Honda - Accord :: 2002 - ABS Kicks In When Car Was Braking From 10 - 5 Mph
Mar 22, 2011
I just had my Accord's two front lower ball joints replaced, and - amazingly - the day I got it back, the ABS would kick in when the car was braking from 10-5mph. Brought it back to the mechanic, who told me very sadly (after diagnosis) that one of the ABS axle sensors had gone bad. "Related to the repair you just did?" I asked - oh, no, of course not, these things just happen sometimes. I'm not terribly happy, and not terribly convinced, and I thought hey - what better community to bounce this off of. How easy is it to hose an ABS sensor when you're replacing ball joints?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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Two weeks ago I had to brake suddenly while driving in town and my A/C immediately stopped cooling although the fan continued to work. I drove it home and the next morning when I started my car the A/C worked fine. It was working fine until yesterday when I was driving and again had to brake suddenly to pull over after taking a wrong turn. The A/C immediately went out again. Only this time the A/C didn't ever start working correctly again.
2003 Honda Accord EX - A/C problem related to hard and sudden braking?
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I have a 2005 Auto Santa Fe and every now and again the ABS light keeps coming on and also the ABS kicks in during normal braking.
The car was serviced and all brakes changed last Aug. What may be causing the problem.
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My 2003 TrailBlazer LT (regular wheelbase) has the following codes:
- C0265
-C0281
-C0267
-C0237
The ABS light is NOT on! Every once in a while, if braking lightly, the ABS kicks in. That is the only symptom of any problems at all.
My first thought is could this be a bad ground at the EBCM or does it look like my BCM is on it's way out? I am wrong all together it the problem is something else?
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My 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
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Why does my truck seem to have mostly back brakes? When I slam up the back tires almost always chirp then the abs kicks in I haven't put a set of front brakes on it since I have had it and I've had it for 4 years....
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I accidentally left my sons 2002 Honda Accord EX engine running overnight for about 15 hours. He drove the car and said most of the gas was gone and that the car was jerking while he was driving. Will the car be fine?
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I have a 2009 Accord. Twice on long trips (~40 miles) in the rain, the car started missing badly, and the check engine light began blinking on and off. The first time, I pulled over and shut it off, restarted it, and everything was fine. A few weeks later, I took it for an oil change, and told the mechanic about it. He checked for codes, but there were none. The next time it happened (again on a rainy day on the same 40 mile route), I shut it off, turned it on, and drove straight to the dealer. He said it was 2.5 qts low on oil, and that could make it act that way. I check my oil regularly, so I was really surprised at that. It hasn’t happened again, but now I’m really obsessive about checking (and recording) oil. It’s always full, never low – except that twice, after the car has sat all day in cold weather, the dipstick was dry. I drove it home (a couple of miles), let it sit for an hour and checked the oil to find it full both times. I’m religious about changing the oil, so I doubt that there’s sludge in there…
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This is for a 2002 Honda Accord, SE 4 Cyl.
For over a year I have been getting a CEL for a misfire of Cylinders 1 and 2. I did a standard tune up, Changing the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, but to no avail. Having reached the end of my knowledge, I took it to the Honda dealership to see if they could fix it. They told me it was the ignition coil, so I replaced the coil. That didn't solve the problem so I brought it back to the dealership, which proceeded to tell me that I needed to use Honda spark plug wires and distributor cap. They replaced the wires and cap with Honda parts and told me it was fixed. On the drive home, I noticed the misfire again. Back to the dealership. 2 weeks later I finally get sick of waiting and go pick up my car. Here's the list of things they claim they tried:
Compression Check
Sea Foam
Swapping fuel injectors
Changing the distributor
After none of these things worked, I decided to take the car to another mechanic, who told me that the distrubutor and EGR valve needed replacing. They assured me that that was the problem, but after that didn't work, they still charged me to adjust the valves.
Later I tried changing the PCV valve, now losing hope that anything would work....and no, that didn't work.
Strangely enough, as winter rolled around the CEL went off, and the car misfired much less. Now summer is back, and so is the CEL...
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I change my oil in my car myself and I have been doing so for a while. Just today I bought a 5 quart jug of Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5w-20 (on sale) and a Purolator PureOne filter (also on sale, and the first time I've used that particular filter. I changed my oil like I always did and put in 4.5 quarts of oil as stated by my manual, started her up and all is well.
Now, here's my dilemma. I let the car sit for a while as I waxed, and rechecked the oil and its low (a tad bit higher than the lower mark on the dipstick). I feel like my car has a bottomless oil pit. I do not want to add more oil than I need to, however I feel like if I added enough oil to bring it to the upper mark it would take the whole darn 5-quart jug, if not more. Whats going on here?! I've never seemed to notice this before.
By the way, this is for a 2002 Honda Accord 2.3 Liter engine with VTEC.
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Cranks, but won't start. I spark tested 2 of the 6 cylinders and saw only 2 sparks and no more each time I attempted cranking. They were strong, good looking sparks. I spark tested with an Autocraft Ignition Tester, Part No. AC657, from Advance Auto.
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I had my car tuned up a month ago. The very next day, on cold start, the engine starts stuttering and the rpm got real low to the point where it almost shuts off. On more than one occasion it did shut off. If I press the gas peddle, it revs properly. I thought I'd give it some time to see if it got better, but it hasn't. Yesterday, in the middle of the day (car had been parked for 8 hours), on cold start it did it again (93 degrees outside, so it's not cold weather dependent). It stuttered when I came to the stoplight, and so I put it in park to hit the gas peddle and rev the engine to get it warmer. When I put it back into drive, it stuttered and shut off at the light. It never stuttered prior to the tuneup.
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I am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
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Honda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
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I have a 2002 honda accord dx. We have had to get it fixed a few months ago. It had something to do with the cooling system. Ran fine until recently. It ran hot. I pulled over. Let it cool. Never happened again. I watch my temperature gauge and only drive it around town.
Today, I left it running for a short time while I picked up my son to keep the air conditioner running. As I was walking out the door, I heard a loud pop and smoke started pouring out from under the hood. I ran out and turned the car off immediately. I'm freaking out! I'm letting it cool now. I haven't popped the hood yet.
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I've got a 2002 Accord with a 4-cylinder engine with 90,8xx miles. For a while now, its been pretty rough and buzzy (not as glass smooth as it once was). Nothing seems out of the ordinary and everything seems fine otherwise, but just the other day, I stopped at a red light and I couldn't feel the engine. I thought I stalled, but I looked at the gauges to see that it was indeed running, but as smooth as melted butter (It hasn't run like that since the car was new!). After making it back home, the car was back to its old rough and "buzzy" self. So, my question is: Is there anything that I can do to return the engine to its glass-smooth idle? Its been tuned up with new plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap, but (all with oem parts too). I had almost forgotten how nice and refined this car was!
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2002 Honda Accord V6 230,000+ miles----The engine is good (well good for having been driven over 230,00miles) a/c is cold, interior is good, exterior is good. Transmission, not so good. Big question is do I (well, not me personally)put in a re-built trans. and keep driving or buy a newer car. This is one of three cars I own, but it gets driven a lot
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My Accord has recently been stalling on start-up, and I'm trying to figure out if it's something I need to worry about. Here are more details:
It only happens sporadically (though more frequently recently), and only after the car is warmed up. The car starts up fine, but then a few seconds later the engine sputters and stalls. Second and third tries at starting it up are no different (still stalls). If I can get the car into gear and moving quickly enough (before it has a chance to stall), the car runs absolutely fine.
I took it to my regular mechanic and they, of course, were unable to reproduce the problem. They checked "everything" (including starter and fuel pump) and said it all tested "normal". It's otherwise running perfectly well.
My observation: the times when it stalls, it sounds/feels like the engine doesn't rev up enough to "catch" (non-technical explanation). I don't know a whole lot about cars, but this seems like a fuel pump issue, right? Maybe it's only acting up sporadically, which is why it tested normal at the shop?
An added mystery that probably doesn't have much to do with the problem, but that I find intriguing and would be perfect for Tom and Ray! 98% of the time, this happens when the car is parked in a parking garage. I can only remember 2 times that it's happened after being parked outside.
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My car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
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