I have a 2005 Auto Santa Fe and every now and again the ABS light keeps coming on and also the ABS kicks in during normal braking.
The car was serviced and all brakes changed last Aug. What may be causing the problem.
I am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
View 2 RepliesI just had my Accord's two front lower ball joints replaced, and - amazingly - the day I got it back, the ABS would kick in when the car was braking from 10-5mph. Brought it back to the mechanic, who told me very sadly (after diagnosis) that one of the ABS axle sensors had gone bad. "Related to the repair you just did?" I asked - oh, no, of course not, these things just happen sometimes. I'm not terribly happy, and not terribly convinced, and I thought hey - what better community to bounce this off of. How easy is it to hose an ABS sensor when you're replacing ball joints?
View 6 RepliesMy 2003 TrailBlazer LT (regular wheelbase) has the following codes:
- C0265
-C0281
-C0267
-C0237
The ABS light is NOT on! Every once in a while, if braking lightly, the ABS kicks in. That is the only symptom of any problems at all.
My first thought is could this be a bad ground at the EBCM or does it look like my BCM is on it's way out? I am wrong all together it the problem is something else?
I've been having ongoing issue with lack of power uphill in my 2005 2.7L Auto and noticed during recent freeway driving that when its in cruise mode the car will shift down through 3rd then into 2nd to maintain cruising speed on a steep-ish slope.
That was with adult driver me and two kids in the car so no extreme load involved.
Does car needs to be in such a low gear at 110kmh/70 mph to cope with a slope?
Why does my truck seem to have mostly back brakes? When I slam up the back tires almost always chirp then the abs kicks in I haven't put a set of front brakes on it since I have had it and I've had it for 4 years....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Santa fe that will not stop running. When the key is turned off the engine keeps running like normal. I changed the ignition switch yesterday. still have same problem.
View 21 RepliesMy 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
I just changed my stabilizer link front right side and it did not solve the single clunk noise that I hear when accelerating and braking.. although it did solve the "multi clunk noises and creaking I get that is now gone away.. but this other single clunk noise what else could it be from it does it when driving straight and there are no clunks when turning. I must add that is that I can hear it and its a low pitched clunk... and is also felt in the steering wheel.
View 2 Replies2001 Hyundai Sante Fe. When braking, I get a noise and the whole vehicle shakes. Exactly as if I were driving in snow and just slammed the brakes. The feeling & noise feels and sounds the exact same as if I were sliding...
I've replaced the master cyl originally just because today is the first day the issue lasted long enough for me to fully hear//feel the whole issue. It's normally brief.
I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
View 1 RepliesHere's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
Ive noticed while driving my 2k7 XLE 3.5L that when I brake moderately it is a very smooth transition until it lets up a little bit which gives me the feeling of losing control slightly. It is really weird to me that feeling of it "letting go" after it already was braking smoothly. When I brake hard it does NOT do that, which I find odd... Is it a normal occurrence for this particular ABS to act like that?
View 5 RepliesCar makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
[URL] ....
Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.
My 99 Ranger pulls severely to the right under Normal braking, pulling the 30 amp ABS fuse stops the pulling but the ABS light is on on the dash.
View 1 RepliesFuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
View 5 Repliesfor the last three days, I had the big red master warning light come up four times during normal braking, also "Problem" was displayed on the LCD where "Add fuel" is displayed when fuel is low. But no error code showed on the OBD reader. I searched found that it might be related to 12V battery which I replaced two years ago.
2008 with 120K miles.
Truck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.
My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
My 2009 Santa Fe with V6 runs a little under 3000 rpm at 65 mph. Is this normal? Seems a little high. No other problems with the engine.
View 6 RepliesSo my oil doesn't leak when it off it will only leak when it's at normal driving temperate it is coming from the cast piece that my oil pan (the plastic piece) is on... Where it connects to the actual motor... Any clue what it would be? BTW it is a 2011 Santa Fe
View 6 Replies