Golf VI R :: Radio Doesn't Shut Off When Turn Off The Engine
Nov 19, 2013
So, I decided to re-code the car such that the radio does not shut off when I turn off the engine (KESSY) but rather when I open the door to get out. It's accomplished by recording the instrument cluster to think it's a UK cluster. Well, when I did that the area that usually displays the outside temp is displaying my speed in KPH. I changed the coding back to US and it didn't work. The temp is displayed if I choose to have the car stats displayed like miles till empty and such but that's not usually what I have displayed. Funnily enough, I do like knowing what the outside temp is.
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I have been having some electrical problems lately that seem to be getting worse. For the past few months sometimes when i hit a bump or pothole my radio would shut off and then turn back on. Well I never got around to looking at it cause i would forget about it until it did it again. so just a couple of days ago im coming into my driveway, hit the bump, and my car shuts off. Not like a stall, just no electricity. I was thinking i need a new battery because my lights flicker and dim when i hit my window button, or when I am just sitting at a light, sometimes my dash lights will flicker. But now I am thinking maybe I have a bad ground or something.
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My radio was working fine on Friday, but the next time I drove the car, on Sunday, the radio wouldn't turn on. The power button doesn't do anything, pressing the mode button doesn't do anything and the voice command button doesn't do anything.
Everything else works... bluetooth, display, Nav. Just the radio/CD player won't turn on... it just says "Audio Off". Also, when I go into the diag screen, the Audio reports "NCON". I've checked the fuses listed in the Owners Manuel as audio and they all seem fine.
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I noticed today shortly before turning off the car that the screen was lagging. Sometimes there was not even response. Radio turned on and off ok, but screen was not showing it. It would then display (after several seconds) the info, display, and audio. However, when I clicked the Climate one, the MFD said, "Check the condition to the air conditioner." However, when I used the driver's controls, it worked okay.
I then turned off the car, and when I turned it back on, everything appeared to be normal. The screen was significantly lagging.
Might this be an issue with the air conditioning itself. I mostly run the A/C on full blast on the MAX cold (sometimes Auto (LO temp, HI fan)). Temperature in the output vent (left center one) after 5-10 minutes: 48 degrees moving. Outside temperature between 100 and 110, so it's pretty hot too.
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Ok, so, according to my dad, his car battery died, and he had to have it jumped. After the jump, apparently his headunit will no longer turn on. We think it may be a blown fuse, in which case we need to know the location of the fuse (and probably the rating & label of it, for identification's sake). I have an aftermarket headunit in my Santa Fe, and the fuse for that is in the back of the actual unit itself, so I don't know if there's a fuse in the back of his factory stereo too...? However, we are not exactly sure what the problem is. My dad's car is a 2007 Hyundai Elantra with the premium factory audio system installed. He gets Sirius-XM and has an aux input (everything pertaining to audio is factory-installed).
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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My 99 Camry solara is hissing when I start the engine and doesn't go away until the car is shut off ---- then it hisses a few seconds more, then quits.The heating / cooling isn't on and I just had the oil changed yesterday at 227,000+ miles. What this could be?
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03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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So I just finished installing some new OEM LED headlights and was programming with vagcom... I set my byte 18 to 21 (I had it at 1F because I had the OEM tails already on there) My car does not start after doing this... I just hear these loud clicks and nothing. Everything else seemed to work fine but now my radio just shut off and the car still does not start!
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Just got my 06 Prius. The screen shows that Audio Off. The radio doesn't want to turn on. What could be the issue. 06 Prius with nav, Bluetooth, JBL etc. Everything else seem to work except the radio. Fuse perhaps?
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I'm looking at a 1999.5 MKIV Jetta to buy and one thing I noticed is that the CEL doesn't light up when you turn the key to the "on" position. All other lights light up except this. I'm familiar with MKIII's and it does light up.
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This evening I experienced a hiccup when starting the Phaeton. The engine would turn over, but it would then shut off as if there was not enough gas. After two tries I gave it some gas immediately after ignition and it solved the problem. The car had not been sitting for long as I had just returned from a trip in it not an hour before. I recall having this problem once before several months ago, but nothing ever became of it.
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It happens yesterday when I passed an accident caused traffic jam. The day is hot, about 100 F and the traffic is very slow. It lasted for about 15 to 20 minutes, of course the battery had only 2 bar left. After the traffic jam, the battery is charge quickly, but I realized that the EV will not turn on, or the car has only gas engine running. I can feel the acceleration is different with only gas engine running, not as smooth as normal. I got home, turned off my car. After two hours, I tried to drive it again, it's still the same. Until this morning, it got back to normal. During the whole time, there's no any sign showing there's any problem.
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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So my turn signal stalk doesn't go back to neutral after a turn.. also, I don't hear the usually " clicking when turning the wheel that you hear when it goes far enough to re-set itself. What controls this action? Its not the clock spring thing commonly referenced to the airbag airbag is it?
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A recently purchased 2001 volkswagen jetta. The car was working fine when purchased. It was sitting parked for about a month without being driven. Went to start the car and the battery was right dead. Started looking online and seen a dead battery can set the immobillizer system off. So figured if the battery was replaced with one that was charged everything would be good, it would just need the immobillizer reset. So the battery was replaced one that was charged and working. I was expecting the dash to have the little car with key in it light that tells you the system is active, and instead of the car not turning over at all that it would turn over start for split second then stall like its suppose to when in that mode. Instead, there is no light in the dash and it still doesn't turn over at all.
After about 15-30 minutes, I decided to check the battery with a battery tester again to make sure was all good. Now, when the load of the tester was put on the battery it dropped down to 10-11v. Keep in mind with the tester, before being put in the car, it tested fine with a load put on it. So I looked online again and found that is common with this car as well.
So now Im not exactly sure what to so. From what Iv read, I think I should pull every fuse, one at a time and test with ammeter and see if one of them is draining the battery. And if everything tests good there, that it must be a bad ground somewhere?
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Drove the R32 last night for the first time in about a week with no problems, so I figured I would drive it to work today since the roads are still clear.
Got to work, car shuts off like normal. No problems. Drove over to our other facility, turn off the ignition, and the radio stays on when I take the key out. Open the door, radio still stays on and I get the door ajar chime. Close door, start car again, drive around the parking lot, turn car off, same thing. Also, the key fob now has no function at all. I can't lock or unlock the car.
Should I just call a dealer/mechanic? This wouldn't be a huge issue if the car was at home, but it's currently sitting outside, unlocked, in downtown Detroit, and I really don't want the battery to die.
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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It's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.
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If I have the switch set for the lights to turn on when I open the doors, they don't turn off when the doors are shut they just stay on all of the time. Also, sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes they do. My 12v outlet doesn't work either but I am guessing it's the fuse..
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I have a 2000 Jetta TDI, with an aftermarket radio, which was professionally installed about 3 years ago. never given me problems till recent.
After driving i turn off car and all is normal, except frequently i can come back within an hour or two and find that the radio illumination is on, and that i can no longer turn the radio on (with or without key turned on). i also cannot turn off the radio. i say turn off because while it is in this odd mode i can plug in my iphone and it will charge and play music as if through headphones, it is also powering up my amp while in this mode. If i pull fuse 42 it resets and all is good.
I have not noticed any problems while driving or when radio is ON normal
I have swapped out the radio with another identical radio and it is still doing the exact same thing.
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