Golf VI R :: Soft Ding In Front Right Door
Jul 6, 2016
I have a soft ding in my front right door. The paint does not appear to be damaged. I've looked at certain suction-cup devices on Amazon, and as the thread title says, the dealer wants blood money to repair it. I'll probably look up one of those small shops that remove dents. Maybe I'll get lucky. Of course I thought "no need to reinvent the wheel", and decided to ask here to see what might turn up in the way of possible DIY solutions. No, the neighbor's daughter doesn't count.
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First a fender bender (partially my fault and partially my wife's) damaged my rear bumper. Then I got this door ding even though I parked in the widest spot in the parking lot! It must have come from the rear door of an SUV because the ding is above the crease line and right below my driver's side rear window.
I took it to a pop-a-ding place and they said to get to the ding they have to drill a hole in the door frame, and even then they might not be able to reach it. I don't want any unnecessary holes in my door frame, especially when it might not fix the problem. A body shop will probably want to repaint the whole rear panel and that will be expensive.
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I just noticed my first door ding on my T-reg! since it is black it really seems to stand out.? There is no point of impact but there is a scuffing of the paint.
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So my brand new previously gorgeous tiguan, which is only 20 days old, unfortunately had a ding on it on the panel between the windshield and the passenger door.
I drive about 60 miles daily to and from work (and didn't notice anything like that on the car this weekend), so im guessing a rock or something kicked up and nicked the car. Paint doesn't look to be scratched or anything.
Of course since my car is new, im pretty frustrated and annoyed. I know dings will happen but I guess I assumed the body was stable enough to deal with minor kickups.
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The door chime, yes the door chime. I have searched fairly extensively using the search tool, on a way to stop the chime when the door is open. I could care less about it chiming when you put the key in the ignition or when your seatbelt is unbuckled (because I always wear my seatbelt you seatbelt Nazis). I am curious if that little switch that is pressed when the door is closed, that stops the chiming, controls anything other than the door, the headlights and the interior lights. I don't care if the lights don't come on inside the car when I open the door.
I was considering taking the switch out and grounding the sensor so the car thinks the door is always shut. I am regularly cleaning out my car because my children think its a trash can, and I like to listen to the radio when I do so. I like to have all the doors open when I'm sitting in the car scrubbing only god knows what off of every surface of my car, so I can get a nice breeze to keep me cool. Don't tell me to "roll down your stupid windows" or "just close the driver door", I don't want too; enough said.
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I just purchased a Shimmering White 2012 Hyundia Elantra GLS last Wednesday. I love it so far!
The only issue I have (and I'm probably nitpicking). Is that I'll occasionally turn the car off (all accessories off, mind you), and when I open the Driver door, the car will 'ding' repeatedly. Again, no lights or accessories are on. I'm also not able to remote-lock the car after this happens.
The only fix I've found is to put the key back in the ignition and turn the car to accessory, then back to off...then the car doesn't 'ding' when I open the Driver door.
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So all about the same time as far as I can tell, some electrical type issues cropped up.
This Always happens
The Horn is now making a lower pitch wimpy sound
These Next two, when they happen, seem to happen at the same time:
The 'Hey you left your Lights' on Chime does not always Ding
The Drivers Side Rear passenger Door Lock does not lock/unlock
Since they happen intermittently it would not seem like a fuse issue, more like a relay or loose connector?
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I have had this problem for a while now, but can't seem to figure it out. I'm sure it's an electrical issue, but I'm not that great with electrical. My turn signals don't click when I push the handle in either direction. The turn signals come on and stay on but don't blink like they should. I checked the lights in the front and back and they just stay on but don't blink. Also my hazards don't blink. They just stay on and don't make clicking noise either. My horn doesn't work and my door doesn't ding with the key still in the ignition but in the off position. I don't know of it's all related or different issues.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-450 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. The problem I am having is the dome light stays on, the map lights will not turn on, I have no door ding with the key in the ignition, and the radio wont turn on. If I press the clock button on the radio the clock comes on but the radio will not come on when I press the power button. What it may be? I already hosed the door latches with lubricant and that changed nothing. I checked all the fuses they are good.
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My driver's side door's soft close function has stopped working. All other doors work fine. I have run it through multiple start cycles since this discovery and no change. What to look for or how to fix this?
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After car has sat for an hour or more. The car will make a clunking sound, front end, when it reaches 10 mph...but will only do this when first start driving. Doesn't make clunk after it's moving. BUT, if it sits for an hour or more later, it'll make the same clunking sound when starting out. Not related to turning steering wheel or braking.year -2011 with 20,000miles
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Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
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When I was driving on Friday I noticed that moving into 2nd, 4th, and 6th were "soft." I could hardly feel it engage into those gears at all so I thought maybe I would adjust my linkages. So I adjusted my linkages and while sitting in my drive way everything felt solid. When I took my car for a ride down the street I could feel it engage 1st, 2nd, 3rd no problem but after driving around for a few minutes my 2nd, 4th, and 6th gears felt soft again and then it got worse where I couldn't even shift into those gears anymore.
So my R, 1, 3, 5 all worked fine but didn't have 2, 4, 6. After taking a look at my linkages and I pulled off the selector cable and and shifter cable end. I noticed that on the shifter cable end that it felt wobbly and on the selector cable end it was rock solid. I am just wondering if the shifter cable end being worn out could be my issue? Is the shifter cable end supposed to have a little play in it and be wobbly? Or is there another issue I should be looking for? Here is a video of just how wobbly it is. [URL].....
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I just noticed on my front passenger door, when I pull the handle, the top of the door is rubbing against the rubber. It seems to be shifted a little down, especially on the top left corner of the door. What's going on with it. Doesn't open as smooth as the door once did.
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New GTI with PP. Less than 400 miles. When I brake at low speeds, I can hear the sound of the pads and rotors rubbing, bringing the car to a stop. It's a light grind/rub sound. Nothing disturbing - just not silent. Is this normal? Perhaps just the brakes and rotors breaking in?
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Ok, so my 1.8T hasn't really run right in quite a while, it dramatically goes into boost, then sometimes will just backfire and go into soft limp at around 5-6 psi while accelerating.
Specs:
Stock ECU
3" turbo back
TIP
FMIC
Short ram air with K&N
2.0 coils with proper NGK plugs (I cant remember exact name right now)
All evap/SAI and emissions deleted
Coolant ball deleted
Replaced:
- Crankshaft position sensor
- Camshaft position sensor
- MAF (autozone brand )
- Coilpack wire harness
- Swapped between 2 different N75's
- Piston and spring in Forge Splitter
Below is what I pulled with the vagcom cable I just got in the mail today, along with the DTC names I found from Bentley's page. I know the 411 and 441 are from the SAI/Evap delete but other than that what I should replace next?
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Monday, 07 July 2014, 17:30:49.
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55 ,56,57,75,76
[Code] ....
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I have an 03 GLI and am having a little issue. My passenger front door won't latch. The tumbler, for lack of a better word, is in the proper position and swings freely; but it never catches. If I use a screwdriver I can push it all the way back; but there's not so much as a click when it gets all the way back and just swings back out.
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I notice the door rattles a lot now, more noticeably over bumps. Also, I don't really turn my music that loud, but when it is I can hear the rattle as well. Any quick fixs for this? Or would it be easier to get the dealer to try to fix this during my 5000 mile maintenance?
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So I've had a gremlin in the front door of my wife's grey Mk6 GTI since we got it. I took it to the VW dealership only for them not to fix it. The door panel sits on the woofer in the bottom of the door and it sort of sounds like the speaker is blown, but if you pull out on the panel pocket the sound goes away so I'm pretty sure that it's the panel and not the speaker. I attempted to take off the panel and didn't read up on it first so I broke the pocket (like a friggen moron). Now I both need to problem solve the sounding speaker but also find a replacement door panel. I live in Severn, MD.
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Ok, I'm bit confused with how this remote works and how the factory set up is suppose to be.
1. Drove the car at night with light on "on"
2. Got out, turn the lights off
3. close the door
4. try to open the hatch, realized it was locked, so press the "open" button and i see my headlight turning back on?
I thought its suppose to stay off? I hate for the lights to turn on and off all the time when I press the switch.
When its suppose to turn on? I thought the light stays off when the light switch is on "off" position.
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I changed my oem clutch in my mk4 golf 2.0l with a stage 1 ecs tuning clutch kit. Lightweight flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. But since I have my clutch pedal has been less stiff then usual. I like my clutch pedal as stiff as possible but it just isn't I bled off the slave cylinder. When I was done no air was coming out but it is still way to soft for me. What should I do next??
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