the ones you see in other reviews. They're actually in great shape. I'm glad I did the Tyrol kit and do not regret it, and I definitely feel a difference when I went into some aggressive turns.
When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
View 2 RepliesPicked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 1.8t. Was stock except for exhaust and Cai. This weekend I installed a Audi K04 turbo, Audi exhaust manifold, 3" down pipe to 3" exhaust, 3" maf, front mount intercooler, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator, high pressure fuel pump, 386cc injectors, r8 coil packs, ngk plugs. The car start but sounds like it's going to turn off and can't get it out of first gear. As soon as I put some gas it seems like it chokes and can't go past 10 MPh. I don't have it chipped could that be the reason or should I look at something else that could be causing the problem. I'm wanting to go Unitronic stage 2+ but don't wanna do that and still have the same problem.
View 1 RepliesIt's been two weeks since the track and the brake still squeals during the last couple feet before the a complete stop (from 10MPH or so to 0), is this normal? I am on stock pads, how long they last typically? I have 32k miles on the car and that was the first time I track the car ever.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 Avalon hybrid that is almost 1 yr old.
I have recently notice a single "pop" noise that seems to be coming from the rear when I turn right with a sharp turn.
I have looked in the trunk and under the vehicle but I cannot find where it is coming from.
I am just trying to find out if this means I need to have something checked like coolant hardware/fluid...
It is over 100 F these past several days and at 35 minutes just hopping off the freeway, and then again today, coming down a big hill at another part of the freeway, I noted that as I quickly had to brake the system made the computer noise (same as when I switch from the power view to the trip view), red triangle comes on, no other indicators. The first time it happened I was back on the throttle almost right away and red triangle went back off.
Everything fine. Same today but it was on until I was back on the throttle at the bottom of the hill...
I have a 2012 Toyota Camry and I noticed that when I am on a slight upward hill, my Camry will slowly roll back if I don't have my brake pedal applied. Does this happen to you and is it normal? This is my first new car and my old car which was a 94 lincoln never did this even on very steep hills.
View 14 Replies99 Dodge Ram 1500 Automatic 5.2L. Whenever I come up to even a slight hill the A/C will stop blowing and the vehicle speed will drop 3-5 mph and stay until after the top of the hill and will be sluggish to regain speed and A/C will blow again once original speed is achieved. No engine light or warning lights come on. What could be causing this problem?
View 6 RepliesIs it normal for the GX 470 to roll backward on a slight hill when in drive and foot off the brake?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Rav 4. 86000 miles and serviced vigilantly. Before the warranty ran out it had a problem that no one could diagnose so now it's out of warranty and the problem is a lot worse, still no one has a definite diagnosis. What the problem could be.The rattle was very intermittent at 40mph going up a slight hill. If I took my foot off the accelerator and put it back on the noise went away. Now it is rattling quite a bit and not just at 40mph. I can still have it stop for a bit by taking my foot off the accelerator and putting it back on. My mechanic told me to try driving in 3rd gear. It has not rattled in 3rd gear yet. Toyota mechanic of 29years has never heard this noise before and neither has my mechanic so it is an unusual one. Toyota wants to do a transmission flush 3 times and then if that doesn't fix it will put in a new transmission. My mechanic thinks it is the transfer case. No one knows for sure.
View 6 Replies