Civic - Honda :: 2010 - Screeching / Grinding Noise From Driver Side Front Wheel - Faulty Brake Pads
Dec 28, 2011
I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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When I slam on my brakes there is a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel and the smell of rubber. Also when I do a u-turn the same thing happens. I own a 1999 Honda accord v6....
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2008 Honda Civic LX. The car has approximately 37,000 miles on it, most of which are highway miles. I live about 400 miles from home and thus, most of those miles have been accumulated from the 4 years of me driving back and forth to school during breaks, etc.
Recently, I've noticed a slight squeak from the front driver's side wheel. It's rhythmic with the rotation of the car and is only audible with the window down (you can't hear it when the window is up). It's most prevalent at really slow speeds, when the car is just rolling forward and then dissipates as I accelerate.
I just had it in for service about two months ago, the usual stuff: I had the oil changed and the tires rotated at the local Honda dealership. I still have the inspection paperwork they did on it and everything checks out. The brakes were shown to be just fine (7mm on the front two) and it's also not coming from the engine itself, thus ruling out the belt, etc.
To make things even more complicated the noise comes and goes. Last night I drove around trying to isolate it but found no consistency. It started right away as I drove away from my apartment, but then randomly went away only to reappear again, this time barely audible as I parked.
Other details: I park the car outside, and I live up in Northern Minnesota. It's gotten cold recently, and with the wind we get up here the dust really gets kicked up. The noise just started appearing last weekend as well.
I've done some preliminary research, and would hope that after 37,000 miles the car's front bearing isn't going bad. My game plan for today was to get it washed, in case there's some build up on the wheel, and then try and spray it with 4D-40.
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic that was making noise on the front passenger side wheel and what sounded like the front driver side strut clanging (bottoming out) when I hit a bump, sharp right turn heading down hill, or hit a pot hole (small or large). I brought it in to a mechanic to diagnose the issue. They told me I had a bad wheel bearing and also needed new struts. They quoted me a price on parts and labor that I thought was too high, so I checked a few other mechanics to make sure that I needed the work and try to get a better quote. All said the same work needed to be done, so I eventually had them repaired.
My car seems to ride better and I don't hear the noise from the front passenger side wheel anymore or the noise from the front driver side strut, however, there is now a clunking like sound coming from the front suspension (left and right sides). It sounds kind of like something might be loose. I can hear it over slight bumps, and when turning whether I'm going slow or even coming out of a parked spot.
Is there something else that may need repair after having all this other work done? Have I caused a "needed repair chain reaction" or something?
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My wife's car has a grinding type noise (like a key being burnished on a grinding wheel, but lower in pitch). We've had our regular mechanic check the braking system and he finds no irregularities and also says that he didn't see any loose items underneath the engine area. The sound wasn't one of the ones on your excellent 'noises' list, however. The noise comes from the driver side at the front of the car. The car is 2002 Honda Accord LX with 135,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced under warranty at 70,000 miles.
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My '98 Honda Civic hatch is making a rubbing or grinding type noise that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel. It only happens when I'm making a speedy left turn and is made worse when there's lots of weight in the back seat. My boyfriend who mostly knows what he's doing checked the wheel for play and any grinding of the wheel bearings and he thinks the bearings are fine. We also checked around the wheel for foreign objects and any obvious issues i.e. pieces of the car hanging off.
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My own this Honda Odyssey since 2008. I found this strange problem when I drove it from Tuscon to Phoenix during a Windy day, it was making kind of Howling Screeching noise at the Drivers window. then it went away. Then I realized it happens only when the Wind is blowing at a specific Angle and when the Van is at some high speed.
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 46,000 miles on it. I purchased the car "certified used" about 1 1/1 years ago. For the past several months I've been experiencing a grinding/crunching noise when I apply the brake in reverse. I've taken it to a Honda dealer and they more or less told me that it sounds like something could have been wrong with the brakes. They ended up telling me they couldn't find anything wrong and that my brakes are fine. I've called the dealer to see if they could look at it again, but now my car isn't under warranty and they'll charge me to look at it. What could be causing this noise? At this point in time it's more annoying than anything - I'm afraid if I let it go it might end up hurting something in the long run.
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic and just recently, when the car turns right, a grinding sound emanates from the wheel.It sounds like the break pads rubbing up against the disk but this only happens on turns or if I stop, and put the car in reverse briefly.Could this be an issue with the calipers or would this likely be a wore out wheel bearing?I have heard a faint whistle coming from the tire when driving down the freeway but that is also intermittent and I don't hear the occasional whirring sound typical of a worn out bearing.I'll pull the wheel off today and check it out but I thought I'd bring it up and see what the group thinks.
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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I'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
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My 1999 Honda Civic has a leak where the plastic meets the rug by the drivers side floor. It is a about 7-9" from where the driver door opens. It only happens when it rains. I tested the moon roof drain hoses. They work fine. What is causing this?
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About 6 weeks ago I noticed a noise coming from the front driver side wheel area. We had just gotten the tire rotated and once at freeway speed it was like a squealing noise, just like when you have worn brakes. Since then the squealing noise is gone and now it's a faint (hard to describe over text) "whomp whomp" noise as if I have off-road tires. I notice it more on freeways I supposed because it's a smoother straighter surface. On a particular right bending street by our house it's louder. What it might be? Car has 36k miles.
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I have a 2008 Honda Civic with about 50K on it. I'm hearing a sporadic metallic noise from front left wheel. Noise goes away when braking.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport and after a brake job I noticed that while under braking at slow speed there would be a grinding sound on the front left. I replaced the brakes and wheel bearings the first time. After a while I ended up replacing the caliper itself but it still grinds. I don't notice any wheel shaking, pulling and it hasn't locked up although once I did notice a some smoke under hard braking but only once. I also don't hear any grinding while not braking.
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Had my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
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I've got this 02 Nissan Altima 126,000 miles. I did a front brake job on my self, new rotors and ceramic pads. Immediately after the brake job, I started hearing this horrible grinding noise when weight is shifted to the driver side. It happens when I take apply the brakes or make a right turn. When making a right turn I don't need to apply brakes to hear it. I can sometimes hear it faintly when driving normally.
I took it to my mechanic. He first inspected my brake job, disassembled the rotors and pads, applied brake grease, and reassembled everything. The problem continued. He lifted the car, and had me get in, put it in gear, accelerate, then applied brake, no noise. There is no sign of anything rubbing or grinding in the wheel assembly.
After inspecting the tie rods ends, he replaced the inner and outer on both sides. No Luck. He then replace the ceramic brake pads with regular pads which has reduced the noise but it is still there. I asked around and two other mechanics have suggested the wheel bearings, my mechanic believes this is unlikely.
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I noticed while driving my car there was a unusual rumble or grinding sound coming from my drivers side front wheel well. I get out and look I see a bunch of Fluid all over my wheel well. I look around turn my wheel around and see this fluids all on my rotors and suspension. Ive noticed couple weeks back the boots on the struts were ripped in two pieces from deteriorating or dry rotting (this was on both sides) and ive also been hearing some odd squeaking sound for over 15k miles every once in a while going over big bumps or train tracks. Struts go out at only 80k miles on their corolla? Yeah struts do usually lose their life around 60-80k miles but I've never seen them leak around that many miles. Is this a common issue?
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic Si with a clicking noise that appears to be emanating from the front passenger side. It appears to be "rotational" in nature. This noise is very similar to that one might hear when a CV joint is going out but it's heard when going forward. My mechanic (whom I trust) has been unable to fix this problem. Over the course of approximately 4 months they've:
1. Repacked the wheel bearings on both front wheels.
2. Replaced the strut mount
3. Replaced the carrier bearing with a used one.
4. Verified that all brakes are tight and working properly, and 5. Replaced the axle 4 times with both new and rebuilt versions.
Some things I've noticed:
1. The noise might not appear until the car is warmed up a bit, that is, driven 10 to 20 miles
2. It goes away when I apply the brakes but comes back immediately.
3. It occurs even when the engine is turned off and I'm coasting down a slight slope. My mechanic is unsure how to proceed and the noise is driving me crazy.
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My wife reported that her 2010 Civic LX sedan sometimes made a noise in the front, like cutting sheet metal with an electric saw. I have not heard it myself during several times I drove it. What could be the possible causes?
I plan to drive it some more until I hear the noise. What specific info should I note for mechanic to diagnose the problem correctly?
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