Honda - Timing-belts :: 1972 - Bunch Of White Smoke And Car Lacks Power
May 16, 2016
So I had oil leaking out of my starter so I ended up pulling it and replacing a gasket behind the flywheel... Now the car didn't run because the timing was off by a lot so I jumped a few teeth on the timing chain. Now I have a bunch of white smoke and the car lacks power. It will stall going reverse out of my driveway unless I rev it high. The engine itself has less then 5k miles on it as it's rebuild so I don't think it's a head gasket if it was running fine before I pulled the flywheel off. The idle sounds fine and feels smooth but puffs white smoke. I used a timing gun and adjusted it, and seems on point but now I'm stumped. What could it be? 1972 Honda n600...
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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I have a 2006 f350 6.0l. I was driving home from work and all of a sudden I had no gas pedal. It would stumble and die with a bunch of white smoke out the tail. It also is not using the turbo at all no boost. I have a edge monitor and the engine codes it's kicking out are in the picture below. I have a warranty but the dealership that we bought it from and the closet ford dealer is 30-40 mins away and they don't currently have a diesel mechanic to work on it so I would have to go almost 1hr 20 mins to get to the next dealer. Will it hurt it to drive it that far?
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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So I have multiple issues that all seem to stem from a power steering leak. According to the dealership, the PS pump is leaking fluid onto the serpentine and timing belts causing them to swell. This in turn has something to do with the AC compressor not working but they wouldn't give me details. When I looked at the clutch wheels on the AC compressor, there seems to be a good amount of rust in between the two wheels. I can't say that I trust the dealership because the original owner was bought out by a larger group that is known to just say "replace everything". I usually do most of my own work on my 95 Tacoma, so I'm no stranger to import v6 motors.
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It's a 96 Honda Accord Ex. Yesterday afternoon, all of a sudden white smoke started coming out from the right side of the front of my car. I immediately pulled over and when I did, I could smell nothing but burnt or burning rubber! My car was overheating for some reason too, so I let it cool down for about an hour before inspecting anything. I drove into a residential neighborhood: in the process, my car was jerking forward, as if the engine was forcing itself to stay on, but not having the power.
When I finally was able to look under the hood, I saw that the hose that sucked coolant/anti-freeze out of the reserve to the side had melted off somehow, and my radiator wasn't able to pull anti-freeze out of the reserve. So I noted that I needed to replace that hose immediately. By this time, everything was closed in town, so I'm able to drive it home and let it sit overnight, to completely cool down. I added some coolant directly into the radiator this morning, in hopes that it would make it a little better. I started my car shortly after, and it did. But it has the same jerky motion when driving, as if it's about to cut off on me again.
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I've got White smoke coming out of my tail pipe of my 94 Honda Passport and I've checked the oil on it and its not milky like I feared it would be. I had some over heating issues after replacing the water pump and all the timing belts. Ran okay for about 2 days, 30 mile drives those days. Replaced some old hoses but it still overheats. Was told by a friend I could be losing coolant from the old radiator cap, replaced it and now I hear a gurgling outta my reserve coolant whenever I remove the cap; which I've never heard before. I don't know much about cars besides your general oil changes and flat tires.
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So just a few days ago my car started puffing out white smoke, not all the time, but every so often. I noticed last month, that when i am sitting still, my temperature gauge is slowly moving up, but when i would start moving, the gauge would go back down. I know my cooling fan is working, because when i would turn the car off, i can hear it going. My car has been drinking oil and coolant like crazy, it has hard starts sometimes, it never runs boiling hot, but it has gotten right above the middle line. Is this a "bad" head or a "blown" head? Its still driveable, i only need this car to last me through may and i am getting another one in june, so if the engine goes by then, i dont really care, the car has 253k miles on it, its ready to retire anytime now. How to make it last one more month? Does this sound like an engine head problem?
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My daughter has a 1993 Honda Civic, which was running perfectly until yesterday. Until she mistakenly filled the engine with too much oil. She then drove it until a large amount of white smoke started belching from her tailpipe. All seals and gasket seem to be intact. I drained the oil and fill it to proper levels, but still have a large amount of smoke coming out of the pipe. I check the radiator to ensure that no oil/water mixture, but it was a huge cloud of smoke.....is this the end for this car or is there still hope.
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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The timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
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Best truck I ever had but around 200k would occasionally blow a bunch of smoke when pulling a heavy load.
My 2000 f 350 xlt triton v8 has done the same thing a couple times (about 200k miles).
The (cough) "truck expert" at my local dealer has never seen that before but its happened in 2 different trucks for me. It never caused a problem other than scaring me.
I sold the 02 last year when i got a 2011 f 250--it was 12 years and 300k miles old and never was hospitalized except for a fuel pump due to my negligence of filter.
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I bought a 2004 power stroke with 100k miles, ran well for 15k miles then started having low power for first few minutes to no power, regular oil changes and fuel filters at 5k, checked FICM 48v KOEO , 48v cranking, new batteries just in case. Oil pressure when cranking at 50% of gauge , even crank cycle will jump when trying to fire, no loss of coolant, block heater working, it did start a few a few times and blew white smoke until warm then full power but the last 2 times I did get it to start it ran for less than 1 minute and died could not restart.
Fresh fuel additive in both fuel and oil for stickshion, have read hundreds of posts but not seeing similar problems no codes. With key cycle 120 amp draw on passengers battery for approx 25 seconds 48 amp on right battery glow plugs good due to the amp draw? So I think my FICM is good, good oil pressure cranking, the oil pump should be good, ICP good? Because of gauge coming up? Everything I read says black smoke for EGR soot issues. Not sure where to look.
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I have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
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I have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
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I drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
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it's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
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I went out to the store today all was fine came back out and started driving got 2 miles down the road to a red light and the truck about stalled no power it doesn't smoke at idle but revved up it blows black and some white and the truck shakes. I am thinking its stiction or bad FICM????
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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