I accidentally left my sons 2002 Honda Accord EX engine running overnight for about 15 hours. He drove the car and said most of the gas was gone and that the car was jerking while he was driving. Will the car be fine?
View 9 Replies2013 Accord Touring, automatic. I bought it brand new last January from the dealer. Two months ago, I went to parallel park and the entire car started violently jerking. It's done it several times since then and here's what I've gathered:
1) The car primarily jerks at low speeds 1-5 mph in both reverse and drive, primarily when parking but sometimes when I'm accelerating from 0 mph,
2) Applying the break stops all jerking, applying the gas again commences jerking
3) This happens typically in cold weather when the car is both cold and hot, but not every time I drive/park it
4) The AC/Heat "cycles" down/up (less air blowing) right before the jerking begins,
5) Typically my "Forward Collision Crash Problem" alert flashes on and then off for no apparent reason,but I can't necessarily correlate this
6) The RPMs do bounce a little bit (a notch or two) during the jerking,
7) Eco mode is on and off when this happens and
8) There are no error lights/warnings/beeping/etc. to indicate that there is anything wrong.
My best description of the jerking is that it comes from the front, center of the car. You know when you drive a manual and you don't give it enough gas as you shift and the car jerks? That's what this feels like.
I've brought it to the dealer twice and they can't recreate the problem, everything checks out as clean and they don't know of any service bulletins about it.
I have a 2009 honda accord, v6, auto, 46k. It has recently started to chug, most of the time, not always. I feel it in the gas pedal. Kind of a jerking, hesitation chug while accelerating. It only chugs between 20-40 mph, disappears after that. Someone suggested a spark plug problem, but I can't imagine it's that since it disappears after 40mph. Could it be a transmission problem?
View 9 RepliesMy car is a 99 honda accord v6 EX (coupe)It started overheating about 2-3months ago. I was driving along and the needle on the gauge was completely on hot. I was able to make it home. Ive basically been driving it this whole time with the defrost on 80 and on full blast. Which keeps it around the halfway mark between hot and cold. I had a friend change my thermostat .. didn't fix it. Still overheats. But after he did that it seems to get hotter faster now. When I am at a stoplight it gets as hot as the gauge will let it go, then when I start driving again it cools down a little.
Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
I have a 2000 honda accord. v6. 148,000 miles. For a few years now my car has been doing this thing where I start it, it shakes, then shuts off. I have to rev the engine for awhile to get it to start. I've taken it in at least 5 times and nobody can figure it out. It happens sporadically (seems to be more so when I'm running errands so starting and turning it off a lot). It may happen once every few months, maybe twice in one week. Now, I recently got an oil leak. Replaced valve cover gaskets, which I was told the main source of the leak and originally they thought the oil filter housing was leaking but it's the oil pump. Is it worth replacing the oil pump on this car, given the first problem?
View 7 RepliesMy transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
View 7 RepliesI've got an 04' accord and within the last couple weeks it started blowing warmer air but now it's hot. I've called around for a few prices to see about getting the freon replaced and everyone I've called is concerned there's a leak. We'll I've had the for 10 years doesn't the freon just run out eventually and you need to fill it up again? Am I getting scammed if I take it some place and they do a diagnostic that might be a hundred bucks just to look at it?
View 3 RepliesWe have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
Front discs and pads replaced about 10k ago and still under warranty - work done by my mechanic whom I have been patronizing for the last 8 years. When the brakes are applied at 40 MPH plus, get a low pitched "HMMMMMMMM" type of sound that goes away as the car decelerates through 40. It is sort of annoying but the brakes work perfectly fine. A mechanic that works for the shop rode with me and listened, and didn't offer much of an explanation or offer to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. In other words, he cited this as normal. Would it be advisable to get a 2nd opinion? I've never had this issue with brakes on other vehicles I've owned, especially with new brakes.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2010 Accord that started leaking power steering fluid at around 10,000 miles. In February 2011, I complained to the Honda service technician when I took the car in for an oil change about the leak. At that time, the service technician told me he did not see a leak and that I should simply continue adding power steering fluid as needed.
I took my car in for another oil change this month, now my car mileage is 46,000, and the technician informed me that the power steering fluid is linking and it is now necessary to replace the "rack" and "boots." The repair will cost about $1000. Though my car is no longer under warranty, the dealership agreed to pay for 50% of the repair. I have asked that the dealership pay for 100% of the repair, but I was told that they would not do that.
I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
View 16 RepliesMy 2005 Accord V-6 makes a howling (actually a loud whine) when started in very cold weather (e.g., below 25 degrees). The sound goes a way after a few miles driving. It appears to come from a small "pump" looking thing at the top and on the left (facing the car) of the engine, which is attached to a pulley. My mechanic - although he did not actually hear it - says it's nothing to worry about; it's just the cold.
View 3 RepliesThe A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
View 19 RepliesMy right front disc brake started making a squeaking noise at about 50,000 miles when I applied the brakes. It was on and off at first but became more frequent. It wasn't a grinding noise and it wasn't the sensors for a low pad. I changed the pads and after about 2 weeks I started getting a grinding noise when I'd apply the brakes. I checked the pads and they were fine. After a few months I replaced the pads, grinding happened again after a few weeks of wear. Within the next few months I replaced the pads again, each time trying different types. Had the rotors turned recently and again, new pads. The grinding is gone but after a few weeks the brake makes a chirping sound now when applied. They work fine in stopping the car.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Accord. Twice on long trips (~40 miles) in the rain, the car started missing badly, and the check engine light began blinking on and off. The first time, I pulled over and shut it off, restarted it, and everything was fine. A few weeks later, I took it for an oil change, and told the mechanic about it. He checked for codes, but there were none. The next time it happened (again on a rainy day on the same 40 mile route), I shut it off, turned it on, and drove straight to the dealer. He said it was 2.5 qts low on oil, and that could make it act that way. I check my oil regularly, so I was really surprised at that. It hasn’t happened again, but now I’m really obsessive about checking (and recording) oil. It’s always full, never low – except that twice, after the car has sat all day in cold weather, the dipstick was dry. I drove it home (a couple of miles), let it sit for an hour and checked the oil to find it full both times. I’m religious about changing the oil, so I doubt that there’s sludge in there…
View 8 RepliesI just had my Accord's two front lower ball joints replaced, and - amazingly - the day I got it back, the ABS would kick in when the car was braking from 10-5mph. Brought it back to the mechanic, who told me very sadly (after diagnosis) that one of the ABS axle sensors had gone bad. "Related to the repair you just did?" I asked - oh, no, of course not, these things just happen sometimes. I'm not terribly happy, and not terribly convinced, and I thought hey - what better community to bounce this off of. How easy is it to hose an ABS sensor when you're replacing ball joints?
View 6 RepliesThis is for a 2002 Honda Accord, SE 4 Cyl.
For over a year I have been getting a CEL for a misfire of Cylinders 1 and 2. I did a standard tune up, Changing the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, but to no avail. Having reached the end of my knowledge, I took it to the Honda dealership to see if they could fix it. They told me it was the ignition coil, so I replaced the coil. That didn't solve the problem so I brought it back to the dealership, which proceeded to tell me that I needed to use Honda spark plug wires and distributor cap. They replaced the wires and cap with Honda parts and told me it was fixed. On the drive home, I noticed the misfire again. Back to the dealership. 2 weeks later I finally get sick of waiting and go pick up my car. Here's the list of things they claim they tried:
Compression Check
Sea Foam
Swapping fuel injectors
Changing the distributor
After none of these things worked, I decided to take the car to another mechanic, who told me that the distrubutor and EGR valve needed replacing. They assured me that that was the problem, but after that didn't work, they still charged me to adjust the valves.
Later I tried changing the PCV valve, now losing hope that anything would work....and no, that didn't work.
Strangely enough, as winter rolled around the CEL went off, and the car misfired much less. Now summer is back, and so is the CEL...
I change my oil in my car myself and I have been doing so for a while. Just today I bought a 5 quart jug of Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5w-20 (on sale) and a Purolator PureOne filter (also on sale, and the first time I've used that particular filter. I changed my oil like I always did and put in 4.5 quarts of oil as stated by my manual, started her up and all is well.
Now, here's my dilemma. I let the car sit for a while as I waxed, and rechecked the oil and its low (a tad bit higher than the lower mark on the dipstick). I feel like my car has a bottomless oil pit. I do not want to add more oil than I need to, however I feel like if I added enough oil to bring it to the upper mark it would take the whole darn 5-quart jug, if not more. Whats going on here?! I've never seemed to notice this before.
By the way, this is for a 2002 Honda Accord 2.3 Liter engine with VTEC.
Cranks, but won't start. I spark tested 2 of the 6 cylinders and saw only 2 sparks and no more each time I attempted cranking. They were strong, good looking sparks. I spark tested with an Autocraft Ignition Tester, Part No. AC657, from Advance Auto.
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