I'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
View 14 RepliesEverything might be a slight exaggeration. But fuse 14 covers Backup lamp and day time running lights relay coil, A/C Pressure Switch, Redundant Speed Control, Heated PCV (5.4L), Trailer Tow back-up lamps, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror.
This is a 2006. 4.6L V8, SCREW. I don't have reverse park aid. When the fuse blows there is a loud screeching noise from under the hood. Can't identify it because the fuse wont go while I am sitting idling in the driveway. The parking break i9ndicator comes on, the ABS indicator comes on, Cruise control goes away and the A/C quits cooling but still blows. I assume EC Mirror means Electronic Compass Mirror. So I need to figure out where the short is.
I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
View 6 RepliesI just changed brake pads front and rear. My light was on indicating need for such. After changing i figured light would reset and turn off. Not the case. How do i reset the light? Was there something i needed to do to sensor when pads changed?
View 5 RepliesHaving issues with brake noise when only in reverse? I have extremely loud break noise only when I reverse out. Could this just mean I need to get a break change?
View 14 RepliesI recently replaced my pads and rotors and when I pulled everything out there were no shims? is that ok run without shims? my rotors were warped bad and I'm wondering if that was part of the cause? my pads had plenty off life left but I changed them anyways? Doing the rear to since I still feel a light wobble when on real smooth pavement...
View 5 RepliesMy brake pads been rattling around whenever i hit the brake slowly. I think its the front one. My car is 160k miles and still using the original brake hardware kit. Will the new one fix this annoying rattle? I just cant see how a new piece of metal will stop the pads to move around.
View 5 RepliesI own a 2008 Hyundai Elantra SLX manual which has made about 30000 km. I had no trouble with my car until recently. I hear a squeaking/screeching noise from the engine when it is on and the noise disappears when the clutch is touched or slightly pressed. The noise level goes up when the car is in motion and it increases with the speed. My mechanic thinks the noise is due to some kind metal-metal contact without any lubrication.
View 2 RepliesI bought Akebono cermaic pads for my GS 350 AWD which I thought were high quality good fitment pads as they even advertise them on tirerack. Now I am not really impressed. After about a month every time I pull out of my garage in the morning they click and squeal (squeak).
The scenario: After I come home from work at night I pull into my driveway and park in the garage. The pads are already seated in the forward position from driveing forward and parking. Then in the morning I go and back up in reverse to pull out, I tap the brakes to stop and shift into drive to pull forward; at the moment I depress the break pedal the two front rotors simultaneously click and sometimes squeal. Sometimes when I get in my car at the transit center in front of everyone this happens.
Is there a shim kit or something I can add to the brake pads to sit in between the pads and rotors to get them to stop moving. I know that there not moving a lot but whatever play they have is causing me brake pad buyers remorse.
I went with these Akebono ceramic because they dust much less then stock semi-metallic pads. Becuase I had them on my Audi and they didnt dust nearly as much as the stock set. But once and while they too would click in this situation but nearly as much as now in my Lex.
I have a 2006 Lexus is350 that has the rather terrible high metallic oem brake pads. The rotors and pads are in great condition, however they produce the most horrific ear piercing screech that can be heard for miles and I've even had people get out of their cars at stop lights to tell me my brakes are really bad. Like I didn't know... So, I've been researching replacement parts while I suck up the fact that I'm probably going to be dropping hundreds of dollars on a cosmetic issue, but it's really so terrible I think I may have to break up with my car if I don't fix it soon.
I've pretty much decided on not skimping, because from all that I've read it seems that given the known issues with the IS line's brakes they really need high quality ceramic and low dust pads. I've been reading a lot of good things about ebc redstuff pads, as well as some good things about akebono premium pads. I also am really confused about what to look for in a rotor.
Lastly, should I do the replacement myself? I'm kind of a novice at diy car repair, in my old (86) volvo I did most of the maintenance and repair myself, but I never had to do brakes or any of the other big things. Just littler things like power steering fluid reservoir, throttle hose, water pump and a few other things. Would I be in over my head replacing my brakes myself? They are just so vital it freaks me out a little bit if I don't do it right things will go terribly for me...
Lately I changed my front brake rotor and the new brake pad. However, When I doing back forward with applying light brake. I can hear "gara gara" noise from the front brake. Sounds like two steel material hiting each other.
Also, there is a different noise comes out when I releasing the brake after local stop. (red light stop or stop sign). I ask the mechanic when I doing the oil change. He checked and said my brake just are fine.
Probably it needs time for the pad break down with the new rotor. I used the Posi ceramic brake pads with the come with shim.
Second time my Tiggy is going back - first time I was told to speed up to 50 or 60 MPH and slam on the brakes and that appeared to work for a while, but now, I feel like the neighbors are going to file a noise complaint on my brakes!
There was mention of a TSB - just wanting to see how to be able to get that number and if there was any other solution, minus the replacement of pads as they have plenty of meat on them still.
2006 GS430 110K miles. Did Front brake pad change by myself. Now ABS , brake warning lamps come on.
Bring it to Lexus dealer. They found 3 code on it. C1203, C1336, C1345
After performed the Zero Point Calibration, the DTC C1345 remains.
I felt so bad. They want to charged me another $185 in order to find out the problem after I have paid $130. But i am out of pocket. So drive car back to home. I don't think i did anything wrong while changing brake pad. Just remove the caliper and push the piston back.
Detail of the Code:
C1203 engine control system communication fault
C1336 zero point calibration Yaw rate sensor undone
C1345 Linear valve offset not learned.
OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
View 3 RepliesLooking for instructions on how to replace emergency brake pads on a 2003 F250 2-wheel drive Ford truck?
View 11 RepliesI know on some cars and trucks you need a special tools to push the caliper back in. i just use a large c clamp to do the job. Question do i need any special tools to replace the front brakes pads?
View 7 RepliesI changed my front rotor and brake pad with the oem parts last week. However, it has noise come out everytime when I touch the brake. Is it normal? Or does it need times for break down? Or I did something wrong in installing that cost the noise?
View 13 RepliesI replace the frond brake pads. Press the piston caliper using a c- clamp. When my brake job is done, start the engine, pump the brake now the yellow light come on.
View 4 RepliesI took my R to a local mechanic to have my rotors turned and my brake pads replaced (RedStuff). A couple of days later, I noticed a loud noise coming from my front passenger wheel well when I was driving, and the pitch changed when I hit my brakes. It appears that the anti-rattle spring was not reinstalled properly because it has fallen in between my caliper and rotor, causing damage to the rotor and my aftermarket wheels. Since I'm not much of a DIYer, I wanted to get your opinion on the situation and how I should approach things with my mechanic. How hard is it to properly install the anti-rattle spring?
View 7 RepliesI've been hearing a loud screech on occasion when starting the engine. For a while, I was not able to isolate it and thought it may have been the HVAC fan bearing or something, because it sounded internal. It hasn't happened overtime, but often enough. The other day, the door was open when I hit the starter and it's loud as H3!!. It'd without a doubt external and seems to taper of rather quickly after the engine starts. At this time, I'm pretty sure it's the starter, but may be belt tensioner.
View 6 RepliesI have a lot of fun and satisfaction working on my GX and noticed that the rear brake pads soon will need to be replaced. I know how to take off the front rotors by putting some DW-40 and using a rubber mallet to get them off. However because of the parking brake, I don't know how to get the rotor out so I can resurface it, which at this point don't look that bad anyway. How to get the rear rotors off? I have to do my wife's ES350 too so I figure I'll do mine first then hers.
View 14 Replies