Civic - Honda :: 2007 - Grinding / Crunching Noise When Apply The Brake In Reverse


Aug 29, 2012

I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 46,000 miles on it. I purchased the car "certified used" about 1 1/1 years ago. For the past several months I've been experiencing a grinding/crunching noise when I apply the brake in reverse. I've taken it to a Honda dealer and they more or less told me that it sounds like something could have been wrong with the brakes. They ended up telling me they couldn't find anything wrong and that my brakes are fine. I've called the dealer to see if they could look at it again, but now my car isn't under warranty and they'll charge me to look at it. What could be causing this noise? At this point in time it's more annoying than anything - I'm afraid if I let it go it might end up hurting something in the long run.

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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.

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I am guessing my brake pads are going but figured I'd check with the forum first. What does it mean when you press down and about 3/4 of the way you start hearing this grinding noise almost like two pieces of iron are grinding across eachother?

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My '98 Honda Civic hatch is making a rubbing or grinding type noise that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel. It only happens when I'm making a speedy left turn and is made worse when there's lots of weight in the back seat. My boyfriend who mostly knows what he's doing checked the wheel for play and any grinding of the wheel bearings and he thinks the bearings are fine. We also checked around the wheel for foreign objects and any obvious issues i.e. pieces of the car hanging off.

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My 2011 Honda Civic makes a grinding / squeaking sort of noise when I start it after it has been sitting out in the rain - either for several hours or overnight. The noise seems a bit like the noise when you crank the car but the engine doesn't start. It happens after rain or a snow, so it would seem that moisture is getting into a place it shouldn't. The dealership checked it out and couldn't find anything wrong or anything that would prevent it from starting. They also told me that this noise might well go away after the first oil change - that the additives in the oil now are suppose to seal things.

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I bought a 2012 honda civic HF, now has 1000 miles. I hear a clunk when I release the pedal. I heard the same noise on another car that was on the dealer's lot. The dealership has not been useful with fixing this issue; they said the clunk is normal. Honda has not been all that supportive. What is making this sound and what can I do about this?

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Prius (2004-09) :: Code P0A92 Accompanied With Grinding / Crunching Noise

2008 Prius with 105k miles was throwing code (P0A92) and had accompanying grinding/crunching noise. Intermittently, The HV battery would drain down and the car would have difficulty starting. The car was stranded in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in October after extended use of the A/C, and was left at a friend's house until February.

After weeks of arguments with local Toyota dealerships, who refused to listen to Toyota's national service representatives and demanded that we purchase a replacement battery for $3,000, I purchased and installed a HybridAutomotive grid charger. The Prius started and drove, but lost power about 10 miles into the drive back. Being in a hurry, we resolved to return with a trailer and tow the car back to my shop.

A replacement, low-miles transmission was installed per directions in the FSM. There was some trouble getting the inverter pump to bleed (I ended up taking off the return hose & pouring coolant backwards through the pump), and I had to swap in a spare 12v battery due to the old one being discharged. The car showed codes C0205 and C0200 (left front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction, right front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction), but no other issues.

About two weeks and 3,000 miles into the transmission swap, the battery I'd swapped in would no longer fire up the computer. A test showed the battery I'd swapped in (which I purchased in 2005) was only outputting 300 CCAs (out of a rated ~1,000). The Prius accessory battery was charged and reinstalled. The battery started the car, but would often need to be charged overnight in order to start the car (even though it would pass voltage and CCA tests). When the car won't start, attempting to jump it off another car doesn't work, and the battery had given readings as low as 10.5 volts, indicating a bad cell.

Yesterday, I had the car's owner run the in-car test procedure. Voltage was 12.3 without load, 12.0 with load. The third test could not be completed because the car shuts down. As the voltages were slightly low, the battery was replaced under warranty, but the car is exhibiting the same symptoms with the new battery. I'm now suspecting a bad inverter and/or failed inverter pump.

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A mechanic recently replaced the pads of the front brakes. After the service, the break makes squeaking noise when I release the break pedal. According to the mechanic, it is normal, and I better ignore the noise. Is it true?

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My 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid has recently taken to beeping when I brake, and the brake light flashes briefly. Doesn't occur all the time; more like intermittent and both the beeping and the light goes off in a matter of seconds. I've been trying to keep an eye on when it happens and I think it happens more frequently when I first start the car.

Took it to a car dealer who said it's the master brake cylinder and the car is leaking brake fluids. They even have to top it off before my husband drove it out of the service center. We of course have not noted any drips in the garage, and have been monitoring the brake fluids and after 3 weeks have not noticed any lost brake fluids. The tank is full.

To replace the master brake cylinder and some miscellaneous repairs such as air filters. It seems to me that if we are leaking brake fluids there should be a drop in the level of fluids in the tank. What to check and perhaps who else besides the dealer to take the car to for more diagnostic testing?

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Civic - Honda :: 2007 - Noise On Passenger Side And Near The Back?

I get a rub sound when I am only going about 5 miles an hour and usually when turning left. I sounds like it is coming from somewhere on the passenger side and near the back. It makes this sound only once in awhile. Sounds like a body rub kind of sound. I have newer tires and they look fine and my shocks appear to be ok. I don't see anything wedged up under there either. This car only has about 88,000 miles on it and is in nice condition best I can tell. It is a 2007 Honda ex sedan.

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Civic - Honda :: 2007 - Popping Clicking Noise From Front End While Turning

ok I have a 07 civic with 80k, which I bought used, it seems when i turn the wheel more so to the left at slow speeds like parking or pulling out etc I hear a popping and or clicking noise from the front end it doesnt always happen, but happens enough I took it to my dealer to have everthing checked before a rd trip they told me the boots and all are fine but the joins could be binding, but that its safe to drive and doesnt need to be replaced.

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I have a dry metal on metal squawk noise when I reverse, I have taken it to a VW dealer, and they say "there is nothing wrong", or that they "cannot find anything". The noise is not constant, just when I apply the brakes in reverse.

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I took my 2007 (manual!) Honda Civic LX to a local car shop last Friday because it wanted its oil change, oil filter change, tire rotation, and spark plugs etc. checked. When I got the car back, I drove it around for a little while and noticed a noise that is periodic and speed-dependent -- as in, the frequency goes up when I am going faster and slows down when I am going slower.

I've since checked the air pressure and while one tire was a little low, the tires are all at the right pressure now, and the noise hasn't gone away. I also feel like there is more vibration in the steering wheel now than there used to be. I think the sound is coming from the front driver's side, but I'm not sure about that.

Obviously I should take it to the car shop and give the guys the what for, right? But what should I be asking them about? What could have happened? It also happens to be the case that on the 4th of July, someone backed into the front of my car with a moving truck and a couple of parts on the front of the car needed to be replaced. But I had

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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE with just under 51,000 miles on it. Every time I put the car into reverse and accelerate to apprx. 2-4 MPH then apply the brakes, I hear a loud popping noise, and it sounds like it is coming from the passenger front wheel. Slight noise from the drivers front as well. This doesn't happen in Drive, only in reverse at a low rate of speed. My father and I have taken the front wheels off and tested it, seems to be a motor mount, curious if this seems rational or common in a newer car.

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Civic - Honda :: 1983 - Grinding / Squeaking Accompanied With 5mpg Drop

There is a grinding/squeaking noise coming from what sounds like the front driver side wheel area. It is not constant... the interval between each occurrence is relative to vehicle speed. When moving slowly, like in a neighborhood, the gap is about a ½ second. The gap lessens til I hit ±65mph, when each occurrence runs into the next and the sound is pretty constant. The 10 fill-ups before this started I averaged 42.3mpg, my last 2 fill-ups average to 37.6mpg...Oh, there is no audible sound when the car is on a lift...

At first I thought a dragging brake but there is no change in the sound when the breaks are applied...I bled the lines anyway...no change.I thought CV joint, but, from what I've read, the tell-tell clicking and worsening under heavy cornering is not present.Maybe a wheel bearing? I've done the simple bearing test of trying to wiggle the wheel left-to-right & top-to-bottom...no movement.

By the way, this is a manual transmission and the sound is present whether in gear or in neutral or coasting with clutch depressed.

One more thing I should mention, and this might be important... my first poor mpg result coincided with me disintegrating a rod bearing...(low oil) I did replace the bearing with the appropriate size. I measured the crank journal with a micrometer and it still seemed to be right at the factory specs. There were no scores or gouges in the journal. (As soon as I heard the loud ticking associated with a bad rod bearing I shut the car off and pushed it to work where we have a lift. Luckily it was only about a mile and was pretty flat...it doesn't hurt that the car only weighs 1,800 lbs. either.) Anyway, I reassembled the bottom end, torqued the rod cap according to the factory service manual, torqued the oil pump and the oil pan, added new oil and started it up. It ran, and still run, nice and smooth.

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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....

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