Infiniti - G35 :: 2004 - Changed Belts / Squeaking Noise When Idling With Windows Open
Feb 21, 2015
I had the belts changed on my 2004 Infiniti G35 6-Speed Sedan according to the mechanics advice (they were cracked quite a bit). Now that they're changed they make an annoying squeaking noise which is particularly awful when idling with my windows open. When I took it back, he said the pulleys need to be replaced and they are already at maximum tension. They did not squeak before the replacement. Is he right? Or did he just put in a belt that's longer than it should be?
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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Brand new car leased since Nov, 15', at this low mileage already has noise that sounds like a 40,000 mile car (maybe not even with some other quality cars). Does it sound too early?
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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When I'm driving and I open just the rear windows - I get a buffeting, choppy, shaking noise - kinda like the whop, whop of a copter blade. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat tire. Is it the cover for the cargo area?
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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I've learned I can't drive with my rear windows open because it generates this whopping noise that's so bad it hurts your ears and shakes the car a bit at highway speeds. Sounds like a helicopter sitting on top of the car. I'm thinking it's caused by the air waffling in the rear window/deck space, since it's only slightly better since I took off the rear seat headrests. It happens at speeds over about 25 mph, and is unbearable at speeds over 50. 2010 Corolla LE...
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When I first got my 2006 Lexus RX400h (LOVE the car, btw), I would unlock all the doors by clicking twice on the unlock button on the key fob, then hold it down to open the trunk.
My dad went to get something from the trunk and I gave him the same instructions. Well when he did it (we were in the middle of a rain storm) all of the windows opened and not the trunk. Now this is what happens every time.
I'm not sure what happened, but I'm really missing opening my trunk through my key fob especially when my hands are full. Why this is happening and how I can open my trunk using the key fob again?
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Any way to open the windows and the sunroof from outside of the car with the remote key? Also, is there a way to have the side mirrors fold in when locking the vehicle with the remote key?
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I have bought a new 2008 Passat about 4 months ago. about 2 months ago, this weird pressure could be felt from the inside similar to having the sunroof opened or the rear windows opened. I took it to my dealer twice and they say that they don't feel/hear anything. I went on a 200 mile trip and regretted taking the passat only 20 miles into it. the pressure/noise thing is unbearable! I seriously am thinking of crashing this thing and making my insurance switch cars. it was never like this when i got it. I would never buy a car like that! I checked to see if the tires were the problem but found nothing. i am so frustrated at the dealer and with this car that it just sits there not being driven because i can not stand driving it. Again, it makes a weird pressure/noise feeling as if the windows are opened but they aren't!
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My dad drove the RX350 to get some groceries last night and was shocked to see all the windows and moon roof was open after he came out of the store...
My guess is something was pressed against the unlock key on the remote when he was exiting the car and walk toward the supermarket entrance and triggered the all window open from remote...
Fortunately, nothing was stolen but he was shocked...I think I will have the dealer program the RX and disable this feature...
However, I was also shocked that we can only open all the windows but not close them w/ the remote...seems like a bad design...if you can open windows from the remote...you would think you can close all the windows too right??
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I have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
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My car developed an "intermittent" accelerator whistling noise coming thru one of the speakers (I think). The harder you accelerate - the louder the whistle. When idling, it sounds like an open air whirring noise. Of course every time I bring it to the shop - it stops and when I hear it it's never convenient to get to the shop!
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My passenger and back door windows won't open with the use of their switches. I can open all three with the master control. I thought the master switch was bad and replaced it. The problem persists. Are these individual switches for the passenger and back doors in series, where one goes out and none work ?
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I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
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Took the wife to work today, she has a big nail in her tire. The X started idling high at red lights, right before I dropped her off, It didn't want to change gears until about 3200 rpms. And change gears hard. About a Mile from home, X started driving normal again...
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R32 turbo had new forged internals to get rid of old set up l & changed tune 4" maf open filter I am now getting smell of fuel inside car only when I am stationary at junctions etc.
BTW walbro in line fuel pump.. vagom no faults .. + did not get this before with stock airbox with turbo set up..
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What's the best thing to put where the glass meets the rubber to stop squeaking when windows go down and up?
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I just changed out my IAC. Truck is still idling too high. When I squeeze the host to the IAC it idles down. When I unplug the IAC the truck immediately dies.
Does the IAC talk to the the Throttle position sensor? Should this be my next part to change?
2002 F250 5.4L ....
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I don't have any kids and I just noticed my V8 had child safety windows (will not roll all the way down)... is there a way to make my rear windows roll all the way down? second, any finding on the squeaking noises and rattling noises in the T-reg?
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