Dodge - Engines - Timing-belts - Pump - Neon - Belts :: 1995 - Squeaking Noise - Blown Timing Belt?
Mar 23, 2011
I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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I drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
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I have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
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So I have multiple issues that all seem to stem from a power steering leak. According to the dealership, the PS pump is leaking fluid onto the serpentine and timing belts causing them to swell. This in turn has something to do with the AC compressor not working but they wouldn't give me details. When I looked at the clutch wheels on the AC compressor, there seems to be a good amount of rust in between the two wheels. I can't say that I trust the dealership because the original owner was bought out by a larger group that is known to just say "replace everything". I usually do most of my own work on my 95 Tacoma, so I'm no stranger to import v6 motors.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Neon 2.0 SOHC that was over heating. I told my daughter not to drive it until I could work on it and find and fix the problem. Well, we all know how kids are. She continued to drive it and it eventually it broke down. Now here's what I have done. I found that the water pump bearing went bad and that is why it was over heating. This also caused the timing belt to break.
I replaced the water pump and put a timing belt on it. I only have compression in two cylinders and it won't start. I followed the instructions for installing the timing belt from the book. I think they may be wrong. What I need to know is how exactly to set the crank and cam before I install the timing belt. Looking for step by step instructions on how to set the crank and cam and install the belt?
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
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The timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
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I have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
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I have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
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So I had oil leaking out of my starter so I ended up pulling it and replacing a gasket behind the flywheel... Now the car didn't run because the timing was off by a lot so I jumped a few teeth on the timing chain. Now I have a bunch of white smoke and the car lacks power. It will stall going reverse out of my driveway unless I rev it high. The engine itself has less then 5k miles on it as it's rebuild so I don't think it's a head gasket if it was running fine before I pulled the flywheel off. The idle sounds fine and feels smooth but puffs white smoke. I used a timing gun and adjusted it, and seems on point but now I'm stumped. What could it be? 1972 Honda n600...
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I have a 2002 Intrepid ES with a 3.5L V-6 with 264,000 miles on it. I have recently had the timing belt and water pump changed. Three weeks later I am driving home and the temperature gauge starts climbing. This is the first time this car has ever overheated. Well, I call my buddy who is a certified mechanic and he tows the car to his shop. I have him check the water pump to make sure it hasn't prematurely failed. He tears the front of the engine down and inspects the pump. He finds nothing wrong with the pump but he discovers the timing belt tensioner has failed and it has caused the engine to jump time, I tell him to go ahead and replace the tensioner.
After he put the engine back together he started it and it ran cool while it was sitting at idle for about 45 minutes. Then he took it for a test drive and it overheated again. He checks the thermostat and finds that it has also failed; he replaces that also, still overheating. New radiator hoses, upper and lower, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and it still overheats. He put dye into the coolant to check for a blown head gasket and it tested negative for a blown gasket. The exhaust doesn’t smell of burning coolant or producing white smoke. My mechanic friend and I both have run out of solutions…
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
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Brand new car leased since Nov, 15', at this low mileage already has noise that sounds like a 40,000 mile car (maybe not even with some other quality cars). Does it sound too early?
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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I had the belts changed on my 2004 Infiniti G35 6-Speed Sedan according to the mechanics advice (they were cracked quite a bit). Now that they're changed they make an annoying squeaking noise which is particularly awful when idling with my windows open. When I took it back, he said the pulleys need to be replaced and they are already at maximum tension. They did not squeak before the replacement. Is he right? Or did he just put in a belt that's longer than it should be?
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We just bought a 1995 Toyota 4Runner that has 195,000 miles. We bought it for a 4wd vehicle to take over the passes and go hunting, but we have been driving it regularly because we like it. I read in the manual that under heavy idling conditions the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles but it does not say for regular driving. The previous owners had work done on the timing belt at 96,000 miles.
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